Kapellmeister loudspeakers

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Came across this project a long while ago in the back of my 'an introduction to loudspeakers and enclosure design' book.
Looks interesting - a folded pipe loudspeaker design at a low cost.

Looks like you can make an efficient bassy loudspeaker while still using low cost parts.

Drive units to use are: MQ045, 6 1/2" ,45w,resonance 38hz,added whizzer cone,freq response 56hz-20khz,SPL 94db 1w@1m,570 g magnet weight.

Or Altai 8553DU full range elliptical with whizzer[the original speaker recommened].

Also found a website about this project.

http://www.btinternet.com/~jrbham/kapellmeister/index.html
 

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This is something like the speaker equivalent of the Gainclone where the cost and simplicity tempt you to build it just to see if it really does deliver.

I have read of a couple of examples that have been built and the opinions were that this was a good speaker for the money, although certainly not the ultimate.

For anybody on a really tight budget, this would be a very good design. You can find scrap chipboard in most builders' skips these days so for the cost of the drivers and some fibreglass insulation, you'll be able to try them without much risk. :smash:
 
I've constructed a Kapellmeister enclosure after years of planning to make a set. I've made in 2012. Since we don't have the recommended the Altai speaker here in my country. I used a Pioneer car speaker & a car cd/radio player where I previously kept when I sold my car.
The performance of the system is awesome. As what the author of that paperback book have mentioned, all the instruments and the vocal of almost songs that I played were crystal clear. I feel like I'm listening in front a band playing live. Indeed, the system have no colorations. It's what really called a hi-fi.
 
I have "An Introduction to Loudspeaker and Enclosure Design" by V.Capel that describes the design, construction, and performance of these speakers. The only aspect of the performance that might trouble some, is the falling response (-4dB at 200Hx, -12dB at 100Hz,). These measurements seemed to have been done in room using multiple microphone positions averaged. I have insufficient knowledge to know how significant this is, but it does point towards an honest appraisal from the designer. It does not say if the level of stuffing was subject to experimentation. The designer uses, and advises using, some bass boost.
 
My intention for making an actual enclosure was for:
1.) If the pros mentioned by the author was true.
2.) I had limited budget for materials. The size of the box was important for me.
3.) I know that bass frequencies are not that complete. The player can compensate for the bass response. The med & hi freq production clarity is was what I meant for hi-fi.
 

ICG

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Joined 2007
3.) I know that bass frequencies are not that complete. The player can compensate for the bass response. The med & hi freq production clarity is was what I meant for hi-fi.

Sorry but that is a load of bullcrap. Why? Because this kind of enclosure changes the behaviour in the bass only. It has absolutely nothing to say regarding the mids, let alone the heights. And that means if it is poor in the bass, there is absolutely zero reason to build it in the first place.
 

ICG

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Joined 2007
Look ICG you have no right to tell me what I do or make . I don't care about your comment. You are the one who is ignorant about this enclosure. You should know what you are talking. At least I was able to build one and experience what it sounds like.

You can build whatever you want. Do whatever makes you happy. Why didn't I build one? Well, why don't you build a tire out of stone for your bicylce? What, that would be a bad idea? Well, there you can see, if you've got some knowledge, you know something will not work well. Or at all. This enclosure principle only works in the bass and if it doesn't work there, there's absolutely no point in building it. So you building it for an experiment is fine to get experience.

But - and that's important - you've attributed a lot of positive things to the enclosure and I could not leave it standing like that because the positive things you've mentioned got not a single bit to do with the type of enclosure! What you've wrote about the sound might (or might not, I'll leave that to the reader) be true, but to tell others it's because of the 'great box' is simply wrong! I wrote that to save others from the disappointment and spending money on something someone (wrongly) praised so much. That's the truth and that's something you'll have to live with.

If you want to improve it, try removing and moving the damping material so it does not eat up all the bass anymore. Best is to keep the damping material in the first ~30-40cm (medium tight stuffed) and remove most of the rest, especially ~1/2-2/3 length to the end. That will make the enclosure work in the bass, you can change and experiment with the damping. Removing the tiles will further improve the sound, keeping the first at the driver is okay though.
 
I got this book too....back when I was a newbie

Ok pun aside, I'm not much more than a newbie now, many years later....

However, ignore the naysayers if you want to go for it!

The Kapellmeisters as a concept aren't as terrible as some would have you believe.

IF you're looking for an aperiodic TL and hope to lose as much rearwave energy as possible, then they suit.

So too does Visaton Vib130TL.

I'm sure an aperiodic TL could be designed using MJK worksheets but I'm not sure how. Maybe Akabak can simulate?

Strides have been made which largely leave Bailey lines and things like the Kapellmeisters in almost pseudo science territory but they largely have a basis in science, just with one or two incorrect assumptions.

I still have no doubt, with the right drivers, losing the corner reflectors, and with a careful redesign the construction method and general premise make for a neutral and balanced output (almost Infinite baffle without the necessary home renovation) and could make for brilliant integration with a subwoofer.
 
Built a pair of these back in the 1990s.. Total cost was about £40 and they sounded incredible.. Stuck to the exact design and was able to get hold of the Altai's back then (£10 per pair).. Unfortunately, they were made for a friend of mine who took them away after a couple of months, but during that time I repeatedly gobsmacked many audiophiles that had spent a small fortune on their own floor standers..
During construction, I was feeling a bit sorry for my mate as I assumed he would end up with a very inferior pair of speakers.. My word, was I wrong..
Anyone that has not actually heard these speakers, suggest you ignore them utterly.. If I could only find an equivalent driver (Altai's no longer available) I would joyfully set about making another pair.. These speakers totally changed the way I judge hifi, no longer will I do design by numbers, now I will only ever use my ears to assess any hifi unit..
Whoever Kapellmeister is, he is to be applauded, loudly, with stunning clarity and bass..
 
Ah.. Well hats off to them for being a source of inspiration.. And a strong nod to V Capel.. Although my (poor) recollection is that the design came from an early 1960's American electronics magazine..
Is anyone aware of a full range driver to rival the Altai? Especially in price..
 
Have finally found a cheap driver to rival the Altai (no longer available)
It is a Soundlab 8" 25w full range driver, 89db sensitivity and 38Hz - 18Khz (resonant frequency 45Hz).. Cost £20 for a pair..
Have re-jinked the Kapellmeister design to accommodate the different dimensions of this driver and am starting construction this week..
Not been this excited about hifi for many years and really looking forward to seeing if this all works as well as the original. Will try and make this a low cost project as before and will see if I can keep the cost down to below £75..
Have a cad drawing (draftsight, dxf file) if anyone wants this, but you might want to hold off until I have actually built and run them in..
Wheeeeeeeeeeeee....!
 
Well I built them.. Re-worked the design a little so the port comes out of the front rather than the bottom..
Made with a friend of mine who got curious after all my blathering on about them.. Then he did something really mean and underhand, he offered me his Audio Innovations 500 valve amp as a swap and has now taken them..!
Sigh.. Was a huge success, sound fabulous and really pleased with them and can highly recommend the Soundlab drivers as a replacement for the Altai's.
We re-worked the design a little and made the TL port come out of the bottom front of the cabs, we reckoned the varying reports re the bass from these cabs was likely due to the different floor coverings people stood them on.. Firing the bass into the floor from the back of the cabs was likely to be a bad idea if one had a deep fluffy carpet..
Also made this pair out of chipboard but have already ordered all the bits to make another pair and these are for me and will be made out of plywood..
Will try and make these on a budget (1st pair had one or two costly bits, not my choice) and see how cheap they can be made for..

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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Thet were designed using the Classic deign techniques that existed before proper modellers showed us what was possiblle, introduced useful tricks to increase performance, and showed up the many fallacies of classic design. The 1st clue is the end-loaded driver. Taking the simpla expedient of putting the driver on the “back” so that the driver is tapped part-way into the line will improve the reduction of ripple, allow the use of less damping and get more bass. But it would be better to just start from scratch.

dave
 
I built a pair back in the mid 90s, I still have them upstairs.

They were built exactly to spec. (I wasn't clever enough to deviate), but I found that there was a peak around 1khz (never knew why), were flat down to 250hz, then the response gradually fell away as expected from a single unit. However all this was compensated with a graphic equaliser. Also found that any speaker cloth had to be open weave or it dulled the treble.

The problem with the author's construction was that it was extremely difficult to replace a speaker, as I had to after blowing one when pulling out a phono lead without turning down the volume! On music signal though they would go quite loud.
 
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