For future builders, I just dealt with this issue. Had to drill holes for those feet myself. Just used the corners of the precut ventilation slits and it was super fast/easy to get the appropriate sized hole.
Well, there's another challenge I just found with this chassis. Beyond the rack handle holes not being wide enough for the bolt heads, which I can confirm is still an issue.
I bought the 4U Deluxe Steel chassis and the back panel kit.
Everything was going swimmingly till I got to the speaker binding posts. The plastic "key" is slightly deeper than the rear plate, which won't allow me to actually tighten the biding posts down flush. They end up being quite wiggly.
Anyone else have this issue and how did you resolve it?
I bought the 4U Deluxe Steel chassis and the back panel kit.
Everything was going swimmingly till I got to the speaker binding posts. The plastic "key" is slightly deeper than the rear plate, which won't allow me to actually tighten the biding posts down flush. They end up being quite wiggly.
Anyone else have this issue and how did you resolve it?
You need to DIY the holes where you would like. The background reasoning for this always being this way is that some customers want 3 feet to create a tripod that doesn't wobble, and extra holes are undesirable. I would do it differently, but for now this is how it's done.
Great question. It does not (those features are not in the dropdown menu when you select between the silver and black). I've updated the description to be specific about this.
There are historical reasons for this, and one day we'll standardize on one option set or the other. I was always hoping to get around to sending out a survey and seeing what % of builders actually utilized the holes (which add to the price, and these panels are big and heavy, chewing up Hifi2000's valuable storage space). We might be rejigging the whole lineup in a year or so and this will get addressed properly then.
Interesting, I'll speak to Gianluca about this. They may not know about it.
The alu back panel is 3mm so there isn't much that can be done about this other than the DIY solution you've suggested or filing the notch back. Going to a 4mm panel would add expense for all chassis, so that's not a great direction. Those "notch" washers have been very hard to source. I'll make a note for the next batch of back panel kits to include some spacers, great suggestion.
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I just worked this out. You both bought the steel version of the chassis, which has a 1mm steel rear panel instead of a 3mm alu rear panel. This is the source of the issue. I totally missed the fact you bought a steel chassis in my last message. We don't sell many of the steel version, and this is why we haven't had more people pointing this out. We'll try to find a suitable washer to include.
Thread revival!
I agree, there are many things which could be improved this is one I noticed today as I did the assembly. The top and bottom of the cases are rattle traps too. They need to have two tabs to put screws in the top and bottom in the middle. Also like to see a nut with thread welded to the support rails instead of a sheet metal screw. That type of fastener can cause metal shavings to fall inside the case... not ideal for electronics!
Binding Posts
Which binding posts work well? I’m looking at Cardas CCGR S or Dayton Audio BPFI-G. The BPFI-G looks too big in overall diameter, but it has the key tab to work with the slot. The CCGR S is designed to be mounted 3/4” on center, but the shaft looks too small for the cutouts in the back panel.
What’s everybody using?
Thanks in advance!
Glen
Which binding posts work well? I’m looking at Cardas CCGR S or Dayton Audio BPFI-G. The BPFI-G looks too big in overall diameter, but it has the key tab to work with the slot. The CCGR S is designed to be mounted 3/4” on center, but the shaft looks too small for the cutouts in the back panel.
What’s everybody using?
Thanks in advance!
Glen
Do those fit without modifying the existing holes in the back panel? Also, how much of a difference is there between the conductivity of brass vs copper? Is it worth thinking about with binding posts?
Zu says there is copper content in the brass for better conductivity. I like that the spade connector is machined out of the billet too. These are nice and the price is right. I ordered four pairs to cover a couple of projects. Thanks!
Those look good as terminal blocks for the power transformer. You’re using them as binding posts?
You’re thinking of Bronze. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc and it’s not a good conductor.