You are obsessed with X Max
useful somewhere else, forget about it in a small box (which will limit cone movement anyway) relatively low power system.
Check actual curves , the "single number" SPL rating is *misleading*, check and you´ll see that the "98dB" woofer actually meets that .... from 200 to 1000Hz that is, but NOT at 40/60 Hz , you will also see that you heavily pay for extended X Max with greatly reduced output "everywhere else", meaning all low/mid/high mids where most of your acoustic content will be anyway.
Just a small detail: the "1 inch" driver spec refers to throat diameter, actual voice coil is larger: 33mm (1.3").
Of course, a 4400 (1.75") VC is way larger and presumably better.
In any case I would add a series protection lightbulb (if crossover does not already include it) ...... given the "wild Party" spec that is
Thanks for your contribution.
And yes. I am obsessed with xmax. I once bought 4 speakers from a friend. Appeared that all four speakers were blown to bits. Half the cone was inside the chamber and some was within the horn. Since then. I've always wanted as much xmax as possible.
Good idea with the lightbulb protection. I'll be doing it digitally thought. Using the miniDSP 2x4, I'll setup a limiter. And I've settled on getting a seperate amp for the woofers (2x300w) and for the tweeter (2x50w) maybe (2x100w). This way I can seperately EQ for each speaker and setup the perfect crossover
And in terms of the horndriver. I think I'll start with the current horndrivers I have lying around. If I find them not performing well enough - Then I'll upgrade to ND350, which only weights 0,8kg like the ASD1001. If I'm not mistaken, they both use the same 1" horn mouth right?
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It is normal to keep a reflex port some distance away from the enclosure side and bottom walls.
I've seen the type of triangular port to which you refer, but I'm not sure how you calculate for the boundary effects.
Since you are restricted in cabinet volume due to the requirement for portability, perhaps you should be asking us to suggest a 12" driver which will operate satisfactorily in a 40 litre cabinet?
Yeah probably! Though I'm actually quite settled on this driver. It's light, 4 ohm and sprayed with a waterproof coating. Unless someone has some brilliant alternative I'll go with the B&C 12CL76C
And I'll go with plastic-ports then
I'm quite new to designing fullrange cabinets - It's actually my main issue. If you can point me in the right direction, I'll probably stop with the simple questions haha
If you're settled on the driver choice and restricted to around 40 litres, then your cabinet is basically designed, apart from choosing the most appropriate port tuning frequency.
That takes you back to asking for help with the driver's T/S parameters. Meanwhile the default tuning, as recommended by the manufacturer for a 40 litre cabinet, is 60Hz.
That takes you back to asking for help with the driver's T/S parameters. Meanwhile the default tuning, as recommended by the manufacturer for a 40 litre cabinet, is 60Hz.
Small cabinets raise the system Q value and increase boominess. A speaker with a high Qts will perform better in a large reflex cabinet.
The tuning of the reflex port affects the bass response. If the frequency is too high, there will be a peak in the bass response. If too low, the bass will be weak.
Some calculations involving the T/S parameters are necessary.
The tuning of the reflex port affects the bass response. If the frequency is too high, there will be a peak in the bass response. If too low, the bass will be weak.
Some calculations involving the T/S parameters are necessary.
Here are the driver parameters:
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/294-695-bc-speakers-12cl76-specifications-46968.pdf
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/294-695-bc-speakers-12cl76-specifications-46968.pdf
I've already found the parameters, but I don't know how to interpret them. This already helps a lot!
These are gonna be used as stand-alones, and both portability as well as lack of bass will "kill the party" for me. Would it make sense to perhaps get a slightly bigger cab with a driver suited for such cab to achieve just a bit more bass response? It's probably gonna be used indoors 60% of the time. And when used outdoors, they'll be on the ground next to eachother. Preferably up against a wall (Again to enhance the minimal bass I can get out of the cab)
I put the parameters there to act as bait to those with speaker simulation software!
Thanks again for all the help. Is there a way to contact an admin to move the thread to the proper sub-forum?
You could build two smaller wedges and a proper sub. ASD1001 bolts on eminence 8cx coaxial which seems to work in 11litre cabinet, at quick look. Sorry, no other instructions
I did consider this. This way I could install the batterypack and amplifier in the sub, but I won't be needing crazy response below 45hz tbh. I've build this speaker system this sommer. It has 2x BFM DR250 w/ piezos and 2x Cubo w/ kappalite 3015LF. Cubos barely play anything below 45hz and that was alright for this type of music.
I Therefore think that adding a dedicated sub, will be a bad way to get max SPL from the speakers pr. kg
MORE PICTURES
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What you are seeking is a high Xdamage. Xmax is where the nonlinearity starts, Xdamage is where irreversible damage occurs.
Also, the excursion is VERY dependent on the relationship between tuning and low cut corner frequency as well as low cut filter type. Low cut set properly? So don't care too much about excursion. Low cut way too low or too flat? Need a great excursion capability and painfullly pay for it on efficiency and other parameters.
I'm not sure I've done this correctly. I've never done reflex cabinets, and I just noticed that the popular how-to guide on the internet was back up. I gave it a shot and these are the results: cab is 42L. Grey = 60hz tuning. Black = 50hz tuning. Driver is 12CL76C.
Actually I prefer a lower tuning. This way I can EQ the 60-120hz up and get sufficient 45-55hz. This gives me 10hz lower response and I can also set the low-cut 10hz lower
NOTE: These results are just from what I've read on the internet. There may be mistakes.
Actually I prefer a lower tuning. This way I can EQ the 60-120hz up and get sufficient 45-55hz. This gives me 10hz lower response and I can also set the low-cut 10hz lower
NOTE: These results are just from what I've read on the internet. There may be mistakes.
You seem to be hitting the spot with the guide you have found.
The 50Hz tuning loses about 5dB around 80Hz compared to the midrange but is less peaky, more extended and will be (as you say) easier to equalise.
By swapping plastic tubes of different tuning lengths, you can always alter the tuning of the finished speaker and decide which sounds best to you.
The 50Hz tuning loses about 5dB around 80Hz compared to the midrange but is less peaky, more extended and will be (as you say) easier to equalise.
By swapping plastic tubes of different tuning lengths, you can always alter the tuning of the finished speaker and decide which sounds best to you.
Sure my friend.
For a long time. The pictures weren't avaliable, but they have since updated it. Now you can see it all clear. I've been playing around with hornresp before. Trying to optimize hornloaded cabs to my needs. Both the cubo15 and the Roar18 have I played around with. So it didn't take much time for me to learn the few ekstra parameters
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