Bluetooth Speaker Midrange Tweeter Subwoofer

[JendoRiot]

I have a BTR Portable 48V 10Ah Battery Pack that will power Nobsound TAS5630 2.1 Channel Class D Amplifier Board. My understanding is that I will need to feed the amplifier with 48V and 10-15Amps in order to get the most out of my speakers. I am trying to find a ON / OFF switch and I believe the switch itself should be rated for 48V and 10-15Amps, but I cannot find one. Any thoughts?


Battery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L56QNFJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0711LCS91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Mark Tillotson]

Few switches are rated for higher than 24Vdc, partly because that's the common case
(12V cars, 24V lorries/boats/aircraft). Large DC voltages are hard to switch as there's
no zero-current point to quench the arc, and if lots of power is being interrupted the arc
can grow large enough to short out the switch terminals completely - a fireball.


Try searching for "DC contactor" rather than "switch". Often its easiest to use something
solid-state to do the switching as no arc problem exists (for instance a DC SSR could be used).


Some of the physically large switches might be OK at 48V and 15A, you'd have to experiment a bit, large size means better arc quenching behaviour, but the higher the DC voltage the greater the problems. You'll need a dummy DC load that handles the full current to test the switch, which is easy if you happen to have a 4 ohm audio dummy load rated at 600W kicking around, otherwise tricky!

 

[PRR]

If you turn-off with the speaker silent, the current will be very low. When playing, the peak 13 Amps current will only be on musical peaks, the average will be under 2 Amps.

Ordinary home light-switches will handle this (DC) abuse many-many times. A pack of 10 is $10 so replace when needed.

As Mark says, breaking DC under load is liable to arc forever and burn the switch. Turn down before you turn-off.

Heavy-duty toggle switches rated 10A 250VAC will handle this OK. Get a 2-pack so if life is exceptionally short you are covered while you buy more or something else.
Amazon.com: DPDT Heavy Duty Toggle Switch - Spade Connectors: Car Electronics

Car/truck/boat battery cutoff switches WILL break this load.
Amazon.com: MagiDeal 100AMP Car Truck Boat Battery Disconnect Power Isolator Cut Off Kill Switch: Automotive

 

[JendoRiot]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6NVSHP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found this power switch and it worked for me because I ended up connecting a buck converter to the output of the switch/battery to power a 24V amp and everything works. Very excited for this build, which you can follow here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/diysound/c..._big_sound/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x

 

[Mark Tillotson]

As Mark says, breaking DC under load is liable to arc forever and burn the switch. Turn down before you turn-off.

Only if the switch is inadequate for the load - always choose a switch/contactor able to handle full load, its a fire-risk to do otherwise.

 

[wg_ski]

Have you considered using a very large MOSFET? You can get a 60 volt 100 or more amp device with a couple milli ohms on resistance much cheaper than a 50 amp mechanical switch. Last ones I bought like that were four bucks in onesy twoseys. It would just need a cheap SPDT to control the gate, one resistor (a k or 2 ohms) and a 12 volt zener to limit Vg. If you start with something like this you can even add features like over current shut down if you wanted to.

 

[JendoRiot]

I got the 48V LED switch and put everything together and it works.