OK, I'm hoping to be able to listen to my first DIY loudspeakers with Visaton drivers this Saturday. The boxes are glued, except the back, the holes for the drivers are cut, the crossovers are finished, all I have to do is glue the back, mount the XO board inside, mount the drivers, put the damping material, wire it and pump some amperes into them. Some last few questions that will make me finish the last steps with confidence.
1. Do you leave the wires inside loose or do you tighten them to the inside of the enclosures? I'm thinking about glueing them to the MDF with a few drops of PVAC.
2. How do you fasten the XO inside? Well, if you put it inside, which I will.
3. About the damping. My box is a 2-way, 40 liter, bass-reflex, 1m of height, approx 20x20cm cross-section. I'll use wadding as damping material at start. Generally, how loose does the damping have to be? Of course I'll experiment with the amount I'll put inside, but I want to get a raw notion of how loose or dense does it have to be inside.
4. How do you seal the woofers at the flange? I gather that silicone sealant is OK, but I'm afraid it'll get on the diaphragm.
I'm sorry if these questions sound stupid but I sometimes have difficulties figuring out simple stuff
Like that suggestion someone here gave me, using a tourniquet made of rope for tightening the box when glueing. That was really useful, and I doubt I could've re-invented the method for myself.
1. Do you leave the wires inside loose or do you tighten them to the inside of the enclosures? I'm thinking about glueing them to the MDF with a few drops of PVAC.
2. How do you fasten the XO inside? Well, if you put it inside, which I will.
3. About the damping. My box is a 2-way, 40 liter, bass-reflex, 1m of height, approx 20x20cm cross-section. I'll use wadding as damping material at start. Generally, how loose does the damping have to be? Of course I'll experiment with the amount I'll put inside, but I want to get a raw notion of how loose or dense does it have to be inside.
4. How do you seal the woofers at the flange? I gather that silicone sealant is OK, but I'm afraid it'll get on the diaphragm.
I'm sorry if these questions sound stupid but I sometimes have difficulties figuring out simple stuff
Like that suggestion someone here gave me, using a tourniquet made of rope for tightening the box when glueing. That was really useful, and I doubt I could've re-invented the method for myself.
Member
Joined 2003
...same for the crossover network. You will want to tweak the xo, so make sure it is accessible without major surgery.
4-way dipoles
4-way dipoles
Firstly, congrats on your near project completion.
1. I would leave the wires loose, so that it's easier to install and remove the drivers.
2. I generally "glue" the crossover to the rear or bottom wall using silcon . Keep in mind you may want to remove it later.
3. Damping should be not to tight, not too loose and depends on the material used. You should ensure a clear air path from driver cone to port. Experimentation is the best idea and make sure you give the woofer time to break-in before making any further changes.
4. Seal the woofers using foam insulating tape, which is used for sealing around window frames, etc. Silicon tends to act like glue, is messy and can be hard to remove.
Good luck.
David
www.gattiweb.com
1. I would leave the wires loose, so that it's easier to install and remove the drivers.
2. I generally "glue" the crossover to the rear or bottom wall using silcon . Keep in mind you may want to remove it later.
3. Damping should be not to tight, not too loose and depends on the material used. You should ensure a clear air path from driver cone to port. Experimentation is the best idea and make sure you give the woofer time to break-in before making any further changes.
4. Seal the woofers using foam insulating tape, which is used for sealing around window frames, etc. Silicon tends to act like glue, is messy and can be hard to remove.
Good luck.
David
www.gattiweb.com
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