I tried to build that jig, I lost myself and never finished.
It's why I decided to buy a Woofer tester.
I am on a really tight budget here, I can't find work and I don't get an Old Age Pension and I have no Super due to a very bad divorce; LOL Alll I have are the drivers I accumulated while working and some tools. I spent my inheritance on building my shed and didn't budget for any extras
It's why I decided to buy a Woofer tester.
I am on a really tight budget here, I can't find work and I don't get an Old Age Pension and I have no Super due to a very bad divorce; LOL Alll I have are the drivers I accumulated while working and some tools. I spent my inheritance on building my shed and didn't budget for any extras
Oh Moondog, I'm really sorry to hear this.
Life can be really hard for young at heart old farts like us, especially in these testing times.
What is done is done. You sound like a positive person in general and have the support of your close family, which is so important.
Wish you luck and piece of mind, the rest is just white noise.
Back to speaker building, Woofer tester is nice but not free, and I, being a frugal person like things that come at no cost with a little bit of effort on my side.
If you've already purchased that woofer tester ignore what follows.
Here's a link how to build such a jig:
AudioBlog: A simple loudspeaker measurement jig for ARTA
And here are some photos of my setup with one of the jigs that I run:
As you can see it requires 4 RCA sockets, 4 binding posts, a SPST switch and a 100 ohm resistor, most likely you have some if not all this in your shed. And a cheap plastic box to mount all this.
Here's what you see when you test T/S parameters with LIMP.
Pano's advice is really spot on, you lose a lot of SPL when running it as a woofer on OB and that's why you need high SPL and high Qts to start with.
Have fun and keep posting, looking forward to more.
Cheers
Stan
Life can be really hard for young at heart old farts like us, especially in these testing times.
What is done is done. You sound like a positive person in general and have the support of your close family, which is so important.
Wish you luck and piece of mind, the rest is just white noise.
Back to speaker building, Woofer tester is nice but not free, and I, being a frugal person like things that come at no cost with a little bit of effort on my side.
If you've already purchased that woofer tester ignore what follows.
Here's a link how to build such a jig:
AudioBlog: A simple loudspeaker measurement jig for ARTA
And here are some photos of my setup with one of the jigs that I run:
As you can see it requires 4 RCA sockets, 4 binding posts, a SPST switch and a 100 ohm resistor, most likely you have some if not all this in your shed. And a cheap plastic box to mount all this.
Here's what you see when you test T/S parameters with LIMP.
Pano's advice is really spot on, you lose a lot of SPL when running it as a woofer on OB and that's why you need high SPL and high Qts to start with.
Have fun and keep posting, looking forward to more.
Cheers
Stan
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OK I'll have another go at making up the jig, as you say I will have most of the bits in my stash.
Personally I like OB midrange, I have a thought in my head and maybe I'll get some time tomorrow as a trip to Bunnings for construction timber is now a No-No so I won't Go-Go.
Just thinking about small driver to handle treble, I must have something suitable on the shelf but if anybody has any suggestions please list them.
Maybe a small cone; I have several 70mm cones on the shelf, from those HTIAB sets
Personally I like OB midrange, I have a thought in my head and maybe I'll get some time tomorrow as a trip to Bunnings for construction timber is now a No-No so I won't Go-Go.
Just thinking about small driver to handle treble, I must have something suitable on the shelf but if anybody has any suggestions please list them.
Maybe a small cone; I have several 70mm cones on the shelf, from those HTIAB sets
OB isn't going to give you much SPL with just that. Used as a mid on OB, then it could be loud.
Pano take a look at the black box with the Kicker 15; in it.
Now imagine the organ speaker sitting on top but OB and topped with a small treble driver
That sealed box is capacitor boosted with a 1500uF cap bundle and the bass is reasonably good, just very poor WAF so it's now a party speaker
Most Kawai organs employ very high quality Alnico cone tweeters.
Can be crossed at 3 - 4kHz.
My favourite is Yamaha JA0560 which is very smooth and reaches up to 20kHz without blinking, much better than most middle of the road domes. But requires higher XO point.
First see how high your driver can go.
Another piece of software that is very good is Basta!
Tolvan Data
Svante, the author, is a member here.
It will simplify your design effort big time, very accurate, very intuitive.
It does almost everything.
My only issue is it doesn't do Series XO, but that's a small problem.
Some photos of the stuff that I play with.
Can be crossed at 3 - 4kHz.
My favourite is Yamaha JA0560 which is very smooth and reaches up to 20kHz without blinking, much better than most middle of the road domes. But requires higher XO point.
First see how high your driver can go.
Another piece of software that is very good is Basta!
Tolvan Data
Svante, the author, is a member here.
It will simplify your design effort big time, very accurate, very intuitive.
It does almost everything.
My only issue is it doesn't do Series XO, but that's a small problem.
Some photos of the stuff that I play with.
Attachments
I pick up 5" drivers out of projection TV's sitting on the curb for garbage pickup. These were the top of the TV market in the nineties and sound pretty good when put in a ported box. Only typically 13 watts, though. You kick or pry the lower faceplate to get it off then take a screwdriver or nutdriver to it.
So still thinking about this. More a thought experiment until I can get the two 15" woofers reconed, but where do I put the HF driver>
Do I use one of the multitude of small drivers and place it above the OB on the baffle or do I try and use a small tweeter and fix it somehow centred over the midrangers dust cap?
If using the centred tweeter any thoughts on how cheap I could go as I have a couple of the Audax Mylar sitting doing nothing. The woofers are nothing special but I have them, replacements are only about $80- each too so refoaming isn't really cost effective it simply saves them from going to landfill.
Do I use one of the multitude of small drivers and place it above the OB on the baffle or do I try and use a small tweeter and fix it somehow centred over the midrangers dust cap?
If using the centred tweeter any thoughts on how cheap I could go as I have a couple of the Audax Mylar sitting doing nothing. The woofers are nothing special but I have them, replacements are only about $80- each too so refoaming isn't really cost effective it simply saves them from going to landfill.
If the spider and voice coil are not damaged, there is no need to disassemble the driver or use a voice coil shim when gluing on the new surround because the spider centres the coil, and the position of the surround affects its parallelism. You can determine when the surround is correctly located by tapping around the edge of the cone. If you use an adhesive that allows some 'slip' while setting, it is easy to get it right. There are five dimensions you need, the four circumferences (inner and outer, and roll start and roll end) and thickness or stiffness of the foam. Make sure you put it back the same way (i.e. on front or rear of cone) so you keep the voice coil in the sweet spot.