Which Soundcraft 200 is this?

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How do I ID my Soundcraft 200. There is nothing on it except "series 200" so I assumed it was just a 200, but I'm learning that it could be an SR or a B or a WTF...

I'm trying to sell it. Truth is, it works great, so if it doesn't sell I'll use it for when I get around to finishing a recording studio for voice overs and music at the theater.

Something about sweep mids and hot pin 2 or 3... dizzying for a beginner like me.
 

ICG

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Joined 2007
The label on the right top will say which one it is. The Soundcraft label on the back will also say so, MX(two digits for the channels)SR and then the serial number or MX**S or no letter after the number of channels.

The price will not be that much change, analog mixers aren't popular anymore and these are quite old, starting 84. The condition of it is the most important thing, followed by the area you live in since postage is an issue and the buyer might want to look at it first, so he'll likely want to pick it up.
 
Ok. This one is old enough that it doesn't appear to have a serial number... at least not one that I can find. The label just says 200, but I've had a lot of people ask me which 200 it is... B, SR, etc.

I figured they were either blind and didn't look at the pictures, or there was some other way of telling.

It is in ridiculously good shape. I can't get any fuzz from any of the pots or faders, all channels work on 1/4" and XLR. I don't think it was used more than 20-30 times and has been in a crate since 1999.

I have a guy coming to look at it for $250. I'll just be happy to get something for it.
 

ICG

Disabled Account
Joined 2007
Ok. This one is old enough that it doesn't appear to have a serial number... at least not one that I can find. The label just says 200, but I've had a lot of people ask me which 200 it is... B, SR, etc.

I figured they were either blind and didn't look at the pictures, or there was some other way of telling.

Well, maybe the back label was removed at one point. I can understand it ppl not knowing all the different versions, nowadays it's simply not known anymore because you never see them used somewhere, they often don't know it or just what google tells them.

It is in ridiculously good shape. I can't get any fuzz from any of the pots or faders, all channels work on 1/4" and XLR. I don't think it was used more than 20-30 times and has been in a crate since 1999.

I have a guy coming to look at it for $250. I'll just be happy to get something for it.

The good shape should be convincing it's worth the 250 bucks. I mean, you have to look at what else you could get for that money. It's usually a cheap noname or house brand of a music store mixer and most of them don't sound as good as the Soundcraft. Or it's something similar but with a lot of scratches, hum, fader noise etc.
With that age you have to reckon a re-cap job has to be done in the future though.
 
How do I ID my Soundcraft 200. There is nothing on it except "series 200" so I assumed it was just a 200, but I'm learning that it could be an SR or a B or a WTF...

I'm trying to sell it. Truth is, it works great, so if it doesn't sell I'll use it for when I get around to finishing a recording studio for voice overs and music at the theater.

Something about sweep mids and hot pin 2 or 3... dizzying for a beginner like me.

Is the console surface color brown or gray?

The original "brown" version labelled "Series 200"

With 4 subs, dual master fader, 4 fixed-band channel EQ with 4 auxes. Generally a flat cabinet with no arm rest or up-slope to the surface Gray and has an up-slope to the cabinet shape? -200B usually

-generally also had 2 sweep-mids in the channel EQ

Gray and has a flat no-slope to the surface like the original -200SR -generally also did not have sweepable mids in the channel EQ, just four fixed bands. -a gray version of the original "200 series"

You could mix and match channel strips in the later 200SR or 200B consoles so often you would see a 200B with some 200SR channel strips accompanying the stock channels. You could also short-load a frame so it was popular to load 16 into a 24 frame to save some cost then load more channels later as you could afford. Consoles were shipped with blank filler panels for the missing strips.

I do not think you could load 200B strips into the SR frame but definitely could SR strips into a B frame

Analog consoles back in those days were quite costly compared to now -and there was no Mackie or Behringer yet to drive prices downward. I do feel that many are way overpaying in their quest for vintage and I personally have experienced that newer cheaper consoles are quieter and more versatile than the old 200's
 
Brown, no slope. Sounds like a 200.

I've had some bites at $250. One of them was luke warm and the other ended up buying one for $250 off of Guitar Center or Sweetwater because it had some kind of money back guarantee.

I hope to find someone who wants it. There are some who really want a "warm vintage sound," or other BS. To me "warm vintage sound" is equivalent to "my old crappy desk is deficient in certain areas that make it sound like 60s music, so I'm going to claim it's cool."
 
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