Help chosing high SPL drivers for 3way classic loudspeaker

Isn't Xmax calculated as (voice coil height - pole-piece height)/2, which in BG-40's case is (12mm-8mm)/2 = 2mm? Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm using the same webpage and data that you've given in post#1. Besides, the exact wording used is also "excursion limit", in place of "linear excursion".


You were right, Xlin is 2mm
 

Attachments

  • Capturebgs40.JPG
    Capturebgs40.JPG
    67.7 KB · Views: 303
Oh well, took a shot. :(

Not for many folks, me included, so please learn a bit about arrays before committing: https://web.archive.org/web/20070221101021/http://www.audiodiycentral.com/resource/pdf/nflawp.pdf


I mean, im not discarding them either, i knew from the get go it would break my budget one way or another :)

So if i take them.. and we use satori..

Faital w8n8-150 > 300eur


SB Acoustics TW29RN-B-8 > 270eur

Thats 570 eur total, if i convince them to charge without VAT since im nonEU citizen, thats -20% so total would be ~455 eur

I also found these
SB Acoustics SB29RDNC-C000-4 https://www.lautsprechershop.de/pdf/sbacoustics/sbacoustics_satori_tw29rn_b_8.pdf



But they are 4ohms, but cost 60eur each..


Realistically speaking, how much XO would cost for all of this ? 100e ?
 
Last edited:
Hi Zoidberg,

Just another idea for tweeter. Aspecially when you are going to here loud ...
Sica LP90.28.N92
Ity from the Sica studio series; 8ohms and play very well and can run very loud.
Affordable - i took my from TLHP.fr
Take a look at it ! ��
 
Ok, i made another revision of project, focusing more on whats available etc..


Option 1:

Phi by Klang + Ton

phi.jpg



Pros:
Fully available schematics for box, cheap, crossover layout (and simple at that) i can source all parts locally and do everything myself.

Cons:
Mid/High array is not the best in world.

====

Option 2:

Original 3way design with midwoofer and tweeter from Sica



Tweeter:
Dome tweeter Sica LP90.28/N92, 8 ohm, 28 mm voice coil , 90 mm front plate

Midwoofer:

1 - Sica 8L2SL - Boutique Haut-parleurs & Audio DIY

Decent linear response from 500hz to 2khz with desired SPL @ 95dm

2- Sica 8N2.5PL - Boutique Haut-parleurs & Audio DIY

Kinda the same, just slightly better.

3 - Sica 8K3PL - Boutique Haut-parleurs & Audio DIY

Even better.

Pros:
Not to expensive (but more expensive than option 1), i can source Sica speakers locally at decent price.

Cons:
Will need to re engineer box and crossover, more complex crossover which, im going to be honest i dont know how.




@newvirus You asked me about room size, and its aprox W 4m - L 6m - H 2.8m total ~70-75m^2

Also i plan on buying a Single Ended Class A Tube amp, kinda makes sense with such high SPL, it would be a waster otherwise..
What do you guys think ? To be honest, im leaning more to Phi by Klan + Ton, simply because i have everything to build it myself, box design, crossover design, and array with those 6x FSX 5 is really affordable.

Hi Zoidberg,

Just another idea for tweeter. Aspecially when you are going to here loud ...
Sica LP90.28.N92
Ity from the Sica studio series; 8ohms and play very well and can run very loud.
Affordable - i took my from TLHP.fr
Take a look at it ! ��


You are kinda a magical wizard or something, i actually found a distributor in my country that doesn't just sell SAL speakers :)
 
Last edited:
Only the box volume matters, mostly. If you think it's going to get too big, you could make a less deep (thin) box with a wide baffle area to get the same volume rather easily (since you're not using horns etc).

110dB is at 20W (2mm Xmax) and a 1m distance. For doubling of distance, reduce the SPL by 6dB. I must say that this is what the software (WINISD) shows and is subject to the accuracy of the driver parameters. DrZoidberg, I suggest you download something similar (if you haven't) so that you could try different ideas before doing anything.


Hey Virus,
Do you have some software for crossover aswell or maybe some general goto YT video ?
 
Do you have some software for crossover aswell or maybe some general goto YT video ?

No, not for crossover, only electrical networks in general. There are software packages like VituixCAD that simulate speakers and crossover along with all related measurements. You may want one of those kinds, or check this thread on crossovers by AllenB.
Introduction to designing crossovers without measurement

I am more of an active crossover person, thinking of Doing It Myself, a 1990s style digital processor with 2-way/3-way crossings, EQ and delay for all 8 channels. Anything passive, I would just buy and modify accordingly, though it's not a method suitable for all.

If you want things to be technically correct, it's important to be able to measure things somehow (e.g. indoors / outdoors using SPL meter/computer). Software alone doesn't work well because any simulation is only as good as the models it uses. Alternatively, you may go for what "sounds good" to your ears.
 
Option 1 - or: step 1 ? :eek:

something in "quick & dirty"
as it is easy to built and the main part is still there....


Emm, Option 1, as in Project 1 :)

There will be many steps but i can handle them as there are detailed instructions in magazine, which i found online. Tbh, im leaning more and more to Phi project, cost and detailed instructions are kinda very important to me at this moment. Maybe next project will be with some better driver/design.



No, not for crossover, only electrical networks in general. There are software packages like VituixCAD that simulate speakers and crossover along with all related measurements. You may want one of those kinds, or check this thread on crossovers by AllenB.
Introduction to designing crossovers without measurement

I am more of an active crossover person, thinking of Doing It Myself, a 1990s style digital processor with 2-way/3-way crossings, EQ and delay for all 8 channels. Anything passive, I would just buy and modify accordingly, though it's not a method suitable for all.

If you want things to be technically correct, it's important to be able to measure things somehow (e.g. indoors / outdoors using SPL meter/computer). Software alone doesn't work well because any simulation is only as good as the models it uses. Alternatively, you may go for what "sounds good" to your ears.


Thanks man, i knew it from the start its one of those things you just have to teach yourself about it and practice practice practice... I know active crossovers are better, maybe one day il dare myself to design a tube amp with active crossover, we will see... for now i will keep it "simple" with passive crossover and a tube amp (maybe some low power solid state, i will see whats available on second hand market atm)

Btw, where do you put active XO ? infront of preamp, after, or after power amp ? Is there only one correct way or it depends ? Kinda makes sense to put it after preamp and before power amp.



One more question :) Do you know some tube amp that is cheap and decent quality, under 300e, brand new ?
 
I mean, im not discarding them either, i knew from the get go it would break my budget one way or another :)

Realistically speaking, how much XO would cost for all of this ? 100e ?

Understood, just wanted to make sure you're aware that short of the 'infinite' kind of array it's often an acquired 'taste' if not listening from farther away than typical.

No clue since typically I used whatever 2nd order XO part # Altec, JBL, etc., spec'd or normally just used 1st order PIO caps for 'el cheapo' [very inexpensive] multi-ways for duplex, apartment, dwellers that couldn't turn them up loud enough to [normally] blow them up.
 
Kinda makes sense to put it after preamp and before power amp.

One more question :) Do you know some tube amp that is cheap and decent quality, under 300e, brand new ?

Yes, just before the power stages. Coming to tubes, I have no idea, maybe someone else who knows (there are many) could share some information.

If you're not very confident about doing it all by yourself, just copy a design that is properly documented (like the ones you found). Pay attention to details so that your copy is accurate enough to minimise any deviations. What's most important is to be able to enjoy what you build.