Dear fellow Audionuts,
I'm looking for drivers for a Two-way bookshelf. It will be sealed. The subwoofer will be a 12" TC2+ so I don't need deep bass, but midbass is still very important so most likely the midrange will be bigger than 5.5", maybe a 7". I currently have a Dayton RS180/RS28A setup which is very detailed and neutral sounding, with a relatively flat soundstage. Performance is exceptional, but I would like some added soundstage and with even greater details. My speakers are already low distortion, so if the details and soundstage come from distortion or whatnot, then so be it. Whatever sounds more musical. I don't need two speakers that sound the same.
For the woofer, I'm considering the Vifa XG18, Seas W18NX, Peerless Exclusive Nomex, and the Accuton C90-T6. But the Vifa XG18 doesn't perform so well in midbass and is xmax-limited, and the Accuton is a rigid cone, so I think I will cross them off the list. Currently not considering any metal woofers unless it sounds very different from the Dayton Reference and Seas metal line of woofers. So what do you guys think I should use for the woofer? Any other alternatives? I would rate midbass performance as more important for music-enjoyment than upper midrange performance btw. But having both would be ideal.
Even if the mid can cross high, I've had better results in the past by crossing low, say around 1800Hz for a 7" mid, 2100Hz for a 5.5" mid. So for the tweeter, I may keep the RS28A (very smooth and transparent, no complaints) unless you guys have a better idea. It needs to be able to cross somewhat low. Preferably have some "air" as well. I don't know if air comes from harmonic distortion or is really there in the sample, I just know that I like it. And I want more of it.
I can do the measurements so lack of available data is fine. And remember this is no holds barred, so cost isn't a consideration. How expensive can a 2-way possibly cost, anyway? Crossovers will probably be passive, but I'll consider active as well since I've got a bunch of amps sitting around. The speakers will be used exclusively for playing computer games like old-skool RPG's.
I'm looking for drivers for a Two-way bookshelf. It will be sealed. The subwoofer will be a 12" TC2+ so I don't need deep bass, but midbass is still very important so most likely the midrange will be bigger than 5.5", maybe a 7". I currently have a Dayton RS180/RS28A setup which is very detailed and neutral sounding, with a relatively flat soundstage. Performance is exceptional, but I would like some added soundstage and with even greater details. My speakers are already low distortion, so if the details and soundstage come from distortion or whatnot, then so be it. Whatever sounds more musical. I don't need two speakers that sound the same.
For the woofer, I'm considering the Vifa XG18, Seas W18NX, Peerless Exclusive Nomex, and the Accuton C90-T6. But the Vifa XG18 doesn't perform so well in midbass and is xmax-limited, and the Accuton is a rigid cone, so I think I will cross them off the list. Currently not considering any metal woofers unless it sounds very different from the Dayton Reference and Seas metal line of woofers. So what do you guys think I should use for the woofer? Any other alternatives? I would rate midbass performance as more important for music-enjoyment than upper midrange performance btw. But having both would be ideal.
Even if the mid can cross high, I've had better results in the past by crossing low, say around 1800Hz for a 7" mid, 2100Hz for a 5.5" mid. So for the tweeter, I may keep the RS28A (very smooth and transparent, no complaints) unless you guys have a better idea. It needs to be able to cross somewhat low. Preferably have some "air" as well. I don't know if air comes from harmonic distortion or is really there in the sample, I just know that I like it. And I want more of it.
I can do the measurements so lack of available data is fine. And remember this is no holds barred, so cost isn't a consideration. How expensive can a 2-way possibly cost, anyway? Crossovers will probably be passive, but I'll consider active as well since I've got a bunch of amps sitting around. The speakers will be used exclusively for playing computer games like old-skool RPG's.
Oh yeah and bass should be punchy and boxy. This depends mainly on the woofer and not the sub. Some of that punch even comes from the tweeter. So I'm not after dipoles or T-lines, which tend to give a different kind of bass.
Also, I don't care about efficiency. I don't build 400WPC amps for nothing.
And if it sounds very good I'll post the final design for all Audionuts!
Also, I don't care about efficiency. I don't build 400WPC amps for nothing.
And if it sounds very good I'll post the final design for all Audionuts!
A "no-holds-barred", "cost-no-object", "400-watt", "low-distortion" gaming speaker....?
Dude, you need to get out of the house more.
(j/k)
The Ribbon Project
Dude, you need to get out of the house more.
(j/k)
The Ribbon Project
First off, the 12" TC2+ is a great choice for crossing over to sealed bookshelves due to its low distortion up top. It may even be the best choice for that application. The Peerless XLS is good too but doesn't have the low end or excursion for a proper subwoofer.
However, you should realize that the TC2+ has fairly high inductance and can't easily be crossed above 80Hz unless you're using equalization. So if you're going with sealed bookshelves, you should choose a midrange bigger than 5.5". 7" would be fine.
However, you should realize that the TC2+ has fairly high inductance and can't easily be crossed above 80Hz unless you're using equalization. So if you're going with sealed bookshelves, you should choose a midrange bigger than 5.5". 7" would be fine.
If its soundstaging and detail your after then why not try an Aurum Cantus G1 ribbon paired with a PHL mid bass?
I can guarantee it won't sound like your Dayton reference and sensitivity will be in the 95dB+ range and yes I know you've got 400w amps but good sensitive drivers always sound better to my ears with more dynamics and realism.
I can guarantee it won't sound like your Dayton reference and sensitivity will be in the 95dB+ range and yes I know you've got 400w amps but good sensitive drivers always sound better to my ears with more dynamics and realism.
A ribbon tweeter paired with the PHL mid sounds like a great idea! I will definately consider it, especially I agree that high sensitivity does seem to sound better although I couldn't figure out why. How is the low-end response of the PHL's? And which PHL model do you have in mind, the 1220? I do like the sound of ribbon tweeters (I have used some LCY's before) and they seem sonically superior to all dome tweeters for upper treble. For gaming I am just sitting there, so no need to worry about off-axis response. Are there any reports/reviews of the Aurum Cantus G1 tweeter?
Yeah I think I am leaning toward the TC2+ as my sub and already have the box made for it. I don't want the sub to be directional, so maybe a crossover at 50Hz to 80Hz depending on the choice of mid. Thanks for telling me it is difficult to cross high with TC2+. So I am even more certain that a large 6.5-7" mid is the way to go.
And yes gvinson it will be for gaming, but remember games have a lot of great music while you play. Bigger soundstage can give games this amazing ambience that makes you feel like you are in a dream. For music, soundstage is a nice bonus but I wouldn't want to sacrifice an ounce of musical detail for soundstage. Fortunately I do know that there are drivers (usually using paper cones) that can give the best of both great detail and soundstage.
Edit: still open to more ideas btw. keep the suggestions coming...
Yeah I think I am leaning toward the TC2+ as my sub and already have the box made for it. I don't want the sub to be directional, so maybe a crossover at 50Hz to 80Hz depending on the choice of mid. Thanks for telling me it is difficult to cross high with TC2+. So I am even more certain that a large 6.5-7" mid is the way to go.
And yes gvinson it will be for gaming, but remember games have a lot of great music while you play. Bigger soundstage can give games this amazing ambience that makes you feel like you are in a dream. For music, soundstage is a nice bonus but I wouldn't want to sacrifice an ounce of musical detail for soundstage. Fortunately I do know that there are drivers (usually using paper cones) that can give the best of both great detail and soundstage.
Edit: still open to more ideas btw. keep the suggestions coming...
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