Rebuilding old 3-way pair, but really don’t know where to start.
Hello all
I’m am hoping this does not get too long as I do try to keep things short, but it probably will so please forgive me for that.
To start, I have a set of pretty old white van speakers that without going into all the details were fine for me for at the time I got them as due to certain reasons that would be long to go into, I was blowing the drivers in them pretty regularly which kinda worked out at the time as this was well before the internet and the way things work today and so as each one did and I finally had a few extra bucks I would just pop into the RadioShack that was about a mile away which usually had ones that could work in stock and just kept replacing them as I could afford to.
The reason I used them this way has long past and so for probably the past 20 years I have been using them for whatever speakers would continue to work for the rear speakers for the Yamaha driven surround sound system for my TV system.
At any rate, as the casings are plenty good enough for my needs, I thought I would get back to them to see if I could get all new drivers and without going to crazy cost wise hopefully ones that could upgrade the sound quality a bit, but while I understand some of the parts, to the parts to select to use for this, I hardly know enough so I was really hoping some people here might be able to help.
Of these things I think I understand the least is how to select a crossover, but for that I am guessing which speakers I decide to use is going to be relevant (?), and then I am guessing the amp that is going to be driving all this is going to be somewhat relevant to the speaker selection (?).
If that is true the amp is also a fairly old Yamaha HTR-5950 that most of the time I am using in a surround sound mode, but on occasion I like to use it in the six-speaker mode to listen to music as well.
The specs I think would be relevant for it via its owner’s manual are:
Built-in 6-Channel Power Amplifier
Minimum RMS Output Power: (0.7% THD, 1 kHz, 8ohms)
Front: 110 W + 110 W
Center: 110 W
Surround: 110 W + 110 W
Surround back: 110W
Past that for now the other info I think also might be useful for the moment is the inside speaker casing size which inside is 13-3/4” wide, 25-1/2” tall, 10” deep and the thickness of the panels is about ¾” and look to be made of glued pressboard for all of them.
For the round hole sizes for the drivers, they are: 11” for the woofer which even though is 11”, for what I have I in them part number wise is saying is a 12” speaker and is mounted in from the front. The midrange hole is 4” and the PN info on the driver says its 4” and is also mount from the front, and the hole for the tweeter is 3-1/8, although via the drivers PN its calling a 1”. That driver is also mounted through the front.
I think the only other relevant thing might be is that for one of the few nice things I own is a 200 Watt B&W subwoofer for this system, so while I’m not saying I don’t need any low-end out of these, a least they don’t have to get into any kick you in the gut ranges as trust me the B&W unit does that plenty well.
Over all in general I am really hoping not to spend more then $50.00 for any one driver.
So just as I figured I knew this would be long, but I think it has all it might need to get started, and I also know this is asking a lot of people on the post board, but if there is anyone who could help me out with things from this point it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hello all
I’m am hoping this does not get too long as I do try to keep things short, but it probably will so please forgive me for that.
To start, I have a set of pretty old white van speakers that without going into all the details were fine for me for at the time I got them as due to certain reasons that would be long to go into, I was blowing the drivers in them pretty regularly which kinda worked out at the time as this was well before the internet and the way things work today and so as each one did and I finally had a few extra bucks I would just pop into the RadioShack that was about a mile away which usually had ones that could work in stock and just kept replacing them as I could afford to.
The reason I used them this way has long past and so for probably the past 20 years I have been using them for whatever speakers would continue to work for the rear speakers for the Yamaha driven surround sound system for my TV system.
At any rate, as the casings are plenty good enough for my needs, I thought I would get back to them to see if I could get all new drivers and without going to crazy cost wise hopefully ones that could upgrade the sound quality a bit, but while I understand some of the parts, to the parts to select to use for this, I hardly know enough so I was really hoping some people here might be able to help.
Of these things I think I understand the least is how to select a crossover, but for that I am guessing which speakers I decide to use is going to be relevant (?), and then I am guessing the amp that is going to be driving all this is going to be somewhat relevant to the speaker selection (?).
If that is true the amp is also a fairly old Yamaha HTR-5950 that most of the time I am using in a surround sound mode, but on occasion I like to use it in the six-speaker mode to listen to music as well.
The specs I think would be relevant for it via its owner’s manual are:
Built-in 6-Channel Power Amplifier
Minimum RMS Output Power: (0.7% THD, 1 kHz, 8ohms)
Front: 110 W + 110 W
Center: 110 W
Surround: 110 W + 110 W
Surround back: 110W
Past that for now the other info I think also might be useful for the moment is the inside speaker casing size which inside is 13-3/4” wide, 25-1/2” tall, 10” deep and the thickness of the panels is about ¾” and look to be made of glued pressboard for all of them.
For the round hole sizes for the drivers, they are: 11” for the woofer which even though is 11”, for what I have I in them part number wise is saying is a 12” speaker and is mounted in from the front. The midrange hole is 4” and the PN info on the driver says its 4” and is also mount from the front, and the hole for the tweeter is 3-1/8, although via the drivers PN its calling a 1”. That driver is also mounted through the front.
I think the only other relevant thing might be is that for one of the few nice things I own is a 200 Watt B&W subwoofer for this system, so while I’m not saying I don’t need any low-end out of these, a least they don’t have to get into any kick you in the gut ranges as trust me the B&W unit does that plenty well.
Over all in general I am really hoping not to spend more then $50.00 for any one driver.
So just as I figured I knew this would be long, but I think it has all it might need to get started, and I also know this is asking a lot of people on the post board, but if there is anyone who could help me out with things from this point it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Give us some pictures please.
TBH the boxes you have may not be worth working with as the pressboard they are made from has a definite shelf life and they may be close to falling apart.
I get where you are coming from tho because I'm a tinkerer but sometimes I have to simply chuck stuff out.
However things can be done with enough woodworking glue and offcuts. Most important question from my point of view is does the 4" midrange have a separate enclosure or is it just a hole in the front baffle?
If it is just a hole in the baffle things get harder if any sort of sound quality is to be obtained [ personal opinion there] and the work to do gets greater which usually equals more money/ expense
TBH the boxes you have may not be worth working with as the pressboard they are made from has a definite shelf life and they may be close to falling apart.
I get where you are coming from tho because I'm a tinkerer but sometimes I have to simply chuck stuff out.
However things can be done with enough woodworking glue and offcuts. Most important question from my point of view is does the 4" midrange have a separate enclosure or is it just a hole in the front baffle?
If it is just a hole in the baffle things get harder if any sort of sound quality is to be obtained [ personal opinion there] and the work to do gets greater which usually equals more money/ expense
Something that I would be pretty sure at least once in its lifetime has been ****** on by something or someone I might suspect.
At least I can say for the route I am looking go that no matter what is sounds like, that will not have been the case.
Hello Moondag55
I have some pics that I have been taking of things to this point as its a easer way to just record info I wanted to, so when I can get a chance and if its possible I will post them.
In the mean time in response to your questions, despite for all the time I described, the boxes have always been in normal indoor conditions and in normally year round HVAC controlled rooms of the house and basically have been doubling as a form of furniture for things to be put on, so at least from all I can see of their condition there is nothing I would put into any levels of age degradation and even for the front foam cloth speaker covers as well as the rubber grommets that hold those in are in just about what I would call conditions of new.
Essentially in all ways I would agree with you that spending any time or money on boxes that were not could is a waist of both, but as these are in perfectly good shape for my needs in my opinion, is in part largely why I am even doing this.
For the next, for what I can understand of you question the midrange in not in any kind of a box to itself, but just installed into one of the round openings in the front of the speaker like the other two are.
If by todays standards they are best to have a box around them behind that even in that kind of a setup, given the access the woofer hole gives me that could probably be something I could do.
Having said that and perhaps I could have added this to my OP but I was trying to keep it short, my thoughts are if there are choices that could be made within the budget I am looking to work with that could wise choices over one over the other that could be recommend, those are the kinds of things I was hoping I could get help on.
Overall as pretty much all the drivers are either old and so those have degraded, or not working at all as they were blown and I just never replaced them when I stopped needing the speakers for their previous purpose, I would say pretty almost anything I do to them is going to better, but its just if for say (1) $50.00 driver is better than another and especially say per this particular type & design of casement set or some other thing makes it so, then why not pick that one.
Lastly just to add that I would not say I am looking for any kind of top shelf ultra HiFi level of quality here as if that was the case I would just go get new speakers, but as I have these boxes and also still want to use them as the furniture they are being used for, I figured that I would do to them what ever is the best that could be done to the them for money I wanted to spend, and as what ever that is, is going to be better than they are now, its all good.
Thanks
I have some pics that I have been taking of things to this point as its a easer way to just record info I wanted to, so when I can get a chance and if its possible I will post them.
In the mean time in response to your questions, despite for all the time I described, the boxes have always been in normal indoor conditions and in normally year round HVAC controlled rooms of the house and basically have been doubling as a form of furniture for things to be put on, so at least from all I can see of their condition there is nothing I would put into any levels of age degradation and even for the front foam cloth speaker covers as well as the rubber grommets that hold those in are in just about what I would call conditions of new.
Essentially in all ways I would agree with you that spending any time or money on boxes that were not could is a waist of both, but as these are in perfectly good shape for my needs in my opinion, is in part largely why I am even doing this.
For the next, for what I can understand of you question the midrange in not in any kind of a box to itself, but just installed into one of the round openings in the front of the speaker like the other two are.
If by todays standards they are best to have a box around them behind that even in that kind of a setup, given the access the woofer hole gives me that could probably be something I could do.
Having said that and perhaps I could have added this to my OP but I was trying to keep it short, my thoughts are if there are choices that could be made within the budget I am looking to work with that could wise choices over one over the other that could be recommend, those are the kinds of things I was hoping I could get help on.
Overall as pretty much all the drivers are either old and so those have degraded, or not working at all as they were blown and I just never replaced them when I stopped needing the speakers for their previous purpose, I would say pretty almost anything I do to them is going to better, but its just if for say (1) $50.00 driver is better than another and especially say per this particular type & design of casement set or some other thing makes it so, then why not pick that one.
Lastly just to add that I would not say I am looking for any kind of top shelf ultra HiFi level of quality here as if that was the case I would just go get new speakers, but as I have these boxes and also still want to use them as the furniture they are being used for, I figured that I would do to them what ever is the best that could be done to the them for money I wanted to spend, and as what ever that is, is going to be better than they are now, its all good.
Thanks
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Hello all
As I was asked I have posted a few of the pics I that I have taken so far for the purpose of tracking info.
For a few notes on these:
For #2 while it doesn’t relate to any current drivers, I posted this as it’s the only tag info the speakers have per what the might have been, but as said they are all gone, although the main speaker connections, fuse and inline caps in pic 5 are original and still in there.
Also btw, the trim pots in that pic are not connected to anything anymore and were removed in pic 6 so I could get a pic of them. For reference the pot on the left was for the mid and the pot on the right was connected to the twitter circuit which clearly at one point became well done.
If there are any other shots people would think could help I could possible take those.
Also btw, while I have listed some of this before, here is my current sheet for the rest of the things I have been recording:
Brand: Acoustic Linear Systems
Model 520 liquid cooled speakers
Max Power 200Watts
Freq. Response: 43Hz to 25Khz
Speaker casing hole sizes: (all round)
Tweeter: 3-1/8"
Midrange: 4"
Woofer: 11"
Open Relief port = casing hole 3-1/4", insert = 3-1/8"
Current replacement speaker sizes per their PN:
(Note, all mounted outside to face panel)
Twitter: 1"
Midrange: 4"
Woofer: 12"
Thanks for any help
As I was asked I have posted a few of the pics I that I have taken so far for the purpose of tracking info.
For a few notes on these:
For #2 while it doesn’t relate to any current drivers, I posted this as it’s the only tag info the speakers have per what the might have been, but as said they are all gone, although the main speaker connections, fuse and inline caps in pic 5 are original and still in there.
Also btw, the trim pots in that pic are not connected to anything anymore and were removed in pic 6 so I could get a pic of them. For reference the pot on the left was for the mid and the pot on the right was connected to the twitter circuit which clearly at one point became well done.
If there are any other shots people would think could help I could possible take those.
Also btw, while I have listed some of this before, here is my current sheet for the rest of the things I have been recording:
Brand: Acoustic Linear Systems
Model 520 liquid cooled speakers
Max Power 200Watts
Freq. Response: 43Hz to 25Khz
Speaker casing hole sizes: (all round)
Tweeter: 3-1/8"
Midrange: 4"
Woofer: 11"
Open Relief port = casing hole 3-1/4", insert = 3-1/8"
Current replacement speaker sizes per their PN:
(Note, all mounted outside to face panel)
Twitter: 1"
Midrange: 4"
Woofer: 12"
Thanks for any help
What do you want from the help? Maximum noise or better quality?
Having helped mates with similar speaker rebuilds all I can say is that it's neither easy or cheap to get good sound from the boxes without a lot of work.
I have done it for good mates in exchange for trades labour and skills tho.
I'm happy to give some pointers and advice but it would be in a very general sense.
What are your woodworking skills like? Tools available?
If those boxes are like all the ones I have played with they are assembled without glue blocks at the junctions and rattle like crazy when they get a little bit loud and the panels vibrate badly.
Got a hardware store nearby that sells hardwood corner moulding and strong glue such as Elmers?
Having helped mates with similar speaker rebuilds all I can say is that it's neither easy or cheap to get good sound from the boxes without a lot of work.
I have done it for good mates in exchange for trades labour and skills tho.
I'm happy to give some pointers and advice but it would be in a very general sense.
What are your woodworking skills like? Tools available?
If those boxes are like all the ones I have played with they are assembled without glue blocks at the junctions and rattle like crazy when they get a little bit loud and the panels vibrate badly.
Got a hardware store nearby that sells hardwood corner moulding and strong glue such as Elmers?
Hello Moondog55 and thanks for the efforts in the replies, but for what I am looking for I really don't need help with boxes themselves as I really think for the level of what I am willing to spend and am expecting, I think they will do fine, Then if not I do have plenty of tools and decades actually of skills in that department should the need arise.
So instead and as I mention in the OP, the main thing I could use some help with and as its my weakest point is figuring out the cross over I would like to use, which as I mentioned I am guessing will depend on the speakers I might use so was just thinking some here might know of some good ones to pic from in the price range I mention and hopefully too ones that would work well with the crossover I might end up using.
All in all I could probably pick out the drivers myself alone if that is what I have to do and as the limits created by the hole sizes for each and what I am willing to spend will already narrow that down, but again once I do I don't have the first clue apart from if a cross over is made for 3 speakers or not, as to which one will work best per any combo of drivers I get.
Thanks
Ryan I just reread your post #5
If you are OK with making a new small enclosure for the midrange driver that opens up a much better selection of drivers with better SQ and better power handling.
That said I think you may need to think about a new crossover, even if it an "Off the Shelf" XO from Madisound or Parts Express.
If you are OK with making a new small enclosure for the midrange driver that opens up a much better selection of drivers with better SQ and better power handling.
That said I think you may need to think about a new crossover, even if it an "Off the Shelf" XO from Madisound or Parts Express.
Again thanks for the recommendations Moondog55 and perhaps some things will be explained more in a post I am waiting to have published, but yes I really think help with which crossover to use is what I will need the most.
Also while I have mentioned this I think already...I am not looking for any massively high level of sound quality here, just as best of a plan as I can come for what I am willing to spend and for what I get from that I get from that as I can assure I have faired OK with what these have sounded like for the past 15 some odd years, so for what ever they sound like I am sure it will be better than what I am hearing right now.
So over all there is no need to go really to far into this than need be.
Also while I have mentioned this I think already...I am not looking for any massively high level of sound quality here, just as best of a plan as I can come for what I am willing to spend and for what I get from that I get from that as I can assure I have faired OK with what these have sounded like for the past 15 some odd years, so for what ever they sound like I am sure it will be better than what I am hearing right now.
So over all there is no need to go really to far into this than need be.
You could do worse than using this woofer tho as it should drop right into the existing hole.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC300-8-12-Classic-Woofer-295-320?quantity=1
But I would look to using an open back midrange and making an enclosure for it, in rebuilds for mates I have used plastic half domes I bought but several times I have used friction top tin cans filled with fibre and epoxied to the wood just held in place with some small self tapping screws until the glue sets, you could use roofing silicon too, perhaps even hot melt glue.
Friction top cans because the top design gives you a ready-made flange and a big one is usually around 3 litres in volume which is good for most 4 and 5 inch midrange drivers
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC300-8-12-Classic-Woofer-295-320?quantity=1
But I would look to using an open back midrange and making an enclosure for it, in rebuilds for mates I have used plastic half domes I bought but several times I have used friction top tin cans filled with fibre and epoxied to the wood just held in place with some small self tapping screws until the glue sets, you could use roofing silicon too, perhaps even hot melt glue.
Friction top cans because the top design gives you a ready-made flange and a big one is usually around 3 litres in volume which is good for most 4 and 5 inch midrange drivers
Some posts regarding ways to post images (etc.) have been deleted.
This is what I'd consider essential:
1a) get a measurement mic, e.g. Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for Tablets iPhone iPad and Android.
$20
1b) get an app that works with this, e.g. Audiotool.
$8
1c) get a 3.5mm to RCA adapter that has a fairly long (3+ metre) cable
$5
----
You should get the above (or an equivalent package) no matter what else you do.
Being able to take measurements beats guesswork, and it is only 10% of your budget.
Note - there are many other measurement tools, and some are better for advanced users. I suggest the above cos it is cheap, very noob friendly, and very good at some types of measurements and adjustments.
---
Once you have measuring gear:
The ports in your speakers are probably not tuned right for the replacement woofers, and are also not needed, since you have a sub. So stuff the ports. It doesn't have to be perfect or airtight - old socks or whatever will do.
...then use the measurement mic to dial in the sub to match the mains.
That is:
-play noise through the main speakers (only) and take an "averaging" noise test, while slowly moving the mic across the listening position. Where the mains start to roll off is where you set the crossover point for the sub.
e.g. if the mains drop off sharply below 90Hz, set the sub crossover to about 90Hz.
-then play noise through the main speakers AND sub, and take an "averaging" noise test, while walking the mic across the listening position. Use this to match levels between the sub and main speakers - basically by turning the sub up or down to get the flattest summed response.
You can also experiment with sub placement in this step. Some positions will give better results than others.
---
The above $33 might be all you need to spend.
The rest of your tweaking - bracing, stuffing, fixing the crossovor - might be doable with what you have / free scraps.
---
If you want to try rebuilding the crossover, I'd suggest:
- giving part numbers and/or detailed photos (e.g. that Peerless driver is probably well known, but I can't read the model number).
- give FR plots for the system and individual drivers.
For example, for the Peerless mid, you could hook the driver directly to the amp (no crossover) and play gated noise through it (e.g. 200Hz-20kHz) to show what its raw response is like.
For the tweeter, you'd do the same thing, but play noise an octave higher (2kHz-20kHz)
1a) get a measurement mic, e.g. Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for Tablets iPhone iPad and Android.
$20
1b) get an app that works with this, e.g. Audiotool.
$8
1c) get a 3.5mm to RCA adapter that has a fairly long (3+ metre) cable
$5
----
You should get the above (or an equivalent package) no matter what else you do.
Being able to take measurements beats guesswork, and it is only 10% of your budget.
Note - there are many other measurement tools, and some are better for advanced users. I suggest the above cos it is cheap, very noob friendly, and very good at some types of measurements and adjustments.
---
Once you have measuring gear:
The ports in your speakers are probably not tuned right for the replacement woofers, and are also not needed, since you have a sub. So stuff the ports. It doesn't have to be perfect or airtight - old socks or whatever will do.
...then use the measurement mic to dial in the sub to match the mains.
That is:
-play noise through the main speakers (only) and take an "averaging" noise test, while slowly moving the mic across the listening position. Where the mains start to roll off is where you set the crossover point for the sub.
e.g. if the mains drop off sharply below 90Hz, set the sub crossover to about 90Hz.
-then play noise through the main speakers AND sub, and take an "averaging" noise test, while walking the mic across the listening position. Use this to match levels between the sub and main speakers - basically by turning the sub up or down to get the flattest summed response.
You can also experiment with sub placement in this step. Some positions will give better results than others.
---
The above $33 might be all you need to spend.
The rest of your tweaking - bracing, stuffing, fixing the crossovor - might be doable with what you have / free scraps.
---
If you want to try rebuilding the crossover, I'd suggest:
- giving part numbers and/or detailed photos (e.g. that Peerless driver is probably well known, but I can't read the model number).
- give FR plots for the system and individual drivers.
For example, for the Peerless mid, you could hook the driver directly to the amp (no crossover) and play gated noise through it (e.g. 200Hz-20kHz) to show what its raw response is like.
For the tweeter, you'd do the same thing, but play noise an octave higher (2kHz-20kHz)
Attachments
I've not used many Dayton speakers but I have used this one as a midrange and it's quite good if you use a second order XO in front of it.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-Cone-Midbass-Woofer-8-Ohm-295-416?quantity=1
These come with factory files for working out crossovers and the factory files are near enough IMO for what you want
To keep things simple and easy the prebuilt XO isn't too bad for what you say you want and while not cheap is probably cheaper than designing your own.
Dayton Audio XO3W-375/3K 3-Way Speaker Crossover 375/3,000 Hz
Measuring stuff is supposed to be fun but I find it hard work and not intuitive at all, others find the opposite.
Personally I would simply blank off the port hole with a scrap of ply and some glue but the suggestion to stuff it with a fibre filled sock is also something I have done many times
The combination of 12" woofer with a 4" mid and 1" tweeter is a classic for many reasons.
My personal opinion and experience is that damping the cabinet with glue blocks and battens and stuffing them is the biggest cheap improvement you can do.
Good luck with it.
I'm supposed to be outside working on the roof but I have run out of roofing screws and have to wait until pension day to go buy more so I have time to type and google on your behalf while waiting on glue to dry on my current projects in the shed
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-Cone-Midbass-Woofer-8-Ohm-295-416?quantity=1
These come with factory files for working out crossovers and the factory files are near enough IMO for what you want
To keep things simple and easy the prebuilt XO isn't too bad for what you say you want and while not cheap is probably cheaper than designing your own.
Dayton Audio XO3W-375/3K 3-Way Speaker Crossover 375/3,000 Hz
Measuring stuff is supposed to be fun but I find it hard work and not intuitive at all, others find the opposite.
Personally I would simply blank off the port hole with a scrap of ply and some glue but the suggestion to stuff it with a fibre filled sock is also something I have done many times
The combination of 12" woofer with a 4" mid and 1" tweeter is a classic for many reasons.
My personal opinion and experience is that damping the cabinet with glue blocks and battens and stuffing them is the biggest cheap improvement you can do.
Good luck with it.
I'm supposed to be outside working on the roof but I have run out of roofing screws and have to wait until pension day to go buy more so I have time to type and google on your behalf while waiting on glue to dry on my current projects in the shed
I just double checked that picture HB, all I see is a horn loaded Peerless 25mm tweeter which looks like the old 811647
http://www.d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/811647.pdf
If it is I'd say keep the tweeter as I'd be very happy crossing that at 3kHz to a 4" mid, especially second order
http://www.d-s-t.com.au/data/Peerless/811647.pdf
If it is I'd say keep the tweeter as I'd be very happy crossing that at 3kHz to a 4" mid, especially second order
Hello all
As I just got up to see these responses I just wanted to post to say thanks for all the info and from everyone that has been supplied it and when I get a chance today I review it all.
To touch on one part though was in regards to the measuring mic as I came across those late last night on the PartsExpress website and was very much looking at those for actually another purpose and just wanted to ask if once I were to get all the things needed for that to work for the speaker design and setups after, will this equipment allow me to in to a fairly good detail measure the volume amount of a sound?
The reason I ask and not that I'm complaining but as this thread has gotten as long as it has I figure making it any longer is not going to make it worse, but the reasons why I was not really caring terribly about the quality of the sound and also blowing the drivers in this speaker set back when I did was that I was using the entire stereo system to play and practice along to things when alone as I played the drums from about 15 to the age of 40.
So while I had some money but not say an abundant amount during that time this was the best I could do, but between the volume levels needed for a home stereo system for this, and the distortion amount that would come from one run this way, I was always randomly blowing drivers.
I would also mention as for about the last 5 years of that was on a electrical set (please no stone throwing as I knew that is bad even when I was doing it), and because of the same as above, I used this for the amplification for both.
I would note also that I actually have somewhat of a larger pair of similar speakers with 15" subs I think that were actually the main supplier of the volume that I would be doing the all the same in blowing drivers in as well, but that in their present state now seem to work fairly good, but that I was thinking once I learn the process I might learn on these and as it would probably cost less to do so, then I was going to look into getting those fixed up as well.
So as alluded to, since giving up drumming about 15 years ago I have been using all of these speakers in whatever state they were when I stopped doing this and the amp for a surround sound system for my TV and have used it a lot for that, and for the most part and as I have these current two speakers as the rears and balanced out and down enough their defects did not come out much if at all, its all been good enough for this use.
So to get the point of why I am looking to fix them up now is that as I could just not leave music behind I decided to try learning to play guitar the previous Christmas to this one with first picking up a Yamaha TransAcoustic guitar to start learning on, and then a by July a I bought a Black Strat and since then a lot of other equipment and pedals and other things to play with.
To note, for all I am looking to do and as I have been through that life enough, I have absolutely zero desire to play in a band or out in any way as this is all for my own enjoyment.
So with all this told now, the reason I was asking about this mic and its uses is that one thing I have been looking to try to do but found very hard to do is balance out all the various peddles on my board so that per how they are setup when I turn them on or off can be setup right so the eventual volume is as close to not being changed as possible. Or if this is a better understanding, in general I want as little if hopefully no volume changes out of the final amp made every time I turn either one pedal for some kind of effect on an off, or a combination of them.
In case any reading this might not be aware, while there might be times where someone would want this to not be the case, if that is what they do what this is often referred to as setting up the pedals for “Unitary Volume” or more simply put, the volume going in and despite what ever setting the pedal might have, the volume coming out is the same.
So as this has been pretty hard to get correct by ear at least to the degree I want, which can be compound a lot sometimes as the effects created alter the sounds in so many ways, I have been trying to see if there was some way I could use some kind of measuring equipment to, as was so well put, take the guess work out of all this.
So sorry that was so long, but as typical I just thought it would be helpful info, but for any that know about these mics and the systems they work with, and to finally get to my question...would these also be good for doing what I am describing? Or is that not really within the purpose of either the equipment and or software it works with?
With just to add to that, I don’t say I am looking for ultra-tight measurements of that (or looking to spend the money that could need), but as close as I can get for a reasonably amount of money is what I am looking for.
Thanks
As I just got up to see these responses I just wanted to post to say thanks for all the info and from everyone that has been supplied it and when I get a chance today I review it all.
To touch on one part though was in regards to the measuring mic as I came across those late last night on the PartsExpress website and was very much looking at those for actually another purpose and just wanted to ask if once I were to get all the things needed for that to work for the speaker design and setups after, will this equipment allow me to in to a fairly good detail measure the volume amount of a sound?
The reason I ask and not that I'm complaining but as this thread has gotten as long as it has I figure making it any longer is not going to make it worse, but the reasons why I was not really caring terribly about the quality of the sound and also blowing the drivers in this speaker set back when I did was that I was using the entire stereo system to play and practice along to things when alone as I played the drums from about 15 to the age of 40.
So while I had some money but not say an abundant amount during that time this was the best I could do, but between the volume levels needed for a home stereo system for this, and the distortion amount that would come from one run this way, I was always randomly blowing drivers.
I would also mention as for about the last 5 years of that was on a electrical set (please no stone throwing as I knew that is bad even when I was doing it), and because of the same as above, I used this for the amplification for both.
I would note also that I actually have somewhat of a larger pair of similar speakers with 15" subs I think that were actually the main supplier of the volume that I would be doing the all the same in blowing drivers in as well, but that in their present state now seem to work fairly good, but that I was thinking once I learn the process I might learn on these and as it would probably cost less to do so, then I was going to look into getting those fixed up as well.
So as alluded to, since giving up drumming about 15 years ago I have been using all of these speakers in whatever state they were when I stopped doing this and the amp for a surround sound system for my TV and have used it a lot for that, and for the most part and as I have these current two speakers as the rears and balanced out and down enough their defects did not come out much if at all, its all been good enough for this use.
So to get the point of why I am looking to fix them up now is that as I could just not leave music behind I decided to try learning to play guitar the previous Christmas to this one with first picking up a Yamaha TransAcoustic guitar to start learning on, and then a by July a I bought a Black Strat and since then a lot of other equipment and pedals and other things to play with.
To note, for all I am looking to do and as I have been through that life enough, I have absolutely zero desire to play in a band or out in any way as this is all for my own enjoyment.
So with all this told now, the reason I was asking about this mic and its uses is that one thing I have been looking to try to do but found very hard to do is balance out all the various peddles on my board so that per how they are setup when I turn them on or off can be setup right so the eventual volume is as close to not being changed as possible. Or if this is a better understanding, in general I want as little if hopefully no volume changes out of the final amp made every time I turn either one pedal for some kind of effect on an off, or a combination of them.
In case any reading this might not be aware, while there might be times where someone would want this to not be the case, if that is what they do what this is often referred to as setting up the pedals for “Unitary Volume” or more simply put, the volume going in and despite what ever setting the pedal might have, the volume coming out is the same.
So as this has been pretty hard to get correct by ear at least to the degree I want, which can be compound a lot sometimes as the effects created alter the sounds in so many ways, I have been trying to see if there was some way I could use some kind of measuring equipment to, as was so well put, take the guess work out of all this.
So sorry that was so long, but as typical I just thought it would be helpful info, but for any that know about these mics and the systems they work with, and to finally get to my question...would these also be good for doing what I am describing? Or is that not really within the purpose of either the equipment and or software it works with?
With just to add to that, I don’t say I am looking for ultra-tight measurements of that (or looking to spend the money that could need), but as close as I can get for a reasonably amount of money is what I am looking for.
Thanks
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