Second build - help deciding on speakers/boxes for a 3 way sealed setup

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You could also use a program like "Basta" to simulate what you want to do.
Start with a sketch and see what it might look like.
I´ve been pretty lucky with the simulation and that program; it fitted reality pretty good.
Maybe the TS-parameter of Mark Audio drivers are pretty near to the ones given in the datasheet.
This way you also get a feel for baffle effects (BSC) etc. and learn that your electrical filter is not the resulting acoustical filter.

Prepare for measuring your speaker too. I´d say it´s nearly impossible (especially as an unexperienced) to judge what you´re hearing.
I remember thinking how little treble and bass my speaker has, only to realize that "the little bump" in the mids totally imbalances the whole sound of the speaker.
If you wanna go the DIY route, aka not following some proven design, you should at least account for a Dayton IMM-6 the least. Maybe you can borrow one from a fellow DIYer in the neighbourhood.


Thanks for the advice. I'll have a look at this program. I will definitely measure after every little step. The actual measurements of my current speakers in my room are driving me to this new journey.

actually crossing at 130hz is about perfect....its all about midrange being on one driver...its also about getting vocals all on one driver...Male vocals definitely go lower than 250hz...but I say that 130hz is perfect because....I have my 3 way crossed there and I have a 4" mid....when I crank it....I can barely see it move. So if 4" can handle it....

120hz is THX subwoofer crossover iirc

What is the Intended driver again?


Not sure, starting with a WAV it's probably more indicated to cross higher. With a 3 way maybe things would be different. Anyway I will do active so this is something I can easily adapt.

Intended full range I would say Alpair 7MS. The price is right and I've read only good things about it.
 
No idea regarding the woofer, so I need to rely on your suggestions again. Something that can blend well with the A7MS. Available space in cm is W30, D42, H60, so there are more than 70 liters of volume at hand, hopefully enough to go sealed. Depending on the height of the full-range enclosure, woofer's one can be taller (max combined of 90 cm).
You should find a woofer that works well (sealed) in that volume.
Search around, look here for example:
A compilation of sealed-box woofers for 3-way designs

For a quick look I (and when I´m not at home) I sometimes use online services to check for volumes.
For example google "830667 speakerboxlite"; first link. Then you can click "design box", "volume", choose "sealed" (default) and see what kind of volume you´re getting for different Qs.
A "max flat" sealed tuning for that woofer would be ~62l, so right in the ballpark for your enclosure. (account for at least 4liters for the Alpair 7 but rather listen to Dave´s suggestions!)
Ideally you want a woofer that plays comfortably up til 1k at least because your crossover point isn´t defined yet (250-500Hz or whatever you´ll end up with). Fortunately lots of woofers will do that easily. Even a 12" like the 830669.

If you want to cross higher than 200Hz, you also don´t want a side-mounted woofer, so more a classical 3-way (think JBL or so).
 
But as I said, the 830667 would be fine and there are many other woofers out there that work. The 830668 & 830669 need bigger enclosures.

If you know which Qts-values&Vas-values (Thiele-Small-parameter) you need to get in the ballpark, you could even use the loudspeaker database to search amongs all drivers.(Loudspeaker Database)

Also keep in mind that in an active setup you can always apply a low-shelf or a linkwitz-transform amongst other tricks to work with enclosure that are too small. For starters I´d recommend calculating without Linkwitz transform though.
 
F3 is a useful number for design purposes, but it tells us little about how much bass response we will get. The F10 number is a better estimate of how low the bass will go... F10 is the frequency where the bass has fallen by -10 dB.

A sealed box system will always appear weak on paper if we are comparing F3... but comparing F10 is a more representative comparison.
 
Probably I need to go vented...
hifijim is very right of course.
And again, you have an active setup:
1. you can boost the bass response to your heart´s content.
2. I guess you would be very happy with a sealed 830667. That would be a pretty low playing sealed woofer already and you will be filtering out room resonances long before you even think of boosting.
And yes, the 830667 has quite some headroom excursion-wise.
I guess you´d be deaf or in jail before you run out of xmax.

Of course you can find better drivers also (which are more expensive too).
The 830667 is just an example that could work for you. (and is good bang for the buck)
 
The actual measurements of my current speakers in my room are driving me to this new journey.
Of course I was exaggerating at least a little in my last post but don´t get fooled by graphs too much. The 830667 sealed in 62l has an F10 of about 30Hz which is probably plenty for most. Room gain might fill in more than you like.
I know it would definitely be too much for my neighbours too handle for sure;-)

What part of the measurements of your current speakers did you not like?
What kind of bass extension are you thinking of and what is your room size and geometry?
 
So F10 it's a better estimate, i'll take that into account.

I found another speaker that was advised by the user waxx before, that would fit well with a sealed box, the Scanspeak 26W/8534G00. I'll try to compare with the Pearless driver you mentioned in a 75L enclosure.

Regarding the questions:

My actual setup (TABAQ large with a W5-2143) measures quite well but I have some gaps in the 50-60 Hz and around 150 Hz that I'm not able to fix. Sadly I can't reposition them. Moreover I feel like I can have a better response with a dedicated woofer, as I have with other commercial speakers. I'm thinking to add a sub that could be moved much freely, but I'm not sure if I can cross it that high (120-150). I've read that after 80 Hz the sub gives away its location.

By the way, room sketch is attached.
 

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frugal-phile™
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(account for at least 4liters for the Alpair 7 but rather listen to Dave´s suggestions!)

I have fairly accurately calculated the volume many of the small FRs take out of the box volume. It turns out that the big chamfer you put on the back of the driver cut-out adds a volume that is very close to the volue the driver takes up, so in the end i just ignore the volume the driver takes up.

I have not put any midTweeters in sealed sub enclosures, everyone is in an aperiodic midTL.

For midRange use a sealed box Q of about 0.5-0.58 would be my choice (looks like that will be difficult with A7.3) and as the box volume starts approaching 5 litres the A7 starts to sound a bit “boxed in”.

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dave
 

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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
but I have some gaps in the 50-60 Hz and around 150 Hz that I'm not able to fix

Very likely room problems, not speaker problems. Multiple woofers placed to acoustically deal with peaks & dips in the room response is the best way to deal with that, the heavy-weight DSP stuff tries to accomplish the same thing. The 2 used in conjunction can be very powerful.

dave
 
I have fairly accurately calculated the volume many of the small FRs take out of the box volume. It turns out that the big chamfer you put on the back of the driver cut-out adds a volume that is very close to the volue the driver takes up, so in the end i just ignore the volume the driver takes up.

I have not put any midTweeters in sealed sub enclosures, everyone is in an aperiodic midTL.

For midRange use a sealed box Q of about 0.5-0.58 would be my choice (looks like that will be difficult with A7.3) and as the box volume starts approaching 5 litres the A7 starts to sound a bit “boxed in”.

dave

Can you explain the chamfer thing? I didn't get it.

Regarding the Q, what do you think it will be the difference in terms of sound between 0.58 and 0.707 for the A7, considering a crossover point at ~ 250 Hz?
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Low Q in a midTweeter box is good sonically but a low Q might have a too droopy bottom roll-off to nicely match with the woofer. You have to look at the in-box responses near the XO.

Or, if you are all digital with an appropriate front end the option of flattening out FR and phase is possible with a convolution that pre-EQs what is going to the DAC.

dave
 
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