johninCR said:Round off the interior side of the driver hole using a router or wood rasp.
What kind of hardware then?
I mounted mine in 3/4" stock and used screws to fasten them. I started by routing a shoulder then cut the smaller speaker hole so the face of the frame mounts flush with the surface of the cabinet face. This cuts down on the apparent thickness of the stock by 3/16" or so. Seems to work fine in the little closed cubes I use. They are of 3/4" birch ply and 7 1/4" or so OD - like little bricks.
BTW - go here http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/systems_frameset2.htm and you will find construction details including mounting holes in the dimension lists - for the 92s 13cm and 14.1 (if you can rout to the nearest milimeter!) leaving a shoulder of 5.5 mm.
Here's the concept.
Here's a rear view showing airflow scallops and Hurricane T-nuts. This was a 5" driver similar in size to the Jordan. The router bit used was a simple ball bearing 1/2" chamfer with a carbide blade. (don't use cheap "high-speed steel" bits on mdf)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's a rear view showing airflow scallops and Hurricane T-nuts. This was a 5" driver similar in size to the Jordan. The router bit used was a simple ball bearing 1/2" chamfer with a carbide blade. (don't use cheap "high-speed steel" bits on mdf)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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