Top Shelf,
what's a roller brush? Is that a stucko roller sleeve or a brush?
I'm certain I'm going to put on more than one coat of duratex. I didn't buy as much as I thought; the bucket looks bigger in the picture without any size reference, and it's only 1 gallon. I want 2 coats on 2 cabinets, inside and out.
I guess I need to make some panels to go behind the recessed spring-loaded handles and I should make a router guide for the handle cutouts, but I might just use the electric hand-held sabre saw.
I really need to borrow a table saw for a few odd-angle corner braces.
what's a roller brush? Is that a stucko roller sleeve or a brush?
I'm certain I'm going to put on more than one coat of duratex. I didn't buy as much as I thought; the bucket looks bigger in the picture without any size reference, and it's only 1 gallon. I want 2 coats on 2 cabinets, inside and out.
I guess I need to make some panels to go behind the recessed spring-loaded handles and I should make a router guide for the handle cutouts, but I might just use the electric hand-held sabre saw.
I really need to borrow a table saw for a few odd-angle corner braces.
Yeah its the "disposable " sleeve that goes on the roller handle itself. A stucco sleeve may or may not be able to properly coat the Duratex onto your boxes, I suggested it because it is similar to the acrytech roller sleeve. When I first bought duratex I bought their roller sleeve and haven't looked back. I've done 6 boxes with it , and it hasn't deteriorated . It washes out very easily. Like I said that gallon pail should easily do 80-100 sqaure feet , I would definitley just do 1 coat first and try the durability. I've been using it for a year and a half and unless you're dragging your cabs across ashphalt every gig without caster wheels it'll be fine
Yup. I can't remember off the top of my head. I know it's more than what we use at work for cabinets from SW which is $50/gallon, but the Polane is a much harder finish.
West Marine -- not the cheapest (nor the most expensive), but, in my experience -- I live on Connecticut's Fabulous Vacation Shoreline! (Come see the incredible crap that floats over from Long Island!) -- and, though I wouldn't own a boat if ou paid me, they've got (of course) the whole West System, and the people who work in the store weren't selling shoes in Wal-Mart last week -- generally, they really know heir stuff. even if you're not into fiberglass/epoxy, etc. (and you should be!) check out Gougeon Brothers online magazine "EpoxyWorks" at, oddly enough, EPOXYWORKS
Check out the readers' galleries -- by no means is it all boats; it is just staggering how much incredible talent is out their, and the EpoxyWorks gallery has (off the top of my bald head) R/C boats/aircraft/cars, robotics, car stereo enclosures of the absolutely wildest design, experimental aircraft (exp aircraft forums are a great source of info on plywood, glass, carbon fiber, Kevlar, and composites of all sorts), composite cars, bicycles, motorcycles, seats... well, the galleries are just amazing, and composites (including plywood, a vastly underrated structural material) are the bomb.
Check out the readers' galleries -- by no means is it all boats; it is just staggering how much incredible talent is out their, and the EpoxyWorks gallery has (off the top of my bald head) R/C boats/aircraft/cars, robotics, car stereo enclosures of the absolutely wildest design, experimental aircraft (exp aircraft forums are a great source of info on plywood, glass, carbon fiber, Kevlar, and composites of all sorts), composite cars, bicycles, motorcycles, seats... well, the galleries are just amazing, and composites (including plywood, a vastly underrated structural material) are the bomb.
I had to reound all the outer edges on the cabinets so that the black plastic corner protectors fit correctly. Now because the corners are rounded I can't bolt on extruded aluminum angle protection (besides, some of the corners are not 90 degrees). So I was looking at some kind of rubber or plastic I could glue or staple down. One durable possibility is a "keel protector" again from the boating aftermarket. Stuff is meant to bend and shape to the hull's keel line. It uses a 2-part adhesive (primer/activator applied to surface, then the keel-guard is pre-coated with the adhesive). Any experience or advice?
Have you tried Duratex? I love it
Well, having used it now, it is...an unusual paint. Only the future will tell how durable it is. It is shinier than I expected; I thought it would be really flat. I decided to brush on the first few coats. It is thick! It certainly does cover a lot, doing all the baffle boards didn't use up much; a gallon will go far. If you tried to invent a paint to show all brush marks, this would be it. On the other hand, it does hide any imperfections. I probably should have thinned it out before brushing on.
I'll have to look into some spray equiment or perhaps try the roller for final coats. ` The brush was great for getting complete coverage, but this is definitely meant for some kind of more randomixed texturing.
The smell isn't bad outdoors, but at first I was brushing in the garage and that's not safe. The brush cleaned easily with just water (and a dab of soap)! Dries very fast.
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A roller would certainly be neater than spray. But I was looking at some cheap Wagner piston-pump spray equipment, and all-in-one big pistol with a screw-on bottle. Start at about $60. Then again I have a big air compressor if I could figure out what Harbor Freight gun might spray such thick goop. Can't run youtube from work, but I'll look at some of those videos again tonight.
i've used a hopper gun to spray truck bedliner on my cabinets. works great. i've seen guys use this same gun to spray duratex.
for example
http://www.harborfreight.com/texture-paint-spray-gun-66103.html
for example
http://www.harborfreight.com/texture-paint-spray-gun-66103.html
Thanks SCAMERON78, that's definitely the ticket for just a little over $20 and there's a Harbor Freight store right down the street. It's going to make a real mess though, so I need some big sheets of disposable dropcloth to protect the driveway. Love it here in sunny SoCal though, I can paint on Christmas...couldn't in Chicago area 'burbs where I used to live.
Now I'm concerned about raised texture on the front baffle boards where the drivers' cardboard gaskets mount. I've been brushing the Duratex on them, sanding between coats. Maybe I should just thin down the Duratex with some water for the last coats on the baffle boards, and try to brush it on smooother.
And I remember how we had to pry some drivers off the old cabinets, so I'm going to let the duratex dry COMPLETELY before I try mouting the drivers.
Now I'm concerned about raised texture on the front baffle boards where the drivers' cardboard gaskets mount. I've been brushing the Duratex on them, sanding between coats. Maybe I should just thin down the Duratex with some water for the last coats on the baffle boards, and try to brush it on smooother.
And I remember how we had to pry some drivers off the old cabinets, so I'm going to let the duratex dry COMPLETELY before I try mouting the drivers.
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I bought the harbor-freight hopper gun. It holds a gallon and a half, and I only have 1 gallon. I'd better be all set up with the cabinets in a row on drop cloths before I start. But I've still got more handle holes and jackplate holes and internal braces to install, and then brush the first coat of duratex on, inside and out.
And carpet damps vibrations and even absorbs some of the surface reflections. But most of all it can hide even a major dent.
But this time I really wanted a hard coating. If that gets beat, I can always carpet over it later.
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