Hi, im looking at this
CROWN AUDIO 800W POWER AMPLIFIER - XLC2800 brand new in sealed box 220V EUROPE 871015007823 | eBay
Seems like a really good deal but it's 220V. And it says for Europe specifically. Im wondering if it would work in the US on house hold 240v? Im building a house and can add 240v outlet in the living room if this works.
CROWN AUDIO 800W POWER AMPLIFIER - XLC2800 brand new in sealed box 220V EUROPE 871015007823 | eBay
Seems like a really good deal but it's 220V. And it says for Europe specifically. Im wondering if it would work in the US on house hold 240v? Im building a house and can add 240v outlet in the living room if this works.
Not exactly.
It actually says:
Not the same by a country mile.
Configurable means user can do it.
Configuration available means "from Factory".
That said, maybe it´s´possible, but I´d ask Factory for clarification.
As of European vs. US voltage, for a long time now Europe has been "unified" around 230V in practice meaning from 220V to 240V range,itb should run on US240V with no problem.
In fact actual European wall voltages have been slowly creeping up, and this is a modern amp, so ....
As of shipping, confirm it from your own home, it *seems* to be shipped from within US, although it´s an European Model/Version.
Notice seller is some kind of surplus seller, not an average shop, and it may be stuck with some of those.
In a nutshell: "I" would buy it, and use a 240V household outlet.
Remember this model is for fixed installations, all connections by screw terminal strips, no regular connectors present (RC, Speakon, XLR, etc.)
No big deal but have that present.
Really good point about the fixed installation part. I didn't see that, though it's not a problem, just need to get a Phoenix connector to RCA cable.
So is it true that there's no difference between US and Europe 240v? Even though the US is 2 phase and Europe is single phase. Also the US 240V outlet has 4 prongs, while Europe has 3. I wonder what outlet I'll have to ask my electrician to install for this amp? I assume he would install a standard 4 prong outlet like the ones for my dryer or cooking range? And then I can cut the plug off the cable and install the corresponding plug?
Whatever sub amp I use I'll end up wanting to run dedicated circuits for it anyway, I would assume running a 240 circuit is no extra cost.
The price is almost too good? The amp retails for almost $1000 in the US, and the seller just offered me 50$ off making it $250+$25 shipping. Should I get it? Should I get 2??!!
I'm thinking stereo sub towers/arrays. I want clubbing level bass in a very open plan living room with double height space, I.e. more like a warehouse, think barndominium. 6-8x 12" each side, or 4x 15" or 18" each side.
So is it true that there's no difference between US and Europe 240v? Even though the US is 2 phase and Europe is single phase. Also the US 240V outlet has 4 prongs, while Europe has 3. I wonder what outlet I'll have to ask my electrician to install for this amp? I assume he would install a standard 4 prong outlet like the ones for my dryer or cooking range? And then I can cut the plug off the cable and install the corresponding plug?
Whatever sub amp I use I'll end up wanting to run dedicated circuits for it anyway, I would assume running a 240 circuit is no extra cost.
The price is almost too good? The amp retails for almost $1000 in the US, and the seller just offered me 50$ off making it $250+$25 shipping. Should I get it? Should I get 2??!!
I'm thinking stereo sub towers/arrays. I want clubbing level bass in a very open plan living room with double height space, I.e. more like a warehouse, think barndominium. 6-8x 12" each side, or 4x 15" or 18" each side.
It´s shown in the back panel picture.
Nobody said that, don´t put words in my mouth, even less in this nitpickers and argumentative Forum.
I said something like "I think you will be able to use it with your 240V line" and "Euro spec mains voltage has a quite wide acceptable range" ... by their own declaration.
Power transformer ONLY cares about voltage difference between its primary terminals, not HOW does mains reach it.
That particular amp has an SMPS which rectifies Mains AC into 300 something Volts DC and then converts that into whatever internal circuits actually need.
Ends up being roughly same thing.
In any case that amp has a standard IEC 3 prong cable, so that hugely simplifies your problem.
Let your Electrician decide, you buy the cable he suggests, which will be easily available.
Unless your Electrician is an audiophool, in which case the Sky is the limit.
Let HIM decide, he´s the Certified Electrician.
NEVER NEVER EVER EVER do that.
Buy a certified/approved cable, ask him which one.
You have NO input on Mains sockets, cable and wiring choice,period.
Will he work for free?
Obviously that amp is not for everybody, it´s a hard sell, and in any case that seller deals with surplus/weird stuff.
That said, he must have paid cents on the dollar for them.
He had 10 to sell.
Does "closeout" in his user name ring a bell?
Notice he also sells bed covers, pullovers, underwear, bedsheets, fashion gloves, staples,welding rods, forklift transmission clutches, hard disks,contactors .... the guy "is" an "EBay" in his own right
More power to him.
Other seller products:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?ite..._ssn=closeoutexpress2014&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc
Ever watched Storage Wars - Wikipedia
How do you think stuff is sold afterwards? (hint hint).
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The right circuit to install is a 240V/20A, using #12 wire. Unless it is a very long run requiring a #10. Same circuit I use for my air compressor - the minimum size for a 240 circuit. I’m not sure you can get double-15 breakers anymore, which would be needed for a 15 amp outlet.
Use a 15 amp plug on the amp if that is all the CORD is rated for. (Don’t put a 20 amp plug on a #14 or #16 wire). It will fit a 20 amp socket (it takes both, same as the 120 volt do). Make it a dedicated run with just that one outlet - I’m pretty sure this is required by code for 240V appliances.
Use a 15 amp plug on the amp if that is all the CORD is rated for. (Don’t put a 20 amp plug on a #14 or #16 wire). It will fit a 20 amp socket (it takes both, same as the 120 volt do). Make it a dedicated run with just that one outlet - I’m pretty sure this is required by code for 240V appliances.
That makes a lot of sense.
So this 240v20a outlet:
Leviton 5822-W Straight Blade Single Receptacle, 250 Vac, 20 A, 2 Pole, 3 Wire, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U3I1S...abc_NQZT1CDEPF5D6V7CZ6KK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And a cable with this plug:
NEMA 6-20P Replacement Plug Easy Assembly - Durable Nylon Construction - WB620P - Rewireable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GGK6H...abc_4HBR42ECYVM0T39MH49C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If that's Right, I should be able to plug 2 of these amps into that 1 outlet? Of course I'll go through all the with my electrician, I just want to have the right idea first.
So this 240v20a outlet:
Leviton 5822-W Straight Blade Single Receptacle, 250 Vac, 20 A, 2 Pole, 3 Wire, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U3I1S...abc_NQZT1CDEPF5D6V7CZ6KK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And a cable with this plug:
NEMA 6-20P Replacement Plug Easy Assembly - Durable Nylon Construction - WB620P - Rewireable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GGK6H...abc_4HBR42ECYVM0T39MH49C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If that's Right, I should be able to plug 2 of these amps into that 1 outlet? Of course I'll go through all the with my electrician, I just want to have the right idea first.
You want the 6-15P plug, unless your amp has a #12 cord and 20 amp circuit breaker/fuse. Not likely on the 240 volt models - that would be like 40 amps at 120! You should only use a 20 amp plug on a *device* with a 20 amp cord. Both 6-15 and 6-20 will fit in that socket, but not the 15 amp socket. This was originally intended to prevent someone from plugging a device which draws 20 amps and has a 20 amp plug into an outlet that can only provide 15. I don’t even think 15 amp 240 volt circuits are even in use anymore, but in some old buildings you’ll find 6-15R’s.
When the UK was part of the EU The supply voltage was 'Unified' which posed a problem as EU voltage was 220VAC and UK voltage was 240VAC
So the Standard was set as 230 V+10%/−6%.
My local supply is normally around 250VAC in the UK so just scrapes in on the top tolerance!
So a 240V supply should not be a problem.
So the Standard was set as 230 V+10%/−6%.
My local supply is normally around 250VAC in the UK so just scrapes in on the top tolerance!
So a 240V supply should not be a problem.
There were days when 3 phase electricity was 380 volts, changed to 400 and then to 415 in different countries.
Europe standardized to 400 volts and that devices rated for 400 volts should work with both 380 and 415 volts systems.
In many countries 400 volts is the standard now. I believe UK and Australia is 415 volts.
The purpose as I see is only to prevent overseas products being dumped in. They also changed the color codes of the wires to complicate more.
The single phase voltage for these above systems will be (3 phase supply voltage divided by 1.732) 220, 230 and 240 volts respectively.
Generally 230 volts devices will work satisfactory in 220 or 240 volts supply unless very sensitive devices like incandescent lamps.
If you see a device rated at 220 volts in Europe, was probable manufactured when the standard was 380 volts.
The problem arises only with 240 volts supplies because they allow 5% increase in supply voltage during non peak hours, which can go up to 252 volts.
Most of the 220 volts devices could fail with UK or Australian supplies.
Regards
Europe standardized to 400 volts and that devices rated for 400 volts should work with both 380 and 415 volts systems.
In many countries 400 volts is the standard now. I believe UK and Australia is 415 volts.
The purpose as I see is only to prevent overseas products being dumped in. They also changed the color codes of the wires to complicate more.
The single phase voltage for these above systems will be (3 phase supply voltage divided by 1.732) 220, 230 and 240 volts respectively.
Generally 230 volts devices will work satisfactory in 220 or 240 volts supply unless very sensitive devices like incandescent lamps.
If you see a device rated at 220 volts in Europe, was probable manufactured when the standard was 380 volts.
The problem arises only with 240 volts supplies because they allow 5% increase in supply voltage during non peak hours, which can go up to 252 volts.
Most of the 220 volts devices could fail with UK or Australian supplies.
Regards
Three phase line voltage is quoted as sqrt(3) times the actual rms phase voltage (ie line voltage is the inter-phase voltage).
So 415V 3-phase means 3 phases at 240V (w.r.t. neutral)
380V 3-phase means 3 phases at 220V.
400V 3-phase typically means compatible with 380 or 415. (Just as 230V means either 220 or 240V for single-phase)
[ this is just reiterating the previous post I realize ... ]
So 415V 3-phase means 3 phases at 240V (w.r.t. neutral)
380V 3-phase means 3 phases at 220V.
400V 3-phase typically means compatible with 380 or 415. (Just as 230V means either 220 or 240V for single-phase)
[ this is just reiterating the previous post I realize ... ]
The life of the filaments in lamps is proportional to E12 (power raised to 12, where cube is 3)...the voltage difference.
So a 240 V lamp would be very short lived at 280+ Volts.
Here, you may have a slightly higher secondary rail, and maybe it will get louder.
Don't worry too much about it.
So a 240 V lamp would be very short lived at 280+ Volts.
Here, you may have a slightly higher secondary rail, and maybe it will get louder.
Don't worry too much about it.