Budget audiophile speaker cables

Don't the L C,R of the crossover and driver swamp the cable, making it insignificant.
Perhaps for most "ordinary" cable, but then there's that special stuff like in post #28.

Seriously, one thing that can make expensive cable sound different from zip cord or other reasonable speaker wire is intentionally raised L, C, and/or R.

If it costs substantially more AND sounds different, it must be better, right? :)
 
Speaker cables carry electrons. They don't discriminate, have a soul, have an ego, or have the ability to manipulate audio in the levels of 20hz-20khz to a perceivable level that test equipment or a person's ears can tell the difference. Having said that, using 1mm cable on a 1000w 2ohm speaker system will result is poor performance as the cable resistance will become a factor. Most sensible people use standard copper cable of about 4mm or larger figure 8 or twin sheathed cable... I'm yet to meet anyone who can honestly tell me there is a difference.
 
Speaker cables carry electrons. They don't discriminate, have a soul, have an ego, or have the ability to manipulate audio in the levels of 20hz-20khz to a perceivable level that test equipment or a person's ears can tell the difference. Having said that, using 1mm cable on a 1000w 2ohm speaker system will result is poor performance as the cable resistance will become a factor. Most sensible people use standard copper cable of about 4mm or larger figure 8 or twin sheathed cable... I'm yet to meet anyone who can honestly tell me there is a difference.

I have seen AP measurements of two identical core cables that measured differently. They were different colors, and the one that was red, and used iron for the pigment. This slightly increased inductance as a function of current.

The only reason this was even tested was because some "golden ear" insisted he could hear the difference, and credibly beat our ABX test.

Everyday I try to learn something new... wouldn't have guessed this. Granted, a better shield on the cable would have completely eliminated this, but that's really all any decent cable can claim over cheap cable once power handling is sufficiently established.
 
I have seen AP measurements of two identical core cables that measured differently. They were different colors, and the one that was red, and used iron for the pigment. This slightly increased inductance as a function of current....................
Over two decades ago, Neil Muncy (RIP) and then Jim Brown wrote about Shield Current Induced Noise. This is when the dielectric around the two conductors in an balanced interconnect are slightly different. This small difference unbalances the interconnect and allows it to pick-up RFI.
But for loudspeakers, well that's a stretch.
 
Hi Guys
If its within your budget pls try the Duelund 16awg. I couldn’t get hold of the WE 16awg in any case Im using single run including speaker internal wiring on my ML Odyssey it really is very good sounding.Won’t describe the details you just need to try & you’ll be in for a big surprise.

Cheers
 
I have read so much info on audio cables, my mind is spinning. I've read everything from CAT5 to Home Depot power cable.

Here's my story - I'm running all digital, with active crossover. About 75w per channel max power. I want a fun project with the kid. I'm not looking to buy shares of some Russian mine to come up with exotic materials for 20' of speaker cable.

I have a huge spool of in-wall speaker wire - which is really nicely packaged for making cables. However, I want to do build a set, and listen comparatively.

If this is in the wrong category, apologies in advance. Please feel free to move this thread.

Thank you.


Search for 100% money back sellers and try their cables. Remember cable break-in. Don't rush expressing your hatred if your results are abysmal. Give it some time to play.
There is no definite recipe. Different systems will benefit different cable signatures.
 
+1
And the idea of a piece of copper wire needing "break in" is completely absurd to me. Most people wouldn't be able to tell the difference between $2000 speaker cables and a piece of barbed wire.


Personally, I use 1.5mm^3 wire for low power, and 8AWG for high power.
 
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And the idea of a piece of copper wire needing "break in" is completely absurd to me. Most people wouldn't be able to tell the difference between $2000 speaker cables and a piece of barbed wire.
Placebo effect and snake oil vendor can do it.
Barbed wire a good alternative to coat hanger wire.
Personally, I use 1.5mm^3 wire for low power, and 8AWG for high power.
Personally, I put 2.5mm^2 wire for speaker cables, as à tribute to beleif in damping factor.
 
A piece of wire of different types does affect the sound but of course it’s up to the individual to test. Yep I for one wouldn't be caught up spenidng silly money for speaker cables but having said that I have found great sound to be had just spending $120 or so on Dulund 16awg cables. To me its money well spent.
 
The only things in a cable that can affect sound are resistance, inductance and capacitance.
Resistance will reduce the sound level depending on just how much resistance and length of cable there is.
Inductance will reduce top end.
Capacitance will reduce top end.

I just use 13 amp stranded mains cable which is good at all three and have had no problems in 40 years.
 
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I have seen AP measurements of two identical core cables that measured differently. They were different colors, and the one that was red, and used iron for the pigment. This slightly increased inductance as a function of current.

The only reason this was even tested was because some "golden ear" insisted he could hear the difference, and credibly beat our ABX test.

Everyday I try to learn something new... wouldn't have guessed this. Granted, a better shield on the cable would have completely eliminated this, but that's really all any decent cable can claim over cheap cable once power handling is sufficiently established.
Good info, I have observed such differences also according to insulations pigments.


Dan.