I've been given a pair of Mitsubishi ss2100, they don't sound very good, 3 way 3" tweeter, 4-4.5" mid, and 10-12" Woofer each no markings on backs of magnets, no damping no crossover ( just 2 unidentified Caps at input) no port, I'm basically a noob been since 1979 last worked on speakers, I want to upgrade, new tweeters, mids add damping, ports? and crossovers, no exact dimension yet roughly 42" tall 14" wide 10-12" deep, no baffles! any ideas? Going to power from Tubelab SSE, 4-15 watts.
Everything starts with measurements,
ARTA software & a simple measurement jig is a good place to start:
ARTA Software
ARTA software & a simple measurement jig is a good place to start:
ARTA Software
That's a crossover...not an elaborated one, but it crosses over one driver to another.
You would want to eliminate the mechanical crossover ( the natural bandpass behavior of a driver ) and filter each driver, eh?
You will lose some efficiency since you'll eliminate the tailsof each driver ( not considering the highpass of the woofer and the treble limit of the tweeter) that contribute to the overall emission.
The woofer needs some lowpass...That's the basics for starting...
I'm looking at changing tweeter, Mid and maybe woofer in each one, this is one of the prebuilt crossovers I'm looking at (Eminence PXB3:5K0 3-Way Speaker Crossover Board 500/5,000 Hz)
Sorry but it doesn't work like that...I mean, you want to make a speaker from scratch, so why putting the ss2100 in the title? 
You say you have the SSE as the amplifier, so low power; I guess that the Mitsubishi speakers are fairly low wattage so they might be ok, at least you start from the woofer and filter it with 2nd order ( L-C ).
One thing you have to keep in mind is the impedance of the drivers, which is usually 8 Ω. So for 8 Ω and Fc=500 Hz the textbook says 4 mH and 39 uF but, see... in my infinity RS 4001 the filter was 3.5 mH and 100 uF with 25W 0.27Ω resistor,and for a 4 Ω woofer....why?
You can get over with 1st order filters, and for sure the tweeter needs a change. I guess the crossover now has something like 4.7 and 1.5 uF for mid and tw HP.
You can start with the classic Fc of 800 Hz, and for 1st order the lowpass coil would be 2.5 mH and the highpass cap 39 uF. The 5kHz lowpass, I usually put a 0.1 mH coil for the mid.
Now, the 39 uF cap with that midrange would produce a "bump" at Fs and the mid is surely closed on the back.
Choose a new midrange, a paper one...
And put only the woofer in the box, rework the baffle or make the old speaker upside down and cut the top so that the midrange sits on it very near to the woofer
etc etc etc...
You say you have the SSE as the amplifier, so low power; I guess that the Mitsubishi speakers are fairly low wattage so they might be ok, at least you start from the woofer and filter it with 2nd order ( L-C ).
One thing you have to keep in mind is the impedance of the drivers, which is usually 8 Ω. So for 8 Ω and Fc=500 Hz the textbook says 4 mH and 39 uF but, see... in my infinity RS 4001 the filter was 3.5 mH and 100 uF with 25W 0.27Ω resistor,and for a 4 Ω woofer....why?
You can get over with 1st order filters, and for sure the tweeter needs a change. I guess the crossover now has something like 4.7 and 1.5 uF for mid and tw HP.
You can start with the classic Fc of 800 Hz, and for 1st order the lowpass coil would be 2.5 mH and the highpass cap 39 uF. The 5kHz lowpass, I usually put a 0.1 mH coil for the mid.
Now, the 39 uF cap with that midrange would produce a "bump" at Fs and the mid is surely closed on the back.
Choose a new midrange, a paper one...
And put only the woofer in the box, rework the baffle or make the old speaker upside down and cut the top so that the midrange sits on it very near to the woofer
etc etc etc...
re:'This software will help with how to remodel cases? ' - it'll give you the speaker parameters as a starting point. You'll also need the knowledge of how to use those parameters.
re:'prebuilt crossovers' - not an optimum solution, unless you understand how to deal with impedance variations (i.e. calculate zobel networks)
Interestingly, these speakers were subject to a recall:
'these speakers may be unable to handle the peak power supplied by amplifiers sold with the component system or from amplifiers connected after purchase. In certain cases, when the amplifier is operated at near-maximum volume levels for approximately four to five hours, internal parts of the speaker may overheat and burn.'
re:'prebuilt crossovers' - not an optimum solution, unless you understand how to deal with impedance variations (i.e. calculate zobel networks)
Interestingly, these speakers were subject to a recall:
'these speakers may be unable to handle the peak power supplied by amplifiers sold with the component system or from amplifiers connected after purchase. In certain cases, when the amplifier is operated at near-maximum volume levels for approximately four to five hours, internal parts of the speaker may overheat and burn.'
Looking at the image here, https://www.globalgaragesale.net/itemlisting.aspx?item=161722
I think the simplest thing to do would be to remove the mids & tweeters, fill in the mid hole & replace the tweeter with a Vifa TG9 full ranger unit, using a simple first order crossover at the baffle step frequency (~320Hz). The TG9 may need to be padded down a bit to match the woofer sensitivity
But... before doing that, I'd simply replace the existing crossover caps and see how it sounds, cheap enough to try
I think the simplest thing to do would be to remove the mids & tweeters, fill in the mid hole & replace the tweeter with a Vifa TG9 full ranger unit, using a simple first order crossover at the baffle step frequency (~320Hz). The TG9 may need to be padded down a bit to match the woofer sensitivity
But... before doing that, I'd simply replace the existing crossover caps and see how it sounds, cheap enough to try
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