that is not a good driver for this application. you can tune it low, but the limited xmax and xmech say it won't give you a lot of bass. There are way better arround. And that tweeter won't reach low enough to meet the woofer.
If you want a better combo that is cheap and easy to work with, use the Dayton RS180 woofer and the SB26ADC tweeter and cross at 1500 to 2000Hz. Both drivers can be bought (i suppose you're in Italy) here in this dutch (EU) webshop: SoundImports: Zelfbouw (DIY) audio componenten en accessoires - SoundImports
For 220 or so you got a very good combo to experiment with. If it sounds bad it won't be the drivers. They are not the best, but very high quality for their price i think. The woofer can be tuned to 30Hz in a reflex and still goes high enough to meet the tweeter arround that region with a 2nd order or higher crossover.
And other options exist also, many kits arround are at least worth studying to learn about that. Maybe for a first build, a kit may be a better id even...
If you want a better combo that is cheap and easy to work with, use the Dayton RS180 woofer and the SB26ADC tweeter and cross at 1500 to 2000Hz. Both drivers can be bought (i suppose you're in Italy) here in this dutch (EU) webshop: SoundImports: Zelfbouw (DIY) audio componenten en accessoires - SoundImports
For 220 or so you got a very good combo to experiment with. If it sounds bad it won't be the drivers. They are not the best, but very high quality for their price i think. The woofer can be tuned to 30Hz in a reflex and still goes high enough to meet the tweeter arround that region with a 2nd order or higher crossover.
And other options exist also, many kits arround are at least worth studying to learn about that. Maybe for a first build, a kit may be a better id even...
Why do you want f3 of 30Hz? If you want such low frequency you need to buy subwoofer driver
not always, this driver does it in a 35L box with a slotport of 200x20mm and 282mm long. It only works on half the power rated, but that is already with 30Hz at 99dB before going over xmax (so a pair at 102dB) which is louder than most will go in a hifi setting.
If you want a high power subbass that low or in a big hall, i agree, but not for normal listening levels.
If you want a high power subbass that low or in a big hall, i agree, but not for normal listening levels.
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never trust those online calculators but use proven software like WinISD, Hornrsp, VirtuixCad, ... (actually, those three are the highest rated freeware ones down here)
Most of those online calculators are very basic and not precise at all. I don't know the one you use, but in general they can't be trusted. I used WinISD for this, and checked it in VirtuixCad with the same result as i'm using one of those in one of my own designs. I may publish the design when i've build it, but it's in ready to order the wood-phase.
And this driver was used in a smaller case (14L) by Jeff Bagsby (a very famous speaker designer) in his tango kits tuned flat until 55Hz (-2dB) and 40Hz F3. The tweeter is the now unavailble Dayton RS28A tweeter. No way you need 135L to get a flat response with the RS180-4. It's that speaker, that a friend have and i know, that inspired me to make a variation with a different tweeter (the SB26ADC).
Most of those online calculators are very basic and not precise at all. I don't know the one you use, but in general they can't be trusted. I used WinISD for this, and checked it in VirtuixCad with the same result as i'm using one of those in one of my own designs. I may publish the design when i've build it, but it's in ready to order the wood-phase.
And this driver was used in a smaller case (14L) by Jeff Bagsby (a very famous speaker designer) in his tango kits tuned flat until 55Hz (-2dB) and 40Hz F3. The tweeter is the now unavailble Dayton RS28A tweeter. No way you need 135L to get a flat response with the RS180-4. It's that speaker, that a friend have and i know, that inspired me to make a variation with a different tweeter (the SB26ADC).
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No, the sp90 does not work for what you want. It’s a lowmid driver, not fit for bass. The 35l is for the dayton. And that visaton is also ok for bass, but not to pair with a tweeter i think. Then you will need a mid driver in between
We have built a few speakers with the Visaton W200S-8 and the TW70 cone tweeter:
W 200 S - 8 Ohm | Visaton
Latest Project With Thanks To system7
Visaton give you the enclosure details. The rest is done in Boxsim.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/software-tools/331446-boxsim-2-0-launched-2.html#post6809059
My port is probably too small, but I don't care:
W 200 S - 8 Ohm | Visaton
Latest Project With Thanks To system7
Visaton give you the enclosure details. The rest is done in Boxsim.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/software-tools/331446-boxsim-2-0-launched-2.html#post6809059
My port is probably too small, but I don't care: