I have an Audiolab 8200CDQ. The display started intermittently going out then it stopped receiving inputs from the remote and front panel. Finally it just shut down all together. The exact same problem happened about a year ago and I took to an Audiolab certified tech. It worked flawlessly for about a month then the issues creeped up again. I opened the unit to see if I could see anything obvious and there are two caps in what appears to be the main power supply that are bulging slightly on top. First question....is this possibly the issue? Second question, can I replace these with caps of the same voltage and mf but lower ESR, higher ripple current and higher temperature/hours. My thought was, if I'm going to change out these caps I'd like something more durable so I don't have to do this again.
PS- I realize the info is a little vague here. I can provide pictures if needed.
Thanks!
PS- I realize the info is a little vague here. I can provide pictures if needed.
Thanks!
There are lots of caps, so they're probably all cheap crap. Buy only a name brand from a major distributor.
Lower ESR, 105C, and higher voltage would all be good. Make sure the leads and spacing will fit the pcb.
Replace all caps in that group at once, and maybe the lid can stay on for a while.
https://www.hifishock.org/galleries/electronics/audiolab/source/cd-player/8200cdq-1-audiolab.jpg
Lower ESR, 105C, and higher voltage would all be good. Make sure the leads and spacing will fit the pcb.
Replace all caps in that group at once, and maybe the lid can stay on for a while.
https://www.hifishock.org/galleries/electronics/audiolab/source/cd-player/8200cdq-1-audiolab.jpg
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Thanks rayma. In your image it’s the 2 right most caps in the second row from the bottom (which is the front of the unit). I’m not sure if I should replace those two rows (7 caps) or those plus the 4 on the other side of the transistor. Ah what the hell.. I’ll just do all 11.
Thanks Jon. I was going to replace the swollen caps in the power supply only and was advised to replace the whole bank. They're fairly large and I'm pretty good with an iron so.... should be okay. (Whats the worst that can happen?
)I'll look into the dry joints on the connector. Whats the fix here...dielectric grease?
Sandwiching heatsinks and electrolytic capacitors, and no sign of a fan, makes for a poorly designed amp unless they have somehow managed the thermals surreptitiously.
I'd strongly suggest adding more ventilation apertures than are visible, and a fan if at all possible, and not hiding the amp in a cupboard. Even if you use 105degC, high ripple current, long lifetime caps, and can get them in the same diameter, they will still stew.
The other method is to thermally connect to the heatsinks and transfer the heat out of the enclosure.
I'd strongly suggest adding more ventilation apertures than are visible, and a fan if at all possible, and not hiding the amp in a cupboard. Even if you use 105degC, high ripple current, long lifetime caps, and can get them in the same diameter, they will still stew.
The other method is to thermally connect to the heatsinks and transfer the heat out of the enclosure.
The heatsinks actually appear to be in contact with the top plate of the unit. That said...it does get hot. It's Class A so..... I thought I might put in higher temp, high ripple, higher voltage IF I can find them in the same diameter. Its a good idea to put some more vents in the case work. I love the sound and functionality of this unit but reliability has been a real issue. It was sent back to the UK for repairs and upgrades by the first owner and this is the second time it's crapped out on me and I use it VERY lightly... maybe 12 hours per week. Any recommendations for cap replacements would be greatly appreciated. I'm replacing 4700u 25V +/-20% Lelon RXY105C 16*40mm and 6800U 16V +/-20% Lelon RXY 105C 16*40mm. Three points worth noting is that these spec'd caps are all the same physical dimensions but in my unit they vary in size. My guess is that these caps were replaced during a previous repair as even among the same spec'd group there's size variation. Second point is the spec sheet listed 4700u and 6800U and I've never seen lower case and upper case 'U' used. Is there a difference here? Last point, the 6800 had a symbol after the 20% that the others didn't have. A circle going counterclockwise from 11 around to 12 then straight down through the 6 and out the bottom slightly. Not sure what that means or if it's significant. So many questions....sorry guys!
I'm a big panasonic fan in other products. Always made quality. Thanks for the recommendation.
Low ESR, long life, 105 degrees.... FM is cheaper and as you have to replace many ...If you want it to keep functioning both FC and FM are fine. I would have ventilation slots milled in the upper cover of the device. Possibly also in the bottom cover for proper convection. At the right side where the metal studs are you could drill 10 mm holes yourself with a sharp drill, drill press and a running vacuum cleaner.
Lelon was THE brand at the "cap scandal" but supposedly they would have improved their products after that.
Lelon was THE brand at the "cap scandal" but supposedly they would have improved their products after that.
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