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#11 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Switzerland
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When you have your cabinets getting finished by a famous Swiss boat builder you may as well use a Swiss solution, which has some similarities to sand-filled walls but without the mess:
Hawaphone, the sound insulation from Korff AG Regards Charles |
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#12 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Look at my last several posts involving constrained layer damping.
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It's not what you don't know that causes trouble. It's what you do know that just ain't so..Mark Twain |
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#13 | |
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
It's not what you don't know that causes trouble. It's what you do know that just ain't so..Mark Twain |
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#14 |
diyAudio Member
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If I were Stewart Tyler, I would choose a name like Celef to hide my identity
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__________________
It's not what you don't know that causes trouble. It's what you do know that just ain't so..Mark Twain |
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#15 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Arnhem, NL
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The subject has been researched thoroughly, so I'll keetp it short. Mass, elasticity, boundary conditions and internal loss determine panel movement and amplitude of movement, panel size and shape determine acoustic radiation.
25mm HDF is not very well damped. The ratio mass/elasticity isn't really high either. It is quite heavy though, so any panel damping measurement has to be quite substantial. That is why I advised to decouple drivers. It can be really effective. |
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#16 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
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#17 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Arnhem, NL
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Coincidence actually means something in acoustics.
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#18 |
diyAudio Member
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Yep. Sideways shot, oh well
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__________________
It's not what you don't know that causes trouble. It's what you do know that just ain't so..Mark Twain |
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#19 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Netherlands
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Well CLD with a box within the box is quite difficult and uses a lot of volume. An idea I have. Instead of the butyl damping, stick some very heavy plates to the walls with a very soft foam inbetween. Seems to me like this should dampen the walls very wel. Kind of the same as CLD. Except it's not a sealed box in side a box. PMC did the same with the outer panels on their flagship Fenestria speaker.
Decoupling the driver could also work very well though I'm afraid of doing it in practice on my speakers. I can imagine mounting the midrange on a soft damping material could compromise it's transient response. Also, such a system would have to be tuned very well to make it work in your favor and not against you. I can imagine that such a system could also make the midrange lose transient impact/attack and make it sloppy. So I'm kind of scared to put this in my own speakers where I only have one shot at it.
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When you do it, do it right. Go all out. Last edited by 3wayaddict; 21st October 2020 at 11:02 AM. |
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#20 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Hi,
It seems from this paper that some of your concerns shouldn't be if gasket is used on midrange box: Linkwitz-Links I share your thoughts about tuning but it should be possible to determine a working range if you know spec of material you use. For Sorbothane it is easy to find informations and help determining what is going to be needed for your case. Then you use a dynamometer to specified torque when mounting drivers. Maybe the way Linkwitz describe to mount the drivers ( by attaching them by the magnet, like you discovered by yourself when you prototyped your first box) is worth investigating too. It should help with damping of your box as a side effect too). It could be easier to implement than with a gasket for decoupling too. Last edited by krivium; 21st October 2020 at 01:15 PM. |
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