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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

PTT6.6  ST-INKY Mounting Hardware
PTT6.6  ST-INKY Mounting Hardware
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Old 2nd May 2021, 06:51 PM   #1
Haze Head is offline Haze Head  United States
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Default PTT6.6 ST-INKY Mounting Hardware

This will be my first Purifi PTT6.5 build project. The plan is to make flush mount bolts to cleanup the lines of the frame/baffle area.

I have no clue whether they matter acoustically. I just find the standard cap screw, or whatever other standard fastener, to be clunky. If there really must be a reason, chalk it up to fabrication warmup exercises.

The goal is to have one completed by this Wed. but I'll give myself a week if it takes that long.

Oh, and it coincidentally looks like something I've seen elsewhere, but I can't quite put my finger on it...
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Old 3rd May 2021, 12:03 AM   #2
Haze Head is offline Haze Head  United States
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The ST- aka Steel INKY is now CU-INKY as I decided to use some tellurium copper scrap.

I got the easy part done. Before going further it will need a special fixture to hold the threaded ends so they can be liberated.

Ran into a small problem. Purifi has 5.1mm mounting holes listed on the spec. sheet. This is WRONG. Most of my mount holes physically measure to 4.84mm-4.9mm. So the ones I just made to 5mm do not even fit the hole. Will have to do another round, but not the end of the world. Or I can just open up the frame with a drill bit.
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Old 3rd May 2021, 03:00 AM   #3
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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PTT6.6  ST-INKY Mounting Hardware
Cool idea but how is one supposed to screw this in if it can’t spin when it locks in the bezel? A nut from behind? Most drivers are screwed in from front with no access to bolt from the back.
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Old 3rd May 2021, 03:39 AM   #4
Haze Head is offline Haze Head  United States
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That's correct. The driver will have to be bolted from the rear, so it does require a baffle that will allow for that. But this is sort of a warmup project to make sure my equipment is in good working order. Baffle project for this will be next
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Old 3rd May 2021, 03:48 AM   #5
gadut is offline gadut  Indonesia
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Other Manufacturer : build the driver with a common standardized screw

You : nahhh, i'll make a different one
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Old 3rd May 2021, 03:52 AM   #6
Haze Head is offline Haze Head  United States
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Lol, gadut. I think they should make the frame threaded so I can adjust the mounting depth on the fly
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Old 3rd May 2021, 06:05 AM   #7
gadut is offline gadut  Indonesia
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i think you have OCD issue rite

i find on other purifi build, it should not be an issue for me using round head screw.

here is my subwoofer M6 screw where it's hard foam is also not rounded. only silver screw available on this gauge, smaller gauge can be found in black.

i even never had a thought to make it an issue to be solved, life is already complicated
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Old 3rd May 2021, 01:28 PM   #8
Haze Head is offline Haze Head  United States
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OCD on a diyAudio thread? Never happens, not even once- ROFL!

That is a sweet box, I assume those are dual PRs? Gonna need some ghost bolts for those puppies


I decide to go with a longer shank steel version and had the first end mill casualty. Hopefully the last as I'm running low on the good ones. Also managed to get the side two fixture made, so hopefully I can get a set completed today.
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Old 3rd May 2021, 01:38 PM   #9
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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PTT6.6  ST-INKY Mounting Hardware
I have never seen anyone CNC mill multiple parallel threaded bolts from a single block before. Very impressive. For true production, perhaps welding or brazing a head on a regular turned bolt might be more cost effective?
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Old 3rd May 2021, 02:58 PM   #10
Haze Head is offline Haze Head  United States
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I went that route because of convenience. It would take more fixture work to start out with a round bar that is the approximate head diameter.

To really mass produce I suppose forging in the same way as regular bolts would be the most productive. Next best might be some version of spot welding, as you mentioned.

The main issue is with making the head because curvature is in three dimensions, so to be true to the frame lines you can't just come in from one direction and do a quick seeping profile cut. For this reason the material waste is less of an issue because the real expense is contouring the head surface due to far longer cycle times.

Ultimate would probably some flavor of metal injection molding.

If I personally had to make a ton of these, I would probably mill out the head circumference from round bar. Next place them on a jig in the shape of the driver frame (as many as will fit in that diameter), and turn them all to profile on a lathe in one quick shot. Finally attach threaded studs by welding, brazing, friction stir, or whatever.
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