Yes, these are all from what I would call cheapest but good woofers (so.no cheap Chinese house brands or pro drivers). For slightly more you can purchase also Eton 8 inch and why not.to look at SB23nbac?
Is there any sonic qualities you want to achieve? Bass need to be fast, hard, soft, deep?
Seas albo makes few other drivers in similar price, made from different materials.
Is there any sonic qualities you want to achieve? Bass need to be fast, hard, soft, deep?
Seas albo makes few other drivers in similar price, made from different materials.
Peerless ne225w looks great, and I already have the ne180w so I know it is good, but my dealer asks double the money he asks for the others. My budget is around those woofers already mentioned, entry level but good.
I want it to be quick, I listen to rock and h.Metal music, my favorite subwoofer are Peerless xls, nomex cone. Awesome drivers, very fast. Volune is not a problem since for a single 8inch per side I will not have problem to make it work properly.
@kapeli sb23nbac is virtually the same as sb23cac
I want it to be quick, I listen to rock and h.Metal music, my favorite subwoofer are Peerless xls, nomex cone. Awesome drivers, very fast. Volune is not a problem since for a single 8inch per side I will not have problem to make it work properly.
@kapeli sb23nbac is virtually the same as sb23cac
Oh yes ceramic is only metal covered by ceramic in SB as far as I know.
If you want fast bass than I would stay away from SB - they have tons of good qualities, but I never hear and read fast and SB together lol. Vifa and Wavecore costs indeed double than those mentioned by you. Personally I would go for some Seas or Dayton (if price is in much favour here). I was having similar issue some time ago, and purchased SB23nbac, as they tick all of my marks, but most of the people told me that Seas will provide better sounding bass (so more in-depth, more shades of bass and so on) than SB. Dayton is unpopular in my place (much more expensive than in US). And seas have paper, laminated paper, metal and CURV cones in their line, so plenty to choose from. Seas L22 was actually first one on my list, but I had L18 in the past and didn't liked the look of it at all
I've always been interested in the 830869 but it seems some have mixed experiences. None say it's terrible, and most of what I read is positive but it seems like asking it to do too much may leave you unsatisfied.
There are a few who used them like Mike Chua IIRC and there are some builds online detailing the different things they've tried with them. It's worth a search IMO.
That said, some of the other drivers mentioned are quite nice from what I've read and may rule out the 830869. I look forward to seeing your experiences.
There are a few who used them like Mike Chua IIRC and there are some builds online detailing the different things they've tried with them. It's worth a search IMO.
That said, some of the other drivers mentioned are quite nice from what I've read and may rule out the 830869. I look forward to seeing your experiences.
You have a short list of potential woofers. This is a good start.
(1) Now make a quick bass model of each one using T/S parameters.
(2) Based on the box size and bass extension, try to narrow it down just 2-4 woofers. If you have a preference for sealed box designs, this will also narrow it down.
(4) Now model max excursion and SPL for the remaining woofers, and down select to just 1 or 2.
(5) if it comes down to 2 woofers that both seem equally acceptable, you can allow price or aesthetics to guide the selection.
This is how I would do it...
jim
(1) Now make a quick bass model of each one using T/S parameters.
(2) Based on the box size and bass extension, try to narrow it down just 2-4 woofers. If you have a preference for sealed box designs, this will also narrow it down.
(4) Now model max excursion and SPL for the remaining woofers, and down select to just 1 or 2.
(5) if it comes down to 2 woofers that both seem equally acceptable, you can allow price or aesthetics to guide the selection.
This is how I would do it...
jim
Jim you speak the truth, but the simulations are not always telling the truth. For instance I have the feeling that sb23xxx even if the model well, and have no distortion issues, many users experience soft and slow bass as kapeli mentioned.
My list is shortened to
Seas ca22
Scanspeak discovery
Dayton ra225
I will probably give scanspeak discovery a slight advantage over the others. Troels praises it also there is a French fellow at justdiyit who has done some tests of the 10inch discovery, ranking it among the best.
My list is shortened to
Seas ca22
Scanspeak discovery
Dayton ra225
I will probably give scanspeak discovery a slight advantage over the others. Troels praises it also there is a French fellow at justdiyit who has done some tests of the 10inch discovery, ranking it among the best.
Vassilis, I have not used the SB23, but I have seen a number of builds with it on Facebook "SB Acoustics fans" and "DIY Loudspeaker Pad" groups. The SB23 gets a lot of love and praise, and virtually no one has been critical. I would not hesitate to use a SB23 woofer over the RS225, which is quite good itself.
As suggested, it's always a good idea to model several woofers, it's sometimes very surprising what you find. Good luck, and keep us posted, this looks like a great design!
We cannot provide you with any meaningful guidance if you're not going tell us what your criteria are (technical and possilbly other aspects, see post #4 for some examples). All we know is that it should be 8", not "cheap", not very "expensive", and work with an xover frequency of about 400 Hz. There are waaaaay too many options to choose... (400+ such drivers here).
All questions on post 4, are related to the woofer.
Box volume? It depends to the woofer, Michael Chua states for 830869 that works good at 20 liters, seas ca22 works well in 35 liters etc, the volume will not be a problem for a single 8inch woofer per side I don't expect to be a problem.
Efficiency? Depends on the woofer, the rest of the drivers will be paded to match the efficiency of the woofer.
Bass extension since I already said that I want something quick no need for extended bass, since this will slow things down
Also about the price, since we don't live in the same country, we don't have the same retail price. I thing that the woofers on the first post, are on the same price range, so why should I set numbers? It won't help in any way.
Box volume? It depends to the woofer, Michael Chua states for 830869 that works good at 20 liters, seas ca22 works well in 35 liters etc, the volume will not be a problem for a single 8inch woofer per side I don't expect to be a problem.
Efficiency? Depends on the woofer, the rest of the drivers will be paded to match the efficiency of the woofer.
Bass extension since I already said that I want something quick no need for extended bass, since this will slow things down
Also about the price, since we don't live in the same country, we don't have the same retail price. I thing that the woofers on the first post, are on the same price range, so why should I set numbers? It won't help in any way.
I'm working right now with the sb23NBAC, but not has the time to measure its T&S as I'm waiting a resitor fro a german shop for 2 months due to some out of stock issues !
Quite good sound listened sealed FR. It has better Le than the RS225, slighty better Le than its brothers CAC and NAC. The RS225 is smoother in the break ups but due to the mid you have there will be no problem with a low 6DB or LR12 imho. But the logic would be you go with the NRX.
If I had more monney I had choose the Vistaon Ken Newton advised though low spl. The 8" discovery you mentione is used by Troels Gravsen in the design I inputed fe posts above and have a great advantage : you have all the filter datas in the filter T. Gravsen kindly shares and it has the greater Sd as he inputed already. Be aware the T&S from SB have to be measured as it slighty differs from the datasheet, mostly the Vas. Btw AUdioexcite has measured the sb23NRX T&S
.Micheal Chua used the 830869 only in 2-way constructions, more ppl says it's better for pure woofer duty (like bass for a 3-way) than for midbass in 2-way.
It's inexpensive, half the price of SEAS CA22 for example.
I pulled the trigger for the Peerles for my next 3-way (also dual woofer) project but unfortunately their boxes are not ready yet.
It's inexpensive, half the price of SEAS CA22 for example.
I pulled the trigger for the Peerles for my next 3-way (also dual woofer) project but unfortunately their boxes are not ready yet.
So you're basically saying that you'll take any woofer you like (for whatever reasons) and then adapt the entire design to what that woofer needs work alright?
I am not quite sure what you mean by "quick" bass. However, I believe what you are referring to is not primarily a question of bass extension, but depends on things like group delay, mechanical losses and possibly even on non-linear distortion.
There may be subtle price differences between distributors, but nothing substantial. Can you afford a $100 woofer? $300? $500? More?
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