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ID help - is this is a 110v or 220v transformer
ID help - is this is a 110v or 220v transformer
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Old 5th September 2016, 06:17 AM   #21
pcan is offline pcan  Italy
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ID help - is this is a 110v or 220v transformer
Quote:
Originally Posted by frangus View Post
And what issues are there with the grounding shown in the photos I have posted?
The Yellow/green wire is not securely attached to the chassis. On most China-sourced low-cost amplifier is missing althogheter, so yours is a better outcome but still a electrical code violation. The grounding screw should not be used for other purposes (on your amp, is a part of the plug receptacle); the wire should be attached to a electrical terminal (not directly soldered); the screw should have a mechanical retainer to avoid accidental unscrew. The resistence from the plug to the chassis should be less than 0.1 ohms.
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Old 5th September 2016, 10:55 AM   #22
subbu68 is offline subbu68  India
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the resistance in this case should not be an issue unless the solder is so bad.Without a micro-ohm meter it not possible to measure this low value.

Definitely connection should be direct on to the chassis with a lug and double nuts on a separate stud as pcan mentioned above. If not drill a hole and fix a screw with double nuts and washer to hold the lug.
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Old 5th September 2016, 11:23 PM   #23
frangus is offline frangus  Australia
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Thanks all

Ive attched a sketch to make sure I understand the wiring. I dont think I have a second lug on the switch but I will connect the neutral to it in the same way if i do

Ill buy a lug and drill a new hole at the back of the chassis to connect the grounding wire

ps Will the primary wires have an enamel(?) coating that needs to be sanded / filed off before soldering?
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Last edited by frangus; 5th September 2016 at 11:29 PM.
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Old 6th September 2016, 12:34 AM   #24
DefQon is offline DefQon  Australia
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Most likely, all those cheap Chinese El-Core transformers are all using solid core enamel/varnish coated winding wiring. Sand/scrap it down to the bare metal base, twist the pair together and heatshrink it.

I would sort out that IEC ground as well as others have suggested, get a crimp on the end and bolted through the chassis properly.
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Old 6th September 2016, 11:44 PM   #25
frangus is offline frangus  Australia
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Will do, thanks

Is the enamel for additional shielding / safety?
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Old 6th September 2016, 11:48 PM   #26
DefQon is offline DefQon  Australia
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The enamel is primarily there to protect and prevent the winding wire making bare contact with each other and shorting out, otherwise the transformer will not work.
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Old 6th September 2016, 11:50 PM   #27
frangus is offline frangus  Australia
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Like on an inductor

Are ther any types of transformers that use a differnt method?
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Old 6th September 2016, 11:52 PM   #28
DefQon is offline DefQon  Australia
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There are different types and shapes of transformers but at the end of the day they all employ windings to work.
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Old 6th September 2016, 11:57 PM   #29
frangus is offline frangus  Australia
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Sorry, I meant the enamel. In your original post you said that cheap ei core transformers used enamel. I assumed there were some types that didn't.
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Old 7th September 2016, 04:07 AM   #30
subbu68 is offline subbu68  India
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As DefQon said above enamelled wire is used for the winding. Enamel is required to insulate between each turn. All motors, transformers use enamelled wires. Only when you go up the voltages (the pole mounted transformers or the substations supply you power) that insulation becomes complicated.

What you see as red and black are PVC insulated copper wires (tinned or bare copper). These are soldered to the winding inside and enamelled wires are not be visible to you. You may need to scrape to remove any oxide from the PVC leads before soldering. As these wires are already soldered ( 2 to the blue wires to the switch and 2 to the socket) even scrapping may not be required.

Some manufacturers bring out the enamelled wires and solder them to terminals fixed on the plastic bobbin on which they wind the wires. Some leave them out without terminals or extended insulated copper wires. Only in this case you need to clean them to shiny copper before soldering.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by subbu68; 7th September 2016 at 04:13 AM.
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