They can get them, but it sure took me long enough to find them, and I would not buy a big set to mount a few jacks.
Which is all extra-funny because Home Depot must have contracts for metric bits for their Canadian operations. (Which have a much sleeker website, but won't sell cross-border.)
Attachments
You can pick up a 1/8" to 1/2" taper reamer for about $12 from Home Depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General...IBoCASIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#product-overview
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I use these on almost all my builds now, good quality known brand at a reasonable price, just need a step drill for the 24mm hole as recommended by Tony.
Great thing is they never come loose
NF2D-B-2 Neutrik | Mouser New Zealand
Great thing is they never come loose
NF2D-B-2 Neutrik | Mouser New Zealand
And a sturdy but unloved pair of desk scissors will easily ream out soft aluminum that much.
After trying several budget RCA jacks, I have settles on these.
8PCS Rhodium Plated RCA Socket Female RCA Jack connector chassis socket amp | eBay
8PCS Rhodium Plated RCA Socket Female RCA Jack connector chassis socket amp | eBay
Thanks everyone for your advice. I do appreciate it.
I bought 10 of the Rean RCA jacks, which I was able to get quickly from Mouser.
I also bought 8 of the mystery Chinese rhodium-plated RCA jacks because they were cheap, look good, and I like rhodium plating. Those will take a few weeks to get here.
I'll use 'em, compare, maybe I'll remember to report back how they compare.
Oh, I've seen those Neutrik RCA jacks in the extra housing. The only problem there is that I don't have any way to make the 15/16" round holes they require. Otherwise those would certainly be a great choice. Or maybe I could use a 1" chassis punch? I think I have one of those...
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I bought 10 of the Rean RCA jacks, which I was able to get quickly from Mouser.
I also bought 8 of the mystery Chinese rhodium-plated RCA jacks because they were cheap, look good, and I like rhodium plating. Those will take a few weeks to get here.
I'll use 'em, compare, maybe I'll remember to report back how they compare.
Oh, I've seen those Neutrik RCA jacks in the extra housing. The only problem there is that I don't have any way to make the 15/16" round holes they require. Otherwise those would certainly be a great choice. Or maybe I could use a 1" chassis punch? I think I have one of those...
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I've always used Neutrik RCA until starting a preamp project with many inputs which would have required more drilling and space than desired. Purchased Rean for 6 pairs, and was going to put a single pair of Neutrik on the front panel.
I started to disassemble a Rean connector a few minutes ago and was looking at it wondering how the micro shoulder washer could possibly isolate from the chassis. It's tiny.
Holes were drilled to 5/16" and used a hand reamer as shown in post #22. Is a 10mm drill bit the right tool for the job?
Do many people not isolate their RCA from the chassis, and that's why they often tie all of their signal grounds together with a piece of wire?
Started shopping for more substantial nylon shoulder washers but out of stock everywhere.
I started to disassemble a Rean connector a few minutes ago and was looking at it wondering how the micro shoulder washer could possibly isolate from the chassis. It's tiny.
Holes were drilled to 5/16" and used a hand reamer as shown in post #22. Is a 10mm drill bit the right tool for the job?
Do many people not isolate their RCA from the chassis, and that's why they often tie all of their signal grounds together with a piece of wire?
Started shopping for more substantial nylon shoulder washers but out of stock everywhere.
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I ordered a metric stepped drill bit and try to use the Rean with the isolation washers provided. If not isolating, would be mixing grounding schemes by having the front Neutrik input isolated, maybe be an interesting test.
Your grounding scheme makes me wonder about a tube phono stage I have with a separate PSU chassis. An alligator clip wire connecting the two chassis makes for less hum.
Your grounding scheme makes me wonder about a tube phono stage I have with a separate PSU chassis. An alligator clip wire connecting the two chassis makes for less hum.
I use the one on the right in this set. OOOh it's on sale!
For mine, 13/32 works well enough.
Mastercraft Step Drill Set, 3-pc Canadian Tire
For mine, 13/32 works well enough.
Mastercraft Step Drill Set, 3-pc Canadian Tire
check out this thread for various interesting RCA jacks:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-female-connectors-in-special-outline.245825/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-female-connectors-in-special-outline.245825/
I never did report back, so here goes...
I've used those Rean RCA jacks from Mouser in a couple of small builds. I think they're 100% perfectly fine. They're more expensive now, about $47 for 10 pairs of gold plated, red and black.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN/NYS367-2?qs=R5cXQUTKuHXVYwwK%2BeCprA==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN/NYS367-0?qs=R5cXQUTKuHU8XkQYanQZXg==
RCA is a garbage connector. But if you have to use them, the Neutrik ones are good:
https://www.neutrik.us/en-us/neutri...nnectors/phono-rca-chassis-connectors?c=audio
And for the male:
https://www.neutrik.us/en-us/neutrik/products/phono-rca-connectors/profi-cable-connectors?c=audio
Tom
https://www.neutrik.us/en-us/neutri...nnectors/phono-rca-chassis-connectors?c=audio
And for the male:
https://www.neutrik.us/en-us/neutrik/products/phono-rca-connectors/profi-cable-connectors?c=audio
Tom
Thanks Tom, those Neutrik plugs do like the best bet. The reason I haven't tried them is because they cost a lot compared to others, $27 a pair or $234 for ten from Mouser (in the US):
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NF2C-B-2?qs=6LylQoPC2Sveqi3XFaNqFg==
Besides the long ground/0V connector, what is the advantage of this plug over the REAN ones? Like this -- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN/NYS373-9-U?qs=%2B86TLfaev2%2B/yVJ0gHkBoQ==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NF2C-B-2?qs=6LylQoPC2Sveqi3XFaNqFg==
Besides the long ground/0V connector, what is the advantage of this plug over the REAN ones? Like this -- https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN/NYS373-9-U?qs=%2B86TLfaev2%2B/yVJ0gHkBoQ==
Absolutely agree with this statement. After a few decades of building stuff these have definitely caused some aggravation on a few occasions. Considered going BNC, mini XLR's, or some other alternative if someone had a good suggestion.
BNC connectors are good but not commonly used in analog audio.
I put differential inputs on all my gear so XLR is my go-to. The Neutrik ones are good and very affordable ($3ish each).
For PCB-mount RCA connectors I do like these: https://neurochrome.com/collections/connectors-parts/products/rca-connectors That said, I'm obviously biased. What I like about them is that they have round pins so they're easy to fit properly to a PCB unlike other connectors which require slots. They also look good and the gold-plated hardware is a nice touch. That said, one can do way better than an RCA connector (fancy or not).
Tom
I put differential inputs on all my gear so XLR is my go-to. The Neutrik ones are good and very affordable ($3ish each).
For PCB-mount RCA connectors I do like these: https://neurochrome.com/collections/connectors-parts/products/rca-connectors That said, I'm obviously biased.
What I like about them is that they have round pins so they're easy to fit properly to a PCB unlike other connectors which require slots. They also look good and the gold-plated hardware is a nice touch. That said, one can do way better than an RCA connector (fancy or not).Tom
That's 3501FR (FR = From Rear).
There's also the 3501FP, which mounts from the outside.
https://tubedepot.com/products/switchcraft-3501fr-rca-jack
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There are BNC/RCA and RCA/BNC adaptors, so you can change to all BNC without losing the compatibility. SMA RF connectors are another possibility.