Clarity on Seas Thor Kit

Byrd said:
Looking good, dont know how ya can resist mounting those drivers.

What are the silver bits for driver mounting in the pictures? Are they just bolts through the board or are the threaded inserts or something similiar?



What you see is the bolts that are holding the threaded inserts in place. I don't want them to accidentallt falling into the box while preparing for the paintjob. They look like this, but I have no idea what they are called in English...


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Sorry, guys, for the lack of updates.
Unfortunately the project has come to a temporary halt.
Mosty because of smell. :)

It is not a good idea to apply the filler and it is really not a good idea to try to paint them inside your own home, so I've been looking for a place to do it.

First my plan was to do it in a party tent.

trott_lackbox.jpg


Even worse idea. :D

Well, I just made sure I an use a paintshop the coming weekend, so I'll start painting Saturday afternoon.

Here's the boxes so far:

frontbeforepaint.jpg


backbeforepaint.jpg


footbeforepaint.jpg


I'm starting to put the XO together, it's gonna go into the foot! :)
 
Very nice. Your time and patience will pay off (I wish I had that much patience).

Repute's xo's are also in the bottom of his enclosures.

I like your base / foot design and how the speaker wire routes.

I would strongly suggest that you add spikes, cones or some type of "lift" to those bases. If you used them flat on carpet or wood floors the bass and highs would not be as "clean" or "detailed" as they are capable of. <ignore if adding after paint>

The factory cabinets Repute had from Madisound were sitting directly on his carpet. I built a base for them to raise them up a bit and isolate them from the ground. They helped a lot, but the fat Thors helped WAY more. I also put a base under the fat Thors too.

But anyway, yours look good so far.

Side Item: The view on your back deck looks wonderful!... Lush green and a little bit of snow..
 
Renron said:
Lookin' good. Even though its hard, try not to rush the painting process. Mine took 6 coats of primer and 5 coats of color + the clear coats.

Good luck,
Ron


Hey, that's a lot of paint! :bigeyes:
Was that a two component polyurethane filler/primer?

Why so many layers...did you identify flaws that you wanted to sand down?

Have you had any skewing of the MDF boards in the box since the paintjob? I really have a bad feeling about the joints starting to show after a while...
 
Those pictures are killing me.... (As I sit here in 70* weather in South Louisiana)

I lived in Northern Japan and really enjoyed the snow.. A forgiven substance to us Cajuns.

I don't think the joints will open if they were glued well, but several coats of paint just make for a MUCH better finish.
 
KarlXII said:



Hey, that's a lot of paint! :bigeyes:
Was that a two component polyurethane filler/primer?

Why so many layers...did you identify flaws that you wanted to sand down?

Have you had any skewing of the MDF boards in the box since the paintjob? I really have a bad feeling about the joints starting to show after a while...


Yep, it was a lot of paint. I used Oxford Ultma water base in a HVLP sprayer, many thin coats are better than a few heavy coats.
After 3 coats of primer, I sanded the whole mess (man what a mess) down with 3M brand 220 sponge sandpaper. Wiped 'em down with a tack cloth, 3 more coats and sanded again.
BTW only the tops and baffles are painted!!!! The sides are cherry laminate, aging nicely.
Be patient, take your time it will be worth your extra effort.

Ron
 

Attachments

  • 5 12 07 004 (small).jpg
    5 12 07 004 (small).jpg
    40.6 KB · Views: 869
Active X-over Newb question

I'm interested in putting together an biamped Thor. What is the definition/difference of acoustic x-order (2nd, 3rd, 4th) as opposed to electrical (12db, 24db) when it comes to selecting the correct slope?

I was thinking 24db/octave active crossover. Does the slope need to be this steep or is there an advantage to this approach with the Thor??

Thanks,
Rob :confused:
 
What Thor design is that. Very nice looking. I would match the rest of the cherry I have around the house.


Renron said:



Yep, it was a lot of paint. I used Oxford Ultma water base in a HVLP sprayer, many thin coats are better than a few heavy coats.
After 3 coats of primer, I sanded the whole mess (man what a mess) down with 3M brand 220 sponge sandpaper. Wiped 'em down with a tack cloth, 3 more coats and sanded again.
BTW only the tops and baffles are painted!!!! The sides are cherry laminate, aging nicely.
Be patient, take your time it will be worth your extra effort.

Ron
 
Crossover slopes and orders defined here
Clickez-ici Click this link

Those Thors were designed by Scottmoose and Planet 10 legends here on this site. I give them all the credit for how they sound. I changed their plans from rectangular ones to curved myself, all important aspects of the redesigned and upgraded Thors were kept the same. I rounded the sides and narrowed the backs to make the design my own style. I increased the depth from the plans SM and P10 designed to allow for the decrease in cabinet volume. Thanks for the kind words. They sound wonderful.
Expensive but wonderful.

After you finish the painting and set the drivers in place, give them about 200 hours to "break in". I thought they sounded good right away but noticed they got better at around 50, 120, 160 hours play time. Don't make snap judgments on the initial listening session. Mine were so bright I tweeked the tone(s) a lot. They are now back to flat.
Sanding is a lot of work but it pays off, try to be paitent with yourself and remember how many hours you have into them at this point. Don't rush the part that will show forever!
Looking very good.
Ron