10 sq. ft. awfu small aint it?
i would guess that at that point a pair of 5" coaxial full ranges that planet10 talks about shoud do.
one idea would be in wall mounting are the walls brink? can you make a cabinet by making a hole in the wall.
i did something like this to a bathroom. stuck in a pair or relatively weather proof (read as rubber surround, shielded, pastic cone) 4" full range drivers and used plastic grills from an automobile speaker for protection.
i would guess that at that point a pair of 5" coaxial full ranges that planet10 talks about shoud do.
one idea would be in wall mounting are the walls brink? can you make a cabinet by making a hole in the wall.
i did something like this to a bathroom. stuck in a pair or relatively weather proof (read as rubber surround, shielded, pastic cone) 4" full range drivers and used plastic grills from an automobile speaker for protection.
I did the same thing with old but very good 7'' x 10'' speakers. See picture. The box is 75% filled with accoustic wool used for house. The bad thing with these drivers is that it is impossible to measure the T/S parameters with a software since all the 3 ways are connected together internally.
4 ohms, 240W, carbon fiber, built-in crossover.
4 ohms, 240W, carbon fiber, built-in crossover.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I am using a pair of 10cm two-way car speakers. The tweeter was originally mounted over the woofer, I took it offand mounted it just above the the 'woofer'. It has an internal crossover and works great. They are not particularly efficient and even on a cheap stereo (maybe 10W low quality) they fill a decent sized room with sound. I was fortunate and found some T/S numbers for these and ended up with a box about 3-4L and a really small port. Worked out great for me.
feasibility/advisability of using tri-axial automobile speakers
If you look closely and are carefull you can usually change the bi-polar electrolytic caps to polypropylene (PP) ones.
You may also want to change values to fine tune your sound.
Mount these into a reasonable size box and they should be fine.
The box is 75% filled with accoustic wool used for house.
DO NOT EVER USE FIBREGLASS WOOL as damping material.
The fibres are dangerous and irritant, and still get out of the box no matter what you do.
Polyester wool, sheeps wool and foam rubber are fine.
Good luck, Eric.
If you look closely and are carefull you can usually change the bi-polar electrolytic caps to polypropylene (PP) ones.
You may also want to change values to fine tune your sound.
Mount these into a reasonable size box and they should be fine.
The box is 75% filled with accoustic wool used for house.
DO NOT EVER USE FIBREGLASS WOOL as damping material.
The fibres are dangerous and irritant, and still get out of the box no matter what you do.
Polyester wool, sheeps wool and foam rubber are fine.
Good luck, Eric.
Triaxial speakers
Thanks, all forum members.
Firstly, let me correct a small mistake -- the room size is not 10 Sq Ft, it is 10X11 (110 Sq Ft)
Room area besides, I would like to know something about the following:
1. The order of crossover (is it 1st, 2nd, or 3rd order)
2. Is it true that these bi- and triaxial speakers use only bipolar caps as crossover elements? Are these bipolar caps used in conjunction with the inductance of the loudspeaker coild?
3. Can individual drivers in a triax assembly be taken apart and mounted separately (as one reply suggests)?
Thanks, all good samaritans.
Thanks, all forum members.
Firstly, let me correct a small mistake -- the room size is not 10 Sq Ft, it is 10X11 (110 Sq Ft)
Room area besides, I would like to know something about the following:
1. The order of crossover (is it 1st, 2nd, or 3rd order)
2. Is it true that these bi- and triaxial speakers use only bipolar caps as crossover elements? Are these bipolar caps used in conjunction with the inductance of the loudspeaker coild?
3. Can individual drivers in a triax assembly be taken apart and mounted separately (as one reply suggests)?
Thanks, all good samaritans.
Re: Triaxial speakers
-if you mean what is in a bought speaker,
it is 90% probable 1st order,
and a first order is just a Cap.
-if you mean what you should try, there is no rule
it depends on the data of the element
3. That thing you will have to find out.
"evereything put together, sooner or later falls apart"
Some may be put together that it is possible to take them apart,
without hurting the things.
The easy thing, mostly, would be just to change the CAP. As suggested.
I think, myself, that there is not much to gain by separating the elements.
The engineers who designed them, can not be all that bad.
1. order of crossover? 2. Cap only filter?r_s_dhar said:
-if you mean what is in a bought speaker,
it is 90% probable 1st order,
and a first order is just a Cap.
-if you mean what you should try, there is no rule
it depends on the data of the element
3. That thing you will have to find out.
"evereything put together, sooner or later falls apart"
Some may be put together that it is possible to take them apart,
without hurting the things.
The easy thing, mostly, would be just to change the CAP. As suggested.
I think, myself, that there is not much to gain by separating the elements.
The engineers who designed them, can not be all that bad.
Re: Re: Triaxial speakers
If you haven't already gotten a triaxial, i'd suggest a coaxial or a full-range. Triaxials are really just marketing animals. They aren't woofer, mid, tweeter, but almost FR, tweeter, super tweeter with XOs on the order of 8 & 12k. The XO is just a single bipolar cap.
So if you get a coax have a good look at it and make sure you can get at and change the XO cap. A better cap (and sometimes a different value) are waranted.
Some of the FR units are real sleepers. There is a Delco (General Motors -- factory installed) 6x9 4 ohm whizzer cone (not the 10 ohm unit -- it isn't too bad either thou) unit that is outstanding. You find these at garage sales for $2-5/pr and you just laugh all the way home because you know the guy replaced them with couple hundred buck triaxials and he just doesn't seem to get as much out of his carFi as before
dave
If you haven't already gotten a triaxial, i'd suggest a coaxial or a full-range. Triaxials are really just marketing animals. They aren't woofer, mid, tweeter, but almost FR, tweeter, super tweeter with XOs on the order of 8 & 12k. The XO is just a single bipolar cap.
So if you get a coax have a good look at it and make sure you can get at and change the XO cap. A better cap (and sometimes a different value) are waranted.
Some of the FR units are real sleepers. There is a Delco (General Motors -- factory installed) 6x9 4 ohm whizzer cone (not the 10 ohm unit -- it isn't too bad either thou) unit that is outstanding. You find these at garage sales for $2-5/pr and you just laugh all the way home because you know the guy replaced them with couple hundred buck triaxials and he just doesn't seem to get as much out of his carFi as before
dave
the set of car speakers I am using were sold in two forms, axial form (which I have) and a plate form. The tweeter sits on a little plastic bridge which was slotted into the outside of the woofer basket. A little force to deform the bridge and off it came. The crossover for these speakers in in a small box (7cm x 3cm x 3cm) attached to the speaker leads, it has a few jumpers inside to reduce or increase tweeter volume. I'm not sure this helps you, but here is definitely a large range of speakers out there.
Re: Round vs. oval.
Hmmm. Interesting question. I think a lot would be determined by the cone profile. I see some heavily curved ones on some ovals and my 1st impression is that these would be stiffer, with a completely different set of modes. With a straight profile cone i could see an oval getting kind of "flappy".
So it comes back down to evaluating each driver on its own merits.
dave
Circlotron said:
Hmmm. Interesting question. I think a lot would be determined by the cone profile. I see some heavily curved ones on some ovals and my 1st impression is that these would be stiffer, with a completely different set of modes. With a straight profile cone i could see an oval getting kind of "flappy".
So it comes back down to evaluating each driver on its own merits.
dave
about 100 years ago I used to do this sort of thing. in almost all cases the sound was quite nice. if you take a look at the "confessions" thread you will find that there was more effort put into car speakers than most of us would imagine. what i liked about car speakers was their apparent durablity given that they would have to handle heat (green house effect) the surrounds were usually rubber etc...
if you have not bought your speakers the kind i would recomend are...
1. round (the oval ones seem to have funny breakups i am not sure if this is the cone or th surround or both).
2. rubber surround
3. 2 way with a good tweeter (preferable NdfeB) i have seem some car speakers with nice soft dome tweeters.
another alternate is to build a 3 way using a coax mid and tweeter and a second woofer below that but that is a bigger speaker.
i see you live in India. what i have found here that looks good are some pioneer paper cone 5" coaxes that are very flat. they were used as factory replacements for the OPEL ASTRA. the bass is limited but the rest is smooth.
the Philips driver (also a OEM for the OPEL) with a whizzer cone is also nice and has a nice midbass-midrange performance but the highs are limited.
avoid those speakers with metal / palstic work in front of the woofer. the tweeters are usually mounted on the frame and tis frame rattles and buzzes.
let me know what you can find in mangalore. it might tickle my memory better. email me off line if you want.
I used to do this sort of thing. in almost all cases the sound was quite nice. if you take a look at the "confessions" thread you will find that there was more effort put into car speakers than most of us would imagine. what i liked about car speakers was their apparent durablity given that they would have to handle heat (green house effect) the surrounds were usually rubber etc...if you have not bought your speakers the kind i would recomend are...
1. round (the oval ones seem to have funny breakups i am not sure if this is the cone or th surround or both).
2. rubber surround
3. 2 way with a good tweeter (preferable NdfeB) i have seem some car speakers with nice soft dome tweeters.
another alternate is to build a 3 way using a coax mid and tweeter and a second woofer below that but that is a bigger speaker.
i see you live in India. what i have found here that looks good are some pioneer paper cone 5" coaxes that are very flat. they were used as factory replacements for the OPEL ASTRA. the bass is limited but the rest is smooth.
the Philips driver (also a OEM for the OPEL) with a whizzer cone is also nice and has a nice midbass-midrange performance but the highs are limited.
avoid those speakers with metal / palstic work in front of the woofer. the tweeters are usually mounted on the frame and tis frame rattles and buzzes.
let me know what you can find in mangalore. it might tickle my memory better. email me off line if you want.
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