Disabled Account
Joined 2003
Hi,
I'm building the John K NaO, an open baffle dipole loudspeaker.
John uses a 19mm oak baffle in his prototype, and then solid concrete in a 2nd version.
I wonder if anyone has experience with different hardwoods in loudspeaker building. Depending on who I ask, it's bit of a no-go in building box loudspeakers, but I wonder if the same applies to open baffle speakers.
Tassie oak? Jarrah?
I'm building the John K NaO, an open baffle dipole loudspeaker.
John uses a 19mm oak baffle in his prototype, and then solid concrete in a 2nd version.
I wonder if anyone has experience with different hardwoods in loudspeaker building. Depending on who I ask, it's bit of a no-go in building box loudspeakers, but I wonder if the same applies to open baffle speakers.
Tassie oak? Jarrah?
I used Jarrah hardwood on the corners and baffle of my "Vespa" speaker project. Sourced it from Bunnings floorboard supplies - extemely hard and stable timber which I have had no problems with over the last 15 years.
http://www.gattiweb.com/vespa.html
http://www.gattiweb.com/vespa.html
With OB, use whatever you like. Even wood that had some kind of interesting knots and holes would work. The baffle stores so little energy and doesn't have pressures pushing on it other than the operation of the driver itself, which is why Linkwitz recommends attaching the drivers with a support at the magnet.
tktran,
Mine is being built. Initially I wanted to do it myself. I simply didn't have the experience to use a router to trim the edge of the speaker holes to flush mount the drivers, and I couldn't find a carpeter who was happy to do such a small job. Fortunately, I found somebody who were happy to build the whole speaker for me for under $AUD450 including materials and labour OR possibly $650 painted. I gave him the job straight away. It is now 70% completed. He bought some American oak and used thick high quality MDF. The workmanship is not first class but is quite acceptable and I am happy with it. But what do you expect for a few hundred dollars? If you want this guy to build it for you I can give you his contact. It is a bargain even if you include the shipment fee from Sydney to Perth.
Best regards,
Bill
Mine is being built. Initially I wanted to do it myself. I simply didn't have the experience to use a router to trim the edge of the speaker holes to flush mount the drivers, and I couldn't find a carpeter who was happy to do such a small job. Fortunately, I found somebody who were happy to build the whole speaker for me for under $AUD450 including materials and labour OR possibly $650 painted. I gave him the job straight away. It is now 70% completed. He bought some American oak and used thick high quality MDF. The workmanship is not first class but is quite acceptable and I am happy with it. But what do you expect for a few hundred dollars? If you want this guy to build it for you I can give you his contact. It is a bargain even if you include the shipment fee from Sydney to Perth.
Best regards,
Bill
I saw some Jarrah in bunnings and as soon as I saw it I was trying to think of a speaker project I could use it for! The idea of an open baffle with hardwood does appeal to me.
I would use approx 19mm thick hardwood, double thickness around the edges and have a fairly large radius on the edges. I would also attach MDF to the rear to make it more solid. 3/4" would just look too think IMO.
Here's a nice example for inspiration
You could also just use veneer as shown here with this example which still uses curves (in one dimension):
curved veneer dipole
I would use approx 19mm thick hardwood, double thickness around the edges and have a fairly large radius on the edges. I would also attach MDF to the rear to make it more solid. 3/4" would just look too think IMO.
Here's a nice example for inspiration
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You could also just use veneer as shown here with this example which still uses curves (in one dimension):
curved veneer dipole
I am doing my first speaker project and rebuilding some old optimus boxes which to my suprise the mdf was 18mm and i am putting a second layer of mdf for my baffle.I have not done anything with wood for years and this was a good project to start with .
I bought the jasper jig for my holes and it works great made cutting the holes a breeze I am near Foster so buying parts are all mail order for me .I am finding the crossover a hard one to try to work out but i am going to keep at it.
I bought the jasper jig for my holes and it works great made cutting the holes a breeze I am near Foster so buying parts are all mail order for me .I am finding the crossover a hard one to try to work out but i am going to keep at it.
In 1997 I was labouring on a bilding site in the Victorian alps (Mt Hotham) and they were using a couple of very hard woods for an external walkway. The only one I remember is called "Tallow wood" ( I think), weighs a ton (dense) and must be very durable as it was in extreme conditions (under snow for 4-5months a year) in a high use area. So if you want rigidity that may be an idea.
Disabled Account
Joined 2003
The problem with using natural wood is its tendency for movement with humidity changes. Some species will move more than others. Then, the manner in which they are sawn will dictate the direction in which movement will take place. It is best to use kiln-dried, quarter-sawn timber for this application.
My favourite specie is Sapele, which I have used to clad four DIY designs to date. Black American Walnut is also very good, but difficult to match for jointing purposes.
HTH.
James
My favourite specie is Sapele, which I have used to clad four DIY designs to date. Black American Walnut is also very good, but difficult to match for jointing purposes.
HTH.
James
With wood moving due to humidity, its important to make sure that all sides are pretty much equal in their exposure to the outside.
If one side of the wood is exposed to the air and other side side is finished with an air tight polish, then the water in the wood will evapourate faster thru the unfinished side, or absorb water. This WILL cause the wood to warp and loose its shape.
If on the other hand you have clad a speaker with wood the inside of the wood is exposed to MDF which is going to prevent water loss. And then the outside of the wood (which you see) will have a watertight finish on it, so will either completely stop, or greatly reduce water loss. This way the wood stays stable and it should stay in shape.
If one side of the wood is exposed to the air and other side side is finished with an air tight polish, then the water in the wood will evapourate faster thru the unfinished side, or absorb water. This WILL cause the wood to warp and loose its shape.
If on the other hand you have clad a speaker with wood the inside of the wood is exposed to MDF which is going to prevent water loss. And then the outside of the wood (which you see) will have a watertight finish on it, so will either completely stop, or greatly reduce water loss. This way the wood stays stable and it should stay in shape.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.