Do electrolytics values stay constant ?

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I found that some of the old Elcap electrolytic capacitors in the KEF held their values but had quite a high ESR value, while others were massively dried out and not doing much at all.
Hi!

Yes, those nasty Elcaps should always be replaced as a matter of course, as they do not age well!
 

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The electrolytics on your crossover board certainly look in good physical condition!

Alcaps are good quality NP electrolytics and should have a long operating life.

The non-polar electrolytic capacitors in a loudspeaker crossover do not become as hot as polar electrolytics might do in an amplifier. Consequently, the damp electrolyte does not dry up as fast, which helps ensure a long working life.

If the wire lead outs still remain perfectly sealed then the Alcaps are likely to be well within spec.
 
in my experience (and i did rebuild quiet a few crossovers), you stay with the original plan (replace elco's with elco's of the same values, including the ESR) or you redesign the crossover with new parts from start on measuring the speakers and often following the same effect (order and slope) of the originals. What you do depends on the situation. But just replace an elco with an film cap or so is asking for problems.

In this case i would order the replacement kit (wich is a good one) and keep it original. But when i redid the crossover of my Goodman Mezzo SL set, i started from scratch, also because in one speaker the inductor was damaged and not useable anymore and i did not have the schematic.
 
The electrolytics on your crossover board certainly look in good physical condition!

Alcaps are good quality NP electrolytics and should have a long operating life.

The non-polar electrolytic capacitors in a loudspeaker crossover do not become as hot as polar electrolytics might do in an amplifier. Consequently, the damp electrolyte does not dry up as fast, which helps ensure a long working life.

If the wire lead outs still remain perfectly sealed then the Alcaps are likely to be well within spec.

I sent the photo to the guy at Falcon Acoustics and he told me that the KEF caps were made in the 1980s so for him these are original caps. So there is that.
I'm still waiting for the little gadget that measures ESR and my set of replacement caps, and I guess I'll start to do some soldering work.

Also, I have to say that I've replaced a pair of dodgy interconnects between preamp and amp and the sound has improved a LOT !
 
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Also, I have to say that I've replaced a pair of dodgy interconnects between preamp and amp and the sound has improved a LOT !
That's very open of you to say so. Always a good idea to check the connections before suspecting the equipment!

Your speakers are bound to sound even better after you have fondly fettled them.

At the very least, by recapping your vintage speakers, you will have staked a claim in their ownership and can be sure that they are giving of their best.
 
Select-on-test for electrolytics is bogus, they are fundamentally imprecise components and drift loads.
Mark is absolutely correct and it may be worthwhile, in the context of this thread, to elaborate on his statement.

Despite all their advantages, wet electrolyte capacitors are subject to slow deterioration caused by gradual evaporation of the electrolyte inside.

Their ESR increases over time and their capacitance decreases.

Film capacitors do not suffer from these ageing problems and, if I were designing a loudspeaker crossover network from scratch, my choice would certainly be to use more reliable film capacitors wherever possible.
 
Falcon Acoustics is knowledgeable about the KEF drivers and has chosen the components in the replacement capacitor kit to match the original capacitors as closely as is possible.

Yeah, I've ordered the kit. However I'm not sure the current caps are in such a bad shape.
I've measured one of 20 uF with the cheap gadget that you can find on amazon and Banggood, and it was still within spec, it also had an ESR of 0.22 ohm and 1.8%. Not a specialist but it seems fair to me. Anyway, since I'll receive the new parts, I will be able to compare with new ones.

Nevertheless, I feel like replacing the 7uF, 16uF and 20 uF caps with their equivalent SCR caps, which are bigger but could still fit. The 20uF could be replaced by 2 10uF in parallel.
 
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