Hello,
does somebody know TRIO (Kenwood) LS-77 speakers ?
I bought a pair of 10" Coaxial drivers from these loudspeaker.
I have not the passive driver and I would like to use coaxial in a DIY enclosure.
Regards
Pascal
does somebody know TRIO (Kenwood) LS-77 speakers ?
I bought a pair of 10" Coaxial drivers from these loudspeaker.
I have not the passive driver and I would like to use coaxial in a DIY enclosure.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regards
Pascal
sorry that i dont quite get what you are saying, but im gonna give it a shot anyway.
are those speakers a 10" coaxial with a passive radiator? if they are you have two options to replicate the original design.
you can get another 10" PR(partsexpress has lots, peerless also make some very good 10" ones)
OR
you can simply build a ported design with adequate port area, in the end this wll be the same if not a wee bit better than a PR set up(ive heard horror stories about really high GD with PRs)
for which ever design you pick, you must frst find out the speaker parameters which can be achieved many ways.
first you should try emailing kenwood, they might be able to give you t/s specs, or alternately the original box size and weight of the PR.
if that fails there are kits from partsexpress and tutorials online on how to measure your speakers parameters, its not to hard but i have NO experience with it, so im sure someone else could help you with that.
Once youve gotten the parameters you shoudl download software called winISD(interactive speaker design). This is a free software that allows you to virtually model any box size and how it reacts with your driver, and shwos things like cone excursion, transfer function, maximum SPL, vent mach etc. Make sure you get the pro version. It can be downloaded from www.linearteam.dk
then once youve chosen a box deisgn all you gotta do is calculate some panel sizes and make your boxes. Try and find some builder project diaries online, theyl save you time and trouble by giving you some ideas/tips on building enclosures, it can be finnicky sometimes.
If the other driver is active, i would reccomend scrapping the idea for a second driver, unless you can find another driver with VERY close t/s parameters to your own.
or alternately, if you are a more advanced builder, you coiuld cross them over as midbass drivers, and add a 10" or 12" sub beneath each one. But this woudl require some crossover design, and some experimentation.
SOrry if this post was filled halfway with stuff you already know, just trying to be thorough.
GOOD LUCK!
are those speakers a 10" coaxial with a passive radiator? if they are you have two options to replicate the original design.
you can get another 10" PR(partsexpress has lots, peerless also make some very good 10" ones)
OR
you can simply build a ported design with adequate port area, in the end this wll be the same if not a wee bit better than a PR set up(ive heard horror stories about really high GD with PRs)
for which ever design you pick, you must frst find out the speaker parameters which can be achieved many ways.
first you should try emailing kenwood, they might be able to give you t/s specs, or alternately the original box size and weight of the PR.
if that fails there are kits from partsexpress and tutorials online on how to measure your speakers parameters, its not to hard but i have NO experience with it, so im sure someone else could help you with that.
Once youve gotten the parameters you shoudl download software called winISD(interactive speaker design). This is a free software that allows you to virtually model any box size and how it reacts with your driver, and shwos things like cone excursion, transfer function, maximum SPL, vent mach etc. Make sure you get the pro version. It can be downloaded from www.linearteam.dk
then once youve chosen a box deisgn all you gotta do is calculate some panel sizes and make your boxes. Try and find some builder project diaries online, theyl save you time and trouble by giving you some ideas/tips on building enclosures, it can be finnicky sometimes.
If the other driver is active, i would reccomend scrapping the idea for a second driver, unless you can find another driver with VERY close t/s parameters to your own.
or alternately, if you are a more advanced builder, you coiuld cross them over as midbass drivers, and add a 10" or 12" sub beneath each one. But this woudl require some crossover design, and some experimentation.
SOrry if this post was filled halfway with stuff you already know, just trying to be thorough.
GOOD LUCK!
Hello xstephanx ,
thank you very much, and sorry if I'm not clear.
I bought two coaxial drivers from this sort of loudspeakers. Of course I have no parameters.
I contacted Kenwood to have information but unfortunately they do not have any.
But I can say that Kenwood is a company really very sympathetic with very nice guys. They answer very quickly.
Trio is a department of Kenwood which made very good quality goods.
I know the original box size of LS77 and I have software like winisd. I just need parameters.
But your informations about "tutorials online on how to measure your speakers parameters" it's a good idea, I will search that with google.
Thank you
Best Regards
Pascal
thank you very much, and sorry if I'm not clear.
I bought two coaxial drivers from this sort of loudspeakers. Of course I have no parameters.
I contacted Kenwood to have information but unfortunately they do not have any.
But I can say that Kenwood is a company really very sympathetic with very nice guys. They answer very quickly.
Trio is a department of Kenwood which made very good quality goods.
I know the original box size of LS77 and I have software like winisd. I just need parameters.
But your informations about "tutorials online on how to measure your speakers parameters" it's a good idea, I will search that with google.
Thank you
Best Regards
Pascal
Hi,
A passive radiator is pretty much the same as a reflex port.
So if you build a box the size shown or perhaps up to 30% bigger
then you will have the correct volume for reflexing. If you buy an
adjustable port you can tune that by ear. I'd aim for an adjustable
port that tunes the box to 45Hz in the middle of its range.
The main problem as I see it is the crossover for the coaxial.
/sreten.
A passive radiator is pretty much the same as a reflex port.
So if you build a box the size shown or perhaps up to 30% bigger
then you will have the correct volume for reflexing. If you buy an
adjustable port you can tune that by ear. I'd aim for an adjustable
port that tunes the box to 45Hz in the middle of its range.
The main problem as I see it is the crossover for the coaxial.
/sreten.he coudl always go active and experiment....even if the corssovers woudl end up costing more than the speakers
or make some sort of cruds adjustable first order crossover(i have no diea how to do this or if its even easily made) and adjust them till they sound best, and make better crossovers for them based on the previeous adjustable ones. of course they would be better made crossovers after the adjustable ones.
or make some sort of cruds adjustable first order crossover(i have no diea how to do this or if its even easily made) and adjust them till they sound best, and make better crossovers for them based on the previeous adjustable ones. of course they would be better made crossovers after the adjustable ones.
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