Here's what I said in an earlier thread:
"Car speakers have to function within a very confined space and must contend with a reflective, resonant and noisy environment. They are therefore designed to overcome these disadvantages.
A neutral, uncoloured frequency response may not be desirable when it comes to designing car speakers.
In home hifi systems, which operate in a more revealing acoustic environment, low levels of noise and distortion and a flat frequency response are the prime design considerations.
It's a case of horses for courses"
Can you use car speakers for home use?
"Car speakers have to function within a very confined space and must contend with a reflective, resonant and noisy environment. They are therefore designed to overcome these disadvantages.
A neutral, uncoloured frequency response may not be desirable when it comes to designing car speakers.
In home hifi systems, which operate in a more revealing acoustic environment, low levels of noise and distortion and a flat frequency response are the prime design considerations.
It's a case of horses for courses"
Can you use car speakers for home use?
Interesting. Traditionally car speakers had wider gaps to accomodate lateral vibration. This reduced sensitivity, which was a problem with low voltages. Shorter coils could be used. Also mechanically they could be affected. These need to be able to be put either in very large rear spaces or very small ones.
Re difference in construction:
Car speakers tend to have a higher Qts than home speakers, which must be taken into account when designing their enclosures. See post #5 in the link I provided above.
Learn about Qts and other driver parameters here:
Understanding Loudspeaker Data | Eminence Speaker
Car speakers tend to have a higher Qts than home speakers, which must be taken into account when designing their enclosures. See post #5 in the link I provided above.
Learn about Qts and other driver parameters here:
Understanding Loudspeaker Data | Eminence Speaker
Are we talking about subwoofers or mid/high kits and coaxials?
Both can be used at home but:
Subwoofers:
Subwoofers need some special amps that can handle high current 4 ohm, and active crossovers needed as well - PA solutions might give the best result but you might also need a different box design and tuning, front ported near wall etc. I’ve used Cerwin Vega 12” strokes at home in 100l with awesome results but the value might be lower because your paying also for rugged design to handle humidity and temperature, etc.
Mid/high and coax kits:
Might work for near field listening but all in all would require new crossovers depending on the box design and baffle correction, otherwise very bright and harsh sounding. I used a Vifa 4 ohm 6,5” car driver at home once with great result but with a different crossover than in the car. I’ve also tried other car kits with horrible results (6x9 with inbuilt do, etc - don’t bother).
Amps and crossovers:
I would never use a car subwoofer driver in a passive design, go active as much as possible. You might find it all not worth it but if you have some CV Strokers laying around then use it, just make sure you have tons of power in the amp and a active steep filter at 80hZ or lower depending on the tops you plan to combine with and your room.
Summary:
I’d say 30% of the cost for the car drivers is related to rough environment. Meaning a hifi driver would probably give 30% more value in a home environment. Unless your home is a caravan then I’m sure car audio would be great - room size is really the decision factor for driver selection
Both can be used at home but:
Subwoofers:
Subwoofers need some special amps that can handle high current 4 ohm, and active crossovers needed as well - PA solutions might give the best result but you might also need a different box design and tuning, front ported near wall etc. I’ve used Cerwin Vega 12” strokes at home in 100l with awesome results but the value might be lower because your paying also for rugged design to handle humidity and temperature, etc.
Mid/high and coax kits:
Might work for near field listening but all in all would require new crossovers depending on the box design and baffle correction, otherwise very bright and harsh sounding. I used a Vifa 4 ohm 6,5” car driver at home once with great result but with a different crossover than in the car. I’ve also tried other car kits with horrible results (6x9 with inbuilt do, etc - don’t bother).
Amps and crossovers:
I would never use a car subwoofer driver in a passive design, go active as much as possible. You might find it all not worth it but if you have some CV Strokers laying around then use it, just make sure you have tons of power in the amp and a active steep filter at 80hZ or lower depending on the tops you plan to combine with and your room.
Summary:
I’d say 30% of the cost for the car drivers is related to rough environment. Meaning a hifi driver would probably give 30% more value in a home environment. Unless your home is a caravan then I’m sure car audio would be great - room size is really the decision factor for driver selection
Do you think the speakers in the car would play quieter than hi fi. I don't understand why if they have a high sensitivity for example 92db.
We talking about all variant car speakers.You think that car speaker have short move of membranes and have hard suspension? I'd like to use biamp or tree amp with active crossover and one option is that car speaker use like full range in range ,108-8100Hz tweeter or super tweeter would be really hi fi dome, and probably subwoofer to be hi fi or some option double car subwoofer. I preferred saled speaker box,can large but saled,no OB. I know that this is nothing concreted but please you opinions?
We talking about all variant car speakers.You think that car speaker have short move of membranes and have hard suspension? I'd like to use biamp or tree amp with active crossover and one option is that car speaker use like full range in range ,108-8100Hz tweeter or super tweeter would be really hi fi dome, and probably subwoofer to be hi fi or some option double car subwoofer. I preferred saled speaker box,can large but saled,no OB. I know that this is nothing concreted but please you opinions?
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To clarify:
You are considering using a hi-fi subwoofer and a hi-fi dome super tweeter?
You would like to use a car speaker to cover the broad audio spectrum in between the above two extremes, and mount it in a sealed box?
You seek opinions on the viability of the above arrangement in a bi-amp or tri-amp situation?
You are considering using a hi-fi subwoofer and a hi-fi dome super tweeter?
You would like to use a car speaker to cover the broad audio spectrum in between the above two extremes, and mount it in a sealed box?
You seek opinions on the viability of the above arrangement in a bi-amp or tri-amp situation?
All of those speakers are coaxials and will in most cases not work very well at home (see my previous explanation about baffle step correction needed in new crossovers). Don’t waste your time on using any of those at home because the crossover are most likely integrated and tailored towards the hat shelf or door in the car. Using them at home will sound harsh.
Long story friend. 432Hz/216Hz/108Hz....8100Hz summary =9 I isten songs which is cut -24db from this frequently region, and sound is satisfied.I listen people on PS Audio sites,and many others and bass cut frequency is about 80-100Hz depending from main speakers,i choise 108Hz. Tesla numbers, 3,6,9. The frequency affect to human health. Of course that is mine thinking.But this is the other one story.