Hi guys.
I have a schatten pickup winder and it’s stop counting winds.
I know that the H21LTB opto country has gone. The thing is it’s now obsolete.
Is there any where that I could cross reference to find an equivalent?
With out having to look through everyone.
Or even better find a NOS.
Thanks.
I have a schatten pickup winder and it’s stop counting winds.
I know that the H21LTB opto country has gone. The thing is it’s now obsolete.
Is there any where that I could cross reference to find an equivalent?
With out having to look through everyone.
Or even better find a NOS.
Thanks.
This type of device (not necessarily this exact one) was commonly used as a reel sensor in mid 80's VCR's.
If you are 100% certain it is faulty then there is a good chance you could at least adapt a modern part. Have a look at Farnell under 'Transmissive Photo Interrupters'.
You need to look at the data sheet for your device for the pinouts and way it operates.
https://uk.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/eesx398/opto-switch-transmissive/dp/1348961
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1...5.1061721401.1558425022-2064991253.1555177671
https://uk.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/ee-sx4070/opto-switch-slotted/dp/1173622
There are several pages of these on the site.
If you are 100% certain it is faulty then there is a good chance you could at least adapt a modern part. Have a look at Farnell under 'Transmissive Photo Interrupters'.
You need to look at the data sheet for your device for the pinouts and way it operates.
https://uk.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/eesx398/opto-switch-transmissive/dp/1348961
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1...5.1061721401.1558425022-2064991253.1555177671
https://uk.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/ee-sx4070/opto-switch-slotted/dp/1173622
There are several pages of these on the site.
I've no idea on the sensitivity tbh. These usually operate in an 'all or nothing' state, when something solid is in the gap the output changes state. Provided there is no ambient light to effect things (and ambient light does affect these) then I would imagine pretty much any would work. The IR led current will be pretty similar for any and would be something easily alterable in any case.
The H21LTB has a buffered totem pole output which probably it is a bit like a 7400 logic type output and would be able to sink and source current.
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So while there will probably be several that can be made to work, it doesn't mean they are a pin for pin replacement. You will have to look at data sheets for that.
Even if none appear suitable it should be easy to rig one up to work.
The H21LTB has a buffered totem pole output which probably it is a bit like a 7400 logic type output and would be able to sink and source current.
HTTP 301 This page has been moved
So while there will probably be several that can be made to work, it doesn't mean they are a pin for pin replacement. You will have to look at data sheets for that.
Even if none appear suitable it should be easy to rig one up to work.
They are all based on an infra red LED, so that's the first thing to check orientation wise. Make sure its the same way about as the original.
The receiving end in yours is a complete IR receiver rather than just a photo-diode. That means there are three leads, one is supply, one is ground and the other is the output.
The output may be normally high or normally low depending on the device and that in itself may not matter for your application, particularly if it just looks for changes in logic level as something rotates in the gap.
It would be worth looking at your original through a digital camera and seeing if you can see the IR led is lit or not. If not then check the voltage across it which would normally be around 2 volts.
The receiving end in yours is a complete IR receiver rather than just a photo-diode. That means there are three leads, one is supply, one is ground and the other is the output.
The output may be normally high or normally low depending on the device and that in itself may not matter for your application, particularly if it just looks for changes in logic level as something rotates in the gap.
It would be worth looking at your original through a digital camera and seeing if you can see the IR led is lit or not. If not then check the voltage across it which would normally be around 2 volts.
2.8 v sounds in the right ballpark. Next check is to confirm the supply (usually 5 volts) is present on the receiver. One pin should be ground, with one of the other two connected to 5 volts, however depending on the state of the output stage both pins could read as 5 volt.
If you then cover the receiver slot with a bit of card or similar (to 100% block all light) you should then see the logic change on the output pin.
If you then cover the receiver slot with a bit of card or similar (to 100% block all light) you should then see the logic change on the output pin.
It seems the H21 will accept supplies between 4 and 16 volts, so that sounds OK.
One of the outside pins should be ground and the other outside pin the supply. The middle pin is the output.
If you can't get that middle pin to change state by either blocking the sensor completely or by shining a light onto the sensor then I would agree that the coupler is faulty.
One of the outside pins should be ground and the other outside pin the supply. The middle pin is the output.
If you can't get that middle pin to change state by either blocking the sensor completely or by shining a light onto the sensor then I would agree that the coupler is faulty.
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Hope you come up with something workable for this.
that's good. And thanks for updating the thread.- Status
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