Try changing the capacitors
I have my own home brew Dynaudio's and have recently built the crossover network from one of the old Dynaudio kits (Nuance). They have very similar drivers to your 52. I found the following:
1. Solen caps are a little bit bright in my experience. I know Dynaudio use them in their commercial speakers but they are not the best solution. Try an 'auricap' or 'hovland'. Apparently these meld well with Dyn tweeters.
2. The main caps to look at are the series caps. Particularly, the one going to the tweeter. I bypassed my 8.2 mF solen with an 'auricap' of 0.01mF, and the difference is amazing. Smoother, more soundstage and presence.
3. I found silver hook up wire better for bass production and overall clarity than copper
4. You can try different inductors. Higher values 1.8, 2.2 produce more bass, but cloud the midrange. Lower values 1.1,0.9 open up the midrange a little, but can make the sounds a little bright. If you have them on hand, it doesn't hurt to try. The difference between a 1.8 and 1.1 on the driver is quite staggering, without mucking up the crossover too much.
5. Series resistors can be reduced to give more brightness, or increased to tame the drivers. Care if changing the l-pad resistors as this will change the padding of the tweeter.
6. IN GENERAL, the higher priced components you use, the more smoothness and clarity you get.
I hope this helps and good luck. Ad
I have my own home brew Dynaudio's and have recently built the crossover network from one of the old Dynaudio kits (Nuance). They have very similar drivers to your 52. I found the following:
1. Solen caps are a little bit bright in my experience. I know Dynaudio use them in their commercial speakers but they are not the best solution. Try an 'auricap' or 'hovland'. Apparently these meld well with Dyn tweeters.
2. The main caps to look at are the series caps. Particularly, the one going to the tweeter. I bypassed my 8.2 mF solen with an 'auricap' of 0.01mF, and the difference is amazing. Smoother, more soundstage and presence.
3. I found silver hook up wire better for bass production and overall clarity than copper
4. You can try different inductors. Higher values 1.8, 2.2 produce more bass, but cloud the midrange. Lower values 1.1,0.9 open up the midrange a little, but can make the sounds a little bright. If you have them on hand, it doesn't hurt to try. The difference between a 1.8 and 1.1 on the driver is quite staggering, without mucking up the crossover too much.
5. Series resistors can be reduced to give more brightness, or increased to tame the drivers. Care if changing the l-pad resistors as this will change the padding of the tweeter.
6. IN GENERAL, the higher priced components you use, the more smoothness and clarity you get.
I hope this helps and good luck. Ad
sorry, bypassing very small value of oil or silver/oil cap should be fine, sure when the value of a bypass is comparatively very very small.
but i tried to combine a value of 1 uf solen and 1 uf M cap silver (also certain kind of combination), the sound is very very dull but someone may regard this as a kind of special taste. And that's what i want to tell u.
I heard from one speakers and parts' shop, he said that metal oxide resistor should be ok, or even use a pair of double value resistor in parallel to serve the part, should be better
but i tried to combine a value of 1 uf solen and 1 uf M cap silver (also certain kind of combination), the sound is very very dull but someone may regard this as a kind of special taste. And that's what i want to tell u.
I heard from one speakers and parts' shop, he said that metal oxide resistor should be ok, or even use a pair of double value resistor in parallel to serve the part, should be better
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