Ah, interesting to know. That certainly sounds like the kind of thing that would be inclined to sympathetically vibrate at certain frequencies.
It would be marvellous to be able to send both my Audax drivers away to be restored. Replacements seem to be a no go. If I ever see them for sale, it’s always the J variants, with small magnets, which I don’t think would work. Or would they? I don’t know enough to be able to say for sure.
My units appear to be modified by the manufacturer too, instead of Audax stickers on the back they say Celef. I can’t know to what extent they were though, but either way, it would be ideal to not replace them and too have the, restored.
If anyone does know of anyone with a spare pair of these gathering dust, large magnet ones, ( I think H variants?) and without shrunken surrounds I’d be interested to buy them to see if they’d work.
More pertinently though, in the likely event that I can’t get to the bottom of this infuriating resonance myself, could anyone suggest a good uk based expert that I could send these to to be restored?
It would be marvellous to be able to send both my Audax drivers away to be restored. Replacements seem to be a no go. If I ever see them for sale, it’s always the J variants, with small magnets, which I don’t think would work. Or would they? I don’t know enough to be able to say for sure.
My units appear to be modified by the manufacturer too, instead of Audax stickers on the back they say Celef. I can’t know to what extent they were though, but either way, it would be ideal to not replace them and too have the, restored.
If anyone does know of anyone with a spare pair of these gathering dust, large magnet ones, ( I think H variants?) and without shrunken surrounds I’d be interested to buy them to see if they’d work.
More pertinently though, in the likely event that I can’t get to the bottom of this infuriating resonance myself, could anyone suggest a good uk based expert that I could send these to to be restored?
Having another push in and out of the cones to listen for scraping, if I use two fingers either side of the dust cap, there is no scraping, but if use one finger at different points on where the dust cap attaches to the cone, in some areas, it scrapes, on others it doesn’t. So this would suggest it’s not centred. The thing is though, I’m having to push the cone far more than it will be moving in use. These are being implemented as squawkers, and the cone’s movement is imperceptible during use even at high volume. I have to push it in at least a centimetre to get a scrape. So although my push test would identify the cones to be uncentred, it also suggests that there couldn’t surely be scraping causing the noise.
Have you tried backing off the screw tightness?
I once had a driver or two that when fixed with very tight screws, distorted the frame enough to cause audible distortion like what occurs with a rubbing coil, or piece of rubbish in the gap.
In my case this was a midwoofer, but also an Audax style tweeter with detachable faceplate. When over tight the short faceplate mounting screws would distort the faceplate and whole dome assembly, imperceptibly by eye, but the difference could be easily heard
Maybe pertinent, but "Celef" is the name of a member here.
Is Celef an audio company? I dont know. Or are they modified by our own Celef? Who knows?
I once had a guitar cab, with one dodgy driver. It was used and had seen a couple of years gigging fortnightly.
This one 10" needed a touch of percussive maintenance, every now and then, and the buzzing stopped.
Another had the tinsel coil lead buzzing off the cone, as the epoxy had parted from the aluminium cone.
I once had a driver or two that when fixed with very tight screws, distorted the frame enough to cause audible distortion like what occurs with a rubbing coil, or piece of rubbish in the gap.
In my case this was a midwoofer, but also an Audax style tweeter with detachable faceplate. When over tight the short faceplate mounting screws would distort the faceplate and whole dome assembly, imperceptibly by eye, but the difference could be easily heard
Maybe pertinent, but "Celef" is the name of a member here.
Is Celef an audio company? I dont know. Or are they modified by our own Celef? Who knows?
I once had a guitar cab, with one dodgy driver. It was used and had seen a couple of years gigging fortnightly.
This one 10" needed a touch of percussive maintenance, every now and then, and the buzzing stopped.
Another had the tinsel coil lead buzzing off the cone, as the epoxy had parted from the aluminium cone.
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This is really interesting, I’m going to try this!
Celef is the company of Stuart Tyler, before he went on to establish the Proac brand. Fine examples of English speaker design from the golden seventies. Not to be confused with the thin walled cabinet BBC approach though, cabinet s are extremely think and doubled thickness in some places. These were top of the line efforts on their day, yet, fortunately for me, because barely anyone knows what Celefs are and how rare and formidable they are, they go under the radar and I got mine for 150! I reckon these would compete with newer speakers costing thousands. There’s a pair for sale, also I. Glasgow, which mis uncanny given that there were only ten pairs made. His asking price of £399 is still an absolute bargain. But I doubt he’ll get that for these particularly because his market is even further narrowed to folk that know what these are, and are I within driving distance. Worth a drive to Glasgow from any end of Britain I’d say though!
I’ll see if loosening a screw helps and report back. Thanks!
By the way, how come you get a St. George’s Cross and I have to get a Union flag?
Another thought. Rather than an AC signal; what about a battery? If you removed the driver and placed it facing up (magnet on table top); have a light source and magnifying glass handy. Maybe just 1.5 Volt DC (AA, C or D) battery would work. That would either raise or lower the cone and VC assembly depending on polarity. Obviously you don't want too much DC through the coil (I did NOT do the math on voltage vs current vs DCR, etc). Also, this would have to be directly connected as any capacitor would block the DC. The idea is that if you can raise or lower the assembly electrically while observing the VC, former etc.; maybe you could see an obvious problem such as warping, loose VC winds, etc...just a thought. I do use AA cells to do polarity checks on drivers that have no + or - designations on their terminals.
I have seen frames get warped also; especially cheap plastic or stamped steel ones. I did have this happen a few times. A strong argument for a thicker frame, preferably cast metal. More mounting screws distribute the forces more evenly as well rather than just 4. Another reason to use T-nuts or similar, even a torque limiting driver, alternating tightening patterns, etc. all help minimize chances of frame bending. When I had this happen a few times; I did get some nasties; I realized I had over-tightened and mis-aligned the frame. Backing everything off and then much more careful tightening sequence solved that problem; no permanent damage at all...lucky for sure!
I have been to England and Scotland both. When you tour Edinburgh Castle, the tour guide liked to joke and point out that the English lion was sitting or lying down while the Scottish lion was at the ready in a semi-attack stance! Ha, thought was typical Scots humor! I am German and Scot and Welsh mix so I guess that allows me to have a joke about it all!??
Is that not a St. George's cross? If so, go to your profile and pick the flag of England.
Why would I ever do that?! I’m Scottish! Ha. What you see there, the blue and white one, is the Scottish flag, the St. Andrew’s Cross, or “Saltire”. The St. George’s Cross is the English Flag.
I’m new on here and when I signed up, it selected the United Kingdom for me and I was lumped with the controversial Union Flag. It was only when I saw our English friend Monogenerator had a St. George’s Cross that I wondered how he could have a specifically English flag and not have to endure the British flag like me. I figured it out though. You can select England or Scotland instead of just vaguely the United Kingdom in the profile settings.
And quite right Oldspkrguy. A joke about it all is what I’m doing here. We are all descended from the same people. If any European picks any guy from a thousand years ago, I think every other European can trace their family tree back to that same guy! Just one big family. I found out these statistics Recently when I was intrigued to discover that I was a direct descents from Charlamagne. This is from the first Erskine in Scotland being a Henry de Erskine, a Flemish knight given the barony of the town in Scotland called Erskine, so him becoming Henry de Erskine. He was married to Marie de Montford, a Norman noble lady who was a direct descendant of Charlamagne. But then I found out that almost everyone in Europe today is also descended from Charlamagne. ��
This is exemplified by the old Scottish saying, “We’re a’ jock Tamson’s bairns” which translates to “we’re all gods children”.
Anyway, enough about bloody flags. We’re way off topic here! I now have my St. Andrew’s Cross. Balance has been restored to the universe.
I’ll try see if any kind of screw tightness adjusting can solve this. Otherwise I’m counting on Wembley speakers to pull through and say they can take them in for restoration.
I’m new on here and when I signed up, it selected the United Kingdom for me and I was lumped with the controversial Union Flag. It was only when I saw our English friend Monogenerator had a St. George’s Cross that I wondered how he could have a specifically English flag and not have to endure the British flag like me. I figured it out though. You can select England or Scotland instead of just vaguely the United Kingdom in the profile settings.
And quite right Oldspkrguy. A joke about it all is what I’m doing here. We are all descended from the same people. If any European picks any guy from a thousand years ago, I think every other European can trace their family tree back to that same guy! Just one big family. I found out these statistics Recently when I was intrigued to discover that I was a direct descents from Charlamagne. This is from the first Erskine in Scotland being a Henry de Erskine, a Flemish knight given the barony of the town in Scotland called Erskine, so him becoming Henry de Erskine. He was married to Marie de Montford, a Norman noble lady who was a direct descendant of Charlamagne. But then I found out that almost everyone in Europe today is also descended from Charlamagne. ��
This is exemplified by the old Scottish saying, “We’re a’ jock Tamson’s bairns” which translates to “we’re all gods children”.
Anyway, enough about bloody flags. We’re way off topic here! I now have my St. Andrew’s Cross. Balance has been restored to the universe.
I’ll try see if any kind of screw tightness adjusting can solve this. Otherwise I’m counting on Wembley speakers to pull through and say they can take them in for restoration.
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Colour me confused. Go read what you typed and you'll see why I typed what I did.
OK, more fun here! I am supposed to be directly related to HM QE I...A very fiery red headed Tudor that had heads roll!!! Seriously; Why don't we have a new thread about all of our very favorite drivers at every price point and why we think so...!!???? I can be very outspoken; just get over it OK? Anyone besides me want to start this new thread or should I ????
Cal, I think you may well have been confused. It was me he asked how I'd got a St. Andrew's Cross.
Aye Cal, I'm now confused about what it is that I wrote that confused you. I asked how our English republican freind got to get a at George's cross and I had to have a union flag. Then noticing Galu had a at Andrews cross, I asked him how he managed to get it. Just wondered how everyone seemed to get a nation specific flag apart from me is all.
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