Hey,
After some talking with a friend last night, I suddenly got the idea to create a 2.5way system with sonotubes. I was already thinking about creating something like a 2.5 or 3way and have had a look at a lot of designs right now : EVEII, sidefiring speakers, ...
But the problem with these are that they require a big box (wooferbox is usually big) to be build. This is where my sonotube-sub idea comes in, it's very easy to build and doesn't require much gluing and stuff, while I think it still sounds good.
Ok enough talking now, this is what I had in mind:
I'm planning to create two sonotube-subs which both will have a 10" woofer (Monacor SPH-250TC) and a reflexpipe. The woofers will prob be made downfiring and have a cutoff at about 100Hz or 120Hz.
On top of these tubes I'm planning to put a sealed two way system with a mid (Peerless HDS134) and a tweeter (Monacor DT-252).
The filter will be put outside of the box, something like the EVEII's brainbox idea, so that it's easy to adjust something over time (plus it would make biamping possible which might be interesting over time).
Ok this is my idea, can you guys give some feedback of what think about it? My only concern is that I've read that sonotube-subs are great subs but I have no idea if there good in a 2.5way system.
Thx for reading and feedback.
After some talking with a friend last night, I suddenly got the idea to create a 2.5way system with sonotubes. I was already thinking about creating something like a 2.5 or 3way and have had a look at a lot of designs right now : EVEII, sidefiring speakers, ...
But the problem with these are that they require a big box (wooferbox is usually big) to be build. This is where my sonotube-sub idea comes in, it's very easy to build and doesn't require much gluing and stuff, while I think it still sounds good.
Ok enough talking now, this is what I had in mind:
I'm planning to create two sonotube-subs which both will have a 10" woofer (Monacor SPH-250TC) and a reflexpipe. The woofers will prob be made downfiring and have a cutoff at about 100Hz or 120Hz.
On top of these tubes I'm planning to put a sealed two way system with a mid (Peerless HDS134) and a tweeter (Monacor DT-252).
The filter will be put outside of the box, something like the EVEII's brainbox idea, so that it's easy to adjust something over time (plus it would make biamping possible which might be interesting over time).
Ok this is my idea, can you guys give some feedback of what think about it? My only concern is that I've read that sonotube-subs are great subs but I have no idea if there good in a 2.5way system.
Thx for reading and feedback.
Sounds like an interesting project!
The only problem that comes to mind, is that the mid/high speakers should really be at about ear level at your favoured listening position, if you have big sonotubes, they may be too high to sit on top.
Other than that, it sounds like you don't need much help and are well on top of things
Just post some pretty pics when you are done!
The only problem that comes to mind, is that the mid/high speakers should really be at about ear level at your favoured listening position, if you have big sonotubes, they may be too high to sit on top.
Other than that, it sounds like you don't need much help and are well on top of things
Just post some pretty pics when you are done!
In some ways it should be better!
When you get down to sub frequencies, the wavelength of the sound is much longer than any dimension of the enclosure. This means that the total volume of the box is either in compression or rarefraction. This means you need an enclosure as rigid as possible under deformation, and this is a cylinder, ( actually the best a sphere, but that would get very complex to build!), as they have the best strength to weight ratio of any shape.
Hope that makes sense
When you get down to sub frequencies, the wavelength of the sound is much longer than any dimension of the enclosure. This means that the total volume of the box is either in compression or rarefraction. This means you need an enclosure as rigid as possible under deformation, and this is a cylinder, ( actually the best a sphere, but that would get very complex to build!), as they have the best strength to weight ratio of any shape.
Hope that makes sense
Hi all,
After some reading around, I've found an interesting post somewhere stating that a sonosub in an 2.5 system should be crossed over at about 80Hz, because else you'll loose a lot of the "slam" that comes from a directly facing woofer. To do this passively means getting a big inductor. Is it true that the crossover needs to be that low?
I think the peerless HDS134 are capable of taking a lot when only used from 80Hz, or I hope so.
Anyway I made a little picture of how I've got things in mind:
Any suggestions are always welcome of course.
The thing is that with this system I'm stepping away from my current 2.1 system with sats and a sub. My goal is to make speakers now that are capable of playing music very good while still being able to sound impressive with movies, in the future I'm planning on making a 5.1 system and using the speakers I make now as fronts.
After some reading around, I've found an interesting post somewhere stating that a sonosub in an 2.5 system should be crossed over at about 80Hz, because else you'll loose a lot of the "slam" that comes from a directly facing woofer. To do this passively means getting a big inductor. Is it true that the crossover needs to be that low?
I think the peerless HDS134 are capable of taking a lot when only used from 80Hz, or I hope so
.Anyway I made a little picture of how I've got things in mind:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Any suggestions are always welcome of course.
The thing is that with this system I'm stepping away from my current 2.1 system with sats and a sub. My goal is to make speakers now that are capable of playing music very good while still being able to sound impressive with movies, in the future I'm planning on making a 5.1 system and using the speakers I make now as fronts.
Hi everybody,
Nice project Bylie !
Please find my comments on it :
* Peerless HDS134 is a good choice, one of the best performance/price ratio for the moment. It has very low harmonic distorsion and very good transient response. You will be surprised the power they can handle... The spec sheet (you probably have it yet, if not please ask me) recommends a 10 liter box with a vent tuned to 65Hz, this gives you a -3dB point at 62 Hz !
I choosed them to play with the focal Tc90tdX tweeter, crossover frequency slightly above 2kHz (12dB/oct).
* For the Sub : did you ever try a band pass box with two speakers in Isobarik configuration ? I plan to complete my installation with two (or four) old good VIFA M21 (30Hz to 90Hz passband, fourth order). I hope they will "follow" the HDS134 for the transient response (probably not due to their moving mass but we will see...)
Skyw.
Nice project Bylie !
Please find my comments on it :
* Peerless HDS134 is a good choice, one of the best performance/price ratio for the moment. It has very low harmonic distorsion and very good transient response. You will be surprised the power they can handle... The spec sheet (you probably have it yet, if not please ask me) recommends a 10 liter box with a vent tuned to 65Hz, this gives you a -3dB point at 62 Hz !
I choosed them to play with the focal Tc90tdX tweeter, crossover frequency slightly above 2kHz (12dB/oct).
* For the Sub : did you ever try a band pass box with two speakers in Isobarik configuration ? I plan to complete my installation with two (or four) old good VIFA M21 (30Hz to 90Hz passband, fourth order). I hope they will "follow" the HDS134 for the transient response (probably not due to their moving mass but we will see...)
Skyw.
A reply!
Hi Skywalker,
I'm still in the decision fase of things, I've got a couple of designs in my mind.
One of them is the design above, another is a TL with a peerless HDS182 or CSX176 (these seem quite good peerless pipe) or the proac 2.5 clone which seems the least appealing because it's rather expensive.
At the moment I'm looking at a lot of information on TL's and I'm liking what I see!
My speakers will become reality, eventually. I just like to think things over rather than jumping in without a clue.
Another reason those peerless pipes appeal to me is because they're goodlooking and are quite inexpensive (considering the sound), it's also easy to make a HT with these. Add 2 more as rears, a center and a sub and you're set.
BTW I'd replace the peerless WA10 tweeter with the seas 27TFFC (tip from the designer himself).
Hi Skywalker,
I'm still in the decision fase of things, I've got a couple of designs in my mind.
One of them is the design above, another is a TL with a peerless HDS182 or CSX176 (these seem quite good peerless pipe) or the proac 2.5 clone which seems the least appealing because it's rather expensive.
At the moment I'm looking at a lot of information on TL's and I'm liking what I see!
My speakers will become reality, eventually
. I just like to think things over rather than jumping in without a clue.Another reason those peerless pipes appeal to me is because they're goodlooking and are quite inexpensive (considering the sound), it's also easy to make a HT with these. Add 2 more as rears, a center and a sub and you're set.
BTW I'd replace the peerless WA10 tweeter with the seas 27TFFC (tip from the designer himself).
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