How to spot fake TDA7293

Thanks for the reply

The TDA's are originale not fake. I'm going to buy from mouser usa, its the nearest.

i know i've to change the chips, bytheway i would like to know if there is a chance to be sure 100%, using a multimeter, that both are blown or maybe one is still good.
 
I have discovered a way to check for fakes in circuit provided you have a parallel configuration . Since the TDA 7294 cannot be used in parallel on such boards the second chip would be idle .Put the amp to work without a heatsink and a 100 ohm resistor at the output. The chips are protected from overheating so if you slowly rise the volume both will get equally warm/hot if they truly are genuine and work in parallel . If they are fake one will be idle and might get a bit warm but the working one will be a lot warmer /hot. when both are working in parallel they both generate heat so should be any very nearly the same temperature So burning your fingers on one or both is a reliable indication wether fakes or not since olny the real thing can work in parallel .
 
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UTSOURCE !!!!!

That says it all.

They have been previously noted for supplying fakes although they also sell genuine stuff as well.


Andy
..

Its just not worth the risk of buying fake components.
I would rather spend a bit more than end up having to rip out parts from the pcb because they have failed and possibly taken an expensive speaker(s) with them.
 
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Hi thank you ICforensics for the valuable information to test the 7293 a simple method to find out if the component is a counterfeit is to erase the print with acetone remover many TDAs for sale on ebay are marked as original go to Specifications of the object on ebay's page and you will see that for the brand it is stipulated unbranded it is valid for most components as these are oem laserprint
 
One thing I ask myself is why the manufacturers do not do something a bit more failsafe to avoid their products being used for fakes . At manufacturing level it is not so complicated nor expensive to stamp a number into the visible metal tab , say to the left and/or right of the screw-hole which could be one or two 3 if it is a TDA7293 and a 4 if it is a 94 , and so on , which would make it almost impossible to fake them for reason of too costly for sure......... Or engrave it into the plastic on the side facing the tab by melting it into the plastic , or if the plastic is molded then hardened on top of the die code it into the plastic then and there.

I have tried to contact STM about this but cannot find any DIRECT contact address

It must be in the best interest of any manufacturer to have a fail-safe marking of his products and a differently molded casing for example , one with ribs and another without or different ones , or round or square edges , and which would give 16 different casings , would effectively do the trick while surely low cost at manufacturing level ?????

e.g. voltage-coding of power transistors could even be unified this way............ with the edges announcing the max voltage of the transistor within.
 
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PRR

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Joined 2003
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make it almost impossible to fake them
I have a set of number-stamps (and hammer) in garage. I'm sure I could find a self-feeding motorized stamper on IndiaMart or the Chinese equivalent.

When Windows 95 was anticipated to be widely counterfeited, MS included a hologram in the packaging, figuring fakers could not do that. IIRC, fake copies hit the market before MS did.

About anything worth doing, someone in the world can do cheap enough to profit.

Coincidentally--- on TV they are showing fake credit cards perfect (enough) in every detail to pass scrutiny. (Yes, it is a rerun of an older show.)
 
Most Class AB chip amps are out of production for the time being, and the stored ones have been sold.
You are better off buying UTC Taiwan or CRC China chip amps, they make 2030 / 2050 / 1875, the last seems available from TI as well.
3886 / 7293 /7294 are available either in small quantities from private stock, or fakes.
Your choice, buy a known copy at a knock off price, about 20% of the original ones, they work in a fashion at least.
Or buy a fake, and risk collateral damage.
Or buy a broken amp, and salvage the chips from there, which is kind of taking a chance.

The ST made 7294 also has a STK like habit of sudden failure, so I think you are better off with a Mosfet design, if you need that kind of output.
 
I have relatives who make orthopedic stuff, they have a laser machine for marking on steel and titanium, about $4000. Smaller versions were cheaper.
So even a laser is not so expensive to use and abuse for faking.
Unless you need to repair / replace, select a device which is available from reputed suppliers, which currently means Class D or Mosfet.
 
We have SIM based cards here, and now contact less ones, the latter are being skimmed by abusers in the old parking lot central locking capture scam.
A friend in Canada told me the cards there are still magnetic, the chip cards are a work in progress.
As technology evolves, the idea is to make things safer, but crooks are crooks.
Now the latest we have are apps on cell phones, people point their phone at the QR code at the shop, then put the amount on the phone, and confirm.
The shops have a device that goes ding, or speaks the amount...shop keeper gives thumbs up, or whatever, got the money. The shop device costs about $20.
No cash is handled, safer and more convenient. Money is transferred between bank accounts (not so safe) or electronic wallets.
Of course, your phone could be damaged or stolen...That risk is always there.
 
Received a fake one off ebay. Listing shows 1100 sold!

Having to looked at various different chips in the past year trying to spot fakes. I think there's also signature striations on fake chips if you look with a magnifying glass. Maybe from whatever process of sanding off the original markings.
 
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