substrate said:
Brian,
Those cabinets are absolutely beautiful. They look absolutely professional. I really find it interesting how the front baffle is done for the bass driver with the chamfered opening.
Where did your father get the feet from? Also, how did he get the finish to come out so profesional looking?
--
Brian
Re: Re: Pics of our new DIY Towers!! (Raven/PHL/Lambda)
Yes, I've posted my car audio projects on many forums including ECA. I'll be doing a new setup this summer and my dad is actually getting into car audio too so we'll be seeing some of his things.
The sound is the best I've heard by far. The Raven's really make these speakers what they are as they sound so transparent and effortless. The Lambda 12's sound good, but the low-end notes are a little "rolly" (due to the large box and low tune). We may be doing a 4-way system with sealed Tumults (yes, plural) to carry the low-end. The midranges sound very good ... no audible cone breakup ... very nice units. The soundstage is very large and wide. The Arcam CD player really made a substantial improvement in the sound -- making it sound less like it is coming from the speakers. Very airy and open with outstanding imaging.
Thanks!
The BBC vibration isolators (between the upper and lower cabinets) were purchased locally. We made the bottom feet ourselves from 1/2" thick by 2" wide flat steel. Drilled and tapped to take the speaker spikes which we purchased from Zalytron (got them free when we purchased the PHL's and Raven's). In addition, there is a centre spike at the rear-middle of the lower cabinet. This tripod arrangement makes it very easy to move and level.
As for the finishing:
1: Apply wiping penetrating stain - let dry overnight.
2: Apply a coat of laquer sealer.
3: Lightly sand this first coat of sealer wet with 400 grit paper. It's important not to sand through and take off the stain.
4: Apply three to four more coats of sanding sealer, sanding inbetween each coat until you get a finish that is absolutely smooth (ie. no dimples from the grain).
5: Apply the black laquer to the bottoms/back. We didn't tape anything off -- just angled the gun so the overspray didn't hit the sides.
6: Apply a final coat of sealer, sand with 400 grit wet -- this takes off any black overspray.
6: Apply one coat of toner which consists of 2 tbsp. stain mixed with laquer thinner, then added to one quart of sealer. Be carefull not to apply too much toner or it will take away the grain detail.
7: Lightly sand sealer/toner with 600 grit wet.
8: Apply two coats of post-cat laquer wet-on-wet. This means that you only allow about 3 minutes between applications.
9: It is important to thoroughly clean between each coat with paint thinner followed by a tack cloth. You'll have a professional finish and it's not that hard!
We learned this proceedure from a friend of my dads who is a professional furnature refinisher.
The centre of the R2 is at about 47". This is just slightly above our listening level but it makes the soundstange seem nice and tall.
Jean said:
Yes, I've posted my car audio projects on many forums including ECA. I'll be doing a new setup this summer and my dad is actually getting into car audio too so we'll be seeing some of his things.
rnoble said:
The sound is the best I've heard by far. The Raven's really make these speakers what they are as they sound so transparent and effortless. The Lambda 12's sound good, but the low-end notes are a little "rolly" (due to the large box and low tune). We may be doing a 4-way system with sealed Tumults (yes, plural) to carry the low-end. The midranges sound very good ... no audible cone breakup ... very nice units. The soundstage is very large and wide. The Arcam CD player really made a substantial improvement in the sound -- making it sound less like it is coming from the speakers. Very airy and open with outstanding imaging.
Coulomb said:
Thanks!
BrianGT said:
The BBC vibration isolators (between the upper and lower cabinets) were purchased locally. We made the bottom feet ourselves from 1/2" thick by 2" wide flat steel. Drilled and tapped to take the speaker spikes which we purchased from Zalytron (got them free when we purchased the PHL's and Raven's). In addition, there is a centre spike at the rear-middle of the lower cabinet. This tripod arrangement makes it very easy to move and level.
As for the finishing:
1: Apply wiping penetrating stain - let dry overnight.
2: Apply a coat of laquer sealer.
3: Lightly sand this first coat of sealer wet with 400 grit paper. It's important not to sand through and take off the stain.
4: Apply three to four more coats of sanding sealer, sanding inbetween each coat until you get a finish that is absolutely smooth (ie. no dimples from the grain).
5: Apply the black laquer to the bottoms/back. We didn't tape anything off -- just angled the gun so the overspray didn't hit the sides.
6: Apply a final coat of sealer, sand with 400 grit wet -- this takes off any black overspray.
6: Apply one coat of toner which consists of 2 tbsp. stain mixed with laquer thinner, then added to one quart of sealer. Be carefull not to apply too much toner or it will take away the grain detail.
7: Lightly sand sealer/toner with 600 grit wet.
8: Apply two coats of post-cat laquer wet-on-wet. This means that you only allow about 3 minutes between applications.
9: It is important to thoroughly clean between each coat with paint thinner followed by a tack cloth. You'll have a professional finish and it's not that hard!
We learned this proceedure from a friend of my dads who is a professional furnature refinisher.
RHosch said:
The centre of the R2 is at about 47". This is just slightly above our listening level but it makes the soundstange seem nice and tall.
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