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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
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#11 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, B.C.
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#12 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Vt
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Here is a crude drawing of my crossovers from what I can see. If you can give any feedback or comments etc I’m all ears. Remember I’ve been out of the game for a long time and have forgotten a lot.
The Low Pass looks like a positive lead to a .85 air core leading to two parallel 10uf capacitors to a 2.49 resister then negative The High Pass looks like positive to two parallel capacitors (2uf and 4.7uf) then a .47 air core to negative and a 3.01ohm resistor to tweeter positive lead then a 10ohm resistor back to negative. crossover.pdf - Google Drive Low pass components are .85 mh air core 10uf capacitors (2) 2.49 ohm resistor High pass components .47mh air core 4.7uf capacitor 2uf capacitor 3.01 ohm resistor 10 ohm resistor Last edited by Tgf05354; 21st January 2021 at 04:45 PM. |
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#13 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Hi, I would replace the two caps in line with the tweeter with one 6.8 uF/250V film cap, only if they are effectively in parallel ( if it was C-L-C, i.e. a 3rd order crossover, and not a C-L...).
Also the woofer cap...22uF ( standard, but you may find 20 uF) single capacitor is better than two. In this case you don't need a film cap. I mean, you can go Polypropilene if you don't mind spending 10/20 $ for a cap. 6.8 uF/250 V goes at about 2/3 $ ( phisical store, no boutique brand)
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there’s no staying at home when you do not have one |
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#14 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Vt
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Thanks, can you tell me what the crossover frequency point is and what slope? I'm going to try and post some actual pictures of the crossovers.
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#15 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Ooooh it should be around 2k5 Hz as usual
![]() Really, IDK! The slopes....slooooopes....the resistor on the leg of the 20 uF cap suggests a mild action of the cap itself, which means lesser attenuation...err...not so steep as there was no R. It goes together with the damping wanted for the speaker+box, so you might want to change its value ( hint: don't do it! ![]()
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there’s no staying at home when you do not have one |
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#16 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Vt
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#17 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portsmouth UK
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I can't see anything there, my friend. You need to upload images to the forum with the paperclip thing in the reply box.
Here's what your circuit should be. 2kHz crossover, 4dB less bass below 500Hz than Lynn's circuit which is 3kHz crossover. But it works well enough, IMO. If you are happy with the bass, I would leave well alone.
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Best Regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK. |
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#18 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Vt
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HPcrossover.jpg
LPcrossover.jpg crossover.pdf [ATTACH]0001.jpg[/ATTACH] Am I wrong in thinking leave well enough alone? Last edited by Tgf05354; 21st January 2021 at 06:38 PM. |
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#19 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portsmouth UK
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Your diagram is wrong!
![]() The 10 ohm is across the red and white tweeter wires, No? Good components. Functional wiring. Looks OK.
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Best Regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK. |
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#20 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Vt
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Yes, you are correct, my schematic is wrong. It took me a bit to wrap my head around the wiring, put the second 10ohm resister crosses the tweeter + and - . Learning a lot here, very grateful. Looks like I will leave it alone although I may rewire the speakers to the crossover boards to make it neater. New voice coils due next week.
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