Anyone here remove the screws after the glue has dried? I am using polyurethane construction glue on the joints and screwed, but I have removed the screws to keep the cabinet lighter for PA sub duties (double JBL ferrite 15" 2226H). I also plan on using battens 1"x2" farring strips L shape for additional ruggedness, screwed then I will remove them since no Dado joints just butt joints all through out. Thanks
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
Lightweight starts with the supplies. There's a bass cab maker who takes EPS, fiberglasses it and makes big bass cabs that weigh next to nothing. Genius IMO.
A box of screws is probably not near as heavy as the weight savings of going with a neo woofer. I love JBL, but ferrite woofers are a backs worst enemy on the road. And replacing a JBL with something else is not always an easy feat.
When shopping for an 8x10 bass cabinet, I settled on a 6x10 because neo was still kind of new at the time. It had similar output with a big weight savings and to this day is still one of my better purchases I've ever made. The idea of a 4x12 guitar cab was cool at 16, but as I age, stacked 2x12s make more sense... Or do what I used to do... Ask the strongest guy in the band to carry my cab up stairs, and take all the little stuff LOL.
For future reference, this is where a little pre planning would get you a long way. A good dado joint is great. Not always easy to do, but if you take the time then, it pays off in end. Makes one man glue ups easier too IME.
Screws aren't holding anything together anymore. The glue in a joint will be the strong bond if it was glued properly. The screws were just temporary clamps.
Hopefully you have a hand truck and take care of your back... Wheels are your friend when it comes to moving weight.
A box of screws is probably not near as heavy as the weight savings of going with a neo woofer. I love JBL, but ferrite woofers are a backs worst enemy on the road. And replacing a JBL with something else is not always an easy feat.
When shopping for an 8x10 bass cabinet, I settled on a 6x10 because neo was still kind of new at the time. It had similar output with a big weight savings and to this day is still one of my better purchases I've ever made. The idea of a 4x12 guitar cab was cool at 16, but as I age, stacked 2x12s make more sense... Or do what I used to do... Ask the strongest guy in the band to carry my cab up stairs, and take all the little stuff LOL.
For future reference, this is where a little pre planning would get you a long way. A good dado joint is great. Not always easy to do, but if you take the time then, it pays off in end. Makes one man glue ups easier too IME.
Screws aren't holding anything together anymore. The glue in a joint will be the strong bond if it was glued properly. The screws were just temporary clamps.
Hopefully you have a hand truck and take care of your back... Wheels are your friend when it comes to moving weight.
Yes mortron and others thanks for that. I picked up a box of drywall screws with 1.5" long and weighed around 5.5 lbs planning on putting two metal handles on the back top side and casters with metal housing and these cabs are going to be heavy. But if I angled this cab and not have to be picked up I guess I will be ok, back wise. I am estimating with 2 x JBL 2226 15" woofers and 3/4" ply will weigh around 130 lbs per sub. Thanks for all replies.
Maybe split the difference a bit and leave the ones closest to the ends of each batten near corners?
Another consideration is make pocket handles in the plywood by cutting out sections then putting a plastic handle cups behind inside the box to eliminate the air-leak. You'll loose what bit of weight from removing the plywood holes and the plastic handle-cup is far lighter than the steel ones you were probably going to use.
Like you I am a one-man operation and because bass is the easiest to sum the outputs of multiple cabinets without comb filtering I use multiples of small light bass cabinets that stack together to equal a large heavy cabinet.
Smaller cabinets can use thinner material too and that offers a significant weight savings.
Neo drivers are the best way, but I tend to use ones I already have or acquire through hand-me-downs or trade so less desirable heavy ferrite ones I can actually afford. (and since mid/high and top cabs always have to get lifted higher or put on stands, I will try to spend the extra for neo drivers for them!)
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.