Like I said earlier; I rarely need to make accurate measurements for myself; I do almost ALL tweaking and fine tuning by ear. I was an Engineer and Technician but also a Musician. Those of us trained in music have what I consider an advantage in that we can "USUALLY" tell when the tonal balance is just right. In my case; the top octave and a half (starting around 8 KHz or so) needs to be increased so doing a measurement here for me in my listening space has very little meaning. Having said all of this; I do "sometimes" have to make accurate measurements just like most people do.
Even Vance Dickason remarks about art vs math and science some place in LDC. I can't remember exactly how he put it but personal taste means more to me than a ruler flat response. This is one reason I have each driver pair on it's own stereo amplifier; fine tuning! Besides, some recordings are overly bright, some dull, some have way too much bass, others; not enough...and so on...
[I'm excited once again; I have a new Crown amp on the way for the woofers. This will be a great advantage as it has built in DSP. I have a prominent room mode at about 40 Hz and THAT is very hard to fine tune. My sub has active bass management and now so will my lower woofers. I should be able to flatten out the low bass; the DSP has LP or HP or band pass with 1/12 th octave center freq.]...
Cheers!
Even Vance Dickason remarks about art vs math and science some place in LDC. I can't remember exactly how he put it but personal taste means more to me than a ruler flat response. This is one reason I have each driver pair on it's own stereo amplifier; fine tuning! Besides, some recordings are overly bright, some dull, some have way too much bass, others; not enough...and so on...
[I'm excited once again; I have a new Crown amp on the way for the woofers. This will be a great advantage as it has built in DSP. I have a prominent room mode at about 40 Hz and THAT is very hard to fine tune. My sub has active bass management and now so will my lower woofers. I should be able to flatten out the low bass; the DSP has LP or HP or band pass with 1/12 th octave center freq.]...
Cheers!
I asked a pro sound guy once how he does it. It uses a RTA to set for flat response FIRST; THEN he fine tunes each and every venue he does by ear! Recording Engineers do the same thing; they trust their hearing. Musicians and other musically trained people tend to agree here as well.
I have a measurement system; and can and do use it from time to time. The science and math are real for sure but my idea is the whole point of DIY is to be able to tailor your sound to your tastes and liking.
Yes, all of these techniques are valid; there is more than one "right" answer.
I have a measurement system; and can and do use it from time to time. The science and math are real for sure but my idea is the whole point of DIY is to be able to tailor your sound to your tastes and liking.
Yes, all of these techniques are valid; there is more than one "right" answer.
The placement was intentional, the smaller capacitor would bypass the resistor attenuation and provide a very high frequency boost equal to the reduction in level the resistor provides. The result is a HF shelf with the corner frequency determined by the capacitor, the smaller the capacitor, the higher the shelf frequency.
This would give you a shade more VHF tweeter, with no more of the lower portion of the tweeter.
Art
Done! My Tweeters are JUST RIGHT!
Just to close-off this thread with an actual outcome...
The final configuration included a 1.8-Ohm resistor on the R5 position, providing fractionally less attenuation than the stock 2.8-Ohm resistor.
Our MAGNAT All-Ribbon 6 loudspeakers now convincingly better every other speaker we own - and we own a few!
Of particular interest, all through the upgrade our MAGNATs have been driven by our [15W - into 4/6/8 Ohms] LEBEN CS-300F tube amp, from its [switched] 8-Ohm tap.
By comparison, driven from the 4-Ohm tap, the MAGNATs sounded dry, constrained and less fleshed-out, so there's a lesson there too!
Many thanks again to everyone who helped.
Season's Greetings... Cheers!
Just to close-off this thread with an actual outcome...
The final configuration included a 1.8-Ohm resistor on the R5 position, providing fractionally less attenuation than the stock 2.8-Ohm resistor.
Our MAGNAT All-Ribbon 6 loudspeakers now convincingly better every other speaker we own - and we own a few!
Of particular interest, all through the upgrade our MAGNATs have been driven by our [15W - into 4/6/8 Ohms] LEBEN CS-300F tube amp, from its [switched] 8-Ohm tap.
By comparison, driven from the 4-Ohm tap, the MAGNATs sounded dry, constrained and less fleshed-out, so there's a lesson there too!
Many thanks again to everyone who helped.
Season's Greetings... Cheers!
and to you as well...CHEERS...waiting on my new neighbor to get home from work; he just happens to deliver beer for a living so he brings me any damaged boxes...for FREE!!! If you haven't followed my thread on my 3 1/2 way...I agree with experimenting and measuring both but I usually get really close because I do trust my musicians trained ears!
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