I have had acceptable results using a $50 router (hopefully you can find "consumer grade" tools) with a piece of plywood bolted to the base. I use a nail through the plywood as the pivot. You'll need some cheap scrap to position the nail to get the right size hole, but it is a lot easier than trying to patch a hatchet job.
Of course, it you don't flush mount the drivers, they will cover up most of the mistakes made with the sabre saw. Good luck.
Of course, it you don't flush mount the drivers, they will cover up most of the mistakes made with the sabre saw. Good luck.
Flush mounting the drivers seems like a luxury considering this experience. If I can't find a proper tool for routing at a specialized shop, so much for tools for digging that hmm... rabbet(?) around the holes. Sure, I could use another thin piece of particle board with larger holes guled on top of the MDF baffle, that's another option, but I also wanted to bevel the edges of the baffle, more for looks than for baffle diffraction. I guess I should wake up and smell the reality...
Regardless of what type saw/router bit you use, it must be high speed and carbide tipped. Sounds like your 'craftsman' was using a low speed saber saw with a cheap steel blade.
All things considered, I believe you would be better off having sheet metal baffles made with some welded on angle stiffeners, then you can glue on scraps of MDF on the inside to mass load/damp them.
GM
All things considered, I believe you would be better off having sheet metal baffles made with some welded on angle stiffeners, then you can glue on scraps of MDF on the inside to mass load/damp them.
GM
Working with MDF
Mr Push Pull, you could 'chain drill' the MDF just inside the circle you require removing using an ordinary electric drill or even a hand drill (take a while longer). Use an ordinary wood drill bit around 5-10mm. The bigger the drill, the less holes you'll have to drill. Chain drilling is making lots of holes all joined together to make a rough looking cut.
Then tidy up the edge with a half round file, up to the line.
No special tools required... only time.
You can flush mount the drivers with a chisel.
MDF is pressed sawdust and a binding resin. It can easily be chiselled along it's length as it takes on a kind of grain when it's pressed.
It's harder to chisel into the surface of the board because of it's structure.
Remove a little at a time to prevent messing it up.
Mr Push Pull, you could 'chain drill' the MDF just inside the circle you require removing using an ordinary electric drill or even a hand drill (take a while longer). Use an ordinary wood drill bit around 5-10mm. The bigger the drill, the less holes you'll have to drill. Chain drilling is making lots of holes all joined together to make a rough looking cut.
Then tidy up the edge with a half round file, up to the line.
No special tools required... only time.
You can flush mount the drivers with a chisel.
MDF is pressed sawdust and a binding resin. It can easily be chiselled along it's length as it takes on a kind of grain when it's pressed.
It's harder to chisel into the surface of the board because of it's structure.
Remove a little at a time to prevent messing it up.
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