Chassis parts, power entry, switches, terminals, RCA, Speaker, etc.

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I too would not like to put too much thought into them. But when you buy binding post that are impossible to isolate from your chassis, you have to look at them closely to make sure they will actually work.

The problem is the disparity. The "good ones" you find can cost as much as $40-$60 USD for ONE. For my tube amp, which has 4 and 8 ohm outputs, this means $240-$360 USD for all the binding posts. That's ridiculous and is more than the tubes cost!

A good sturdy post, with an effective method of isolating it from the chassis, at a reasonable price, say $4-$6 per post. Is that so much to ask for? Actually seems harder to find than it should be.

For my current project, I think I have some large shrink tubing that I can put around the post that goes through the chassis to isolate it. So I can make them work, but I wouldn't' buy them again.

gabo

KAB makes a lot of sense.

Look for used Amps with which you can salvage parts.
Hard rubbish, trash & treasures, thrift stores and the like.

I was looking for a junk amp from which to grab the speaker terminals for an Amp I'm restoring.

The junk amp turned out so nice (cd and amp incorporated) I'm now using it in my garage linked to some old Studio Monitors.

Also picked up an Onkyo Amp & CD Player, both for $20.
Very nice sound and plenty of power.

New is not always the way, particularly in this junk world where everything seems to be made to be thrown out by the next season.

By the way, I just put the magnet test to my banana plugs.
Yep, magnetic.
Nice convenient solution, but defeats the purpose.

Hang in there.
Someone here may end up with a solution.
 
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KAB makes a lot of sense.

Look for used Amps with which you can salvage parts.
Hard rubbish, trash & treasures, thrift stores and the like.

That's a great idea!! I go to a senior center sale about once a month. I'm always looking for electronics, mostly to salvage the case and transformers. Never even occurred to me to also look for terminals!

Hang in there.
Someone here may end up with a solution.

Meh, I'll find stuff. This thread has mostly evolved into a place to vent about stuff I can't find :D

gabo
 
I too would not like to put too much thought into them. But when you buy binding post that are impossible to isolate from your chassis, you have to look at them closely to make sure they will actually work.

The problem is the disparity. The "good ones" you find can cost as much as $40-$60 USD for ONE. For my tube amp, which has 4 and 8 ohm outputs, this means $240-$360 USD for all the binding posts. That's ridiculous and is more than the tubes cost!

A good sturdy post, with an effective method of isolating it from the chassis, at a reasonable price, say $4-$6 per post. Is that so much to ask for? Actually seems harder to find than it should be.

For my current project, I think I have some large shrink tubing that I can put around the post that goes through the chassis to isolate it. So I can make them work, but I wouldn't' buy them again.

gabo

I have a solution for you.

Buy a set of nylon Nuts/Bolts/Washers (suitable gauge).

The nylon nuts and bolts will give you the Amp Chassis insulation you're looking for.

1. Drill suitable holes on the back panel to accommodate each of the four nylon bolts (4 terminals (Left + -, Right + -).

2. Drill a hole through the top of each of the bolts (centrally right through from top to the bottom of the shaft).

3. Fit the Bolts through the inside of the Amp chassis panel and fix them in place using the nylon washers and nylon nuts.

4. Place copper washers up against the nylon nuts.

5. Mark each bolt thread just past the edge of the copper washers.

6. Drill a holes across each bolt shaft at 90 degrees to the original holes.
Drill right through the width of the bolt shanks.
The diameter should be wide enough to take 2 lots of speaker wire.

7. Push your Amp power wires (four) through the holes in the tops of the nylon bolts from the inside of the chassis through to the ends of each bolt.

8. With a narrow skewer or small screwdriver push downwards through the perpendicular holes so the Amp power wires touch the top and bottom faces of the copper washers.
Make sure the section of Amp power cable has suitable shrink wrap insulation where the wires pass in the vicinity of the chassis panel.
You wouldn't want to experience a short circuit.

9. Place second copper washers onto the nylon bolt and push these up against the other side of the amp power wires.

10. Screw on copper nuts onto the nylon bolts and screw these up to the copper washer.

11. Push your speaker wires into the same holes as the Amp power wires.

12. Tighten up the copper nuts until you have a firm mating of the Amp and speaker wires.

This arrangement solves your insulation issues and provides perfect contact (copper amp cable against copper speaker lead cable) without loss.
 

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When I look for parts like switches, signal switches, terminals I prefer to buy military surplus you will not find better quality. I was looking for a signal selector and found one that seemed to be good at signals it turned out that the model was used by the RAF in the 90s in com equipment I paid about € 6 each I bought 10 used 4 it is super quality.

There are so many products that have super good parts that we can use for hifi it's just about finding them and not just looking at products that are made solely for audio we know that a lot of junk is made just to fool us for our money.
 
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