Thankyou. I try to make stuff accessible...and pretty! 
Here's Lojzek's speaker again:
Easily modelled on Boxsim in Windows:
Software | Visaton
You can just take the default project and substitute this driver:
WS 17 E - 4 Ohm | Visaton
Another way is to import an existing project into the projekte folder. Modifications are then quick. The 104mm SC10N tweeter might be quite similar to the Morel.
Alto I – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
Alto II – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
Alto 2 Variation – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
Two of these use the off-the-shelf filter:
It is also common to use a breakup notch around 5kHz. This could be a tank of 1uF and 8R2 across the 1mH bass coil, or an LCR after the bass coil of, say, 6.8uF/2.2R/0.15mH. This can improve phase alignment, which is always a problem with 6" drivers.
It would be useful to know the mounting plate diameter of the Morel in mm.
Here's Lojzek's speaker again:
Easily modelled on Boxsim in Windows:
Software | Visaton
You can just take the default project and substitute this driver:
WS 17 E - 4 Ohm | Visaton
Another way is to import an existing project into the projekte folder. Modifications are then quick. The 104mm SC10N tweeter might be quite similar to the Morel.
Alto I – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
Alto II – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
Alto 2 Variation – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
Two of these use the off-the-shelf filter:
It is also common to use a breakup notch around 5kHz. This could be a tank of 1uF and 8R2 across the 1mH bass coil, or an LCR after the bass coil of, say, 6.8uF/2.2R/0.15mH. This can improve phase alignment, which is always a problem with 6" drivers.
It would be useful to know the mounting plate diameter of the Morel in mm.
Sorry for such a long response, I got quite overwhelmed on other threads and had so much work I left this alone for a while. I just went to calculate the volume of the cabinet and there's a division about half way up. I assume the volume I want is just above this division? How accurate do I need to be?
Mike
Can you clarify your point on the division in the box?
Is it in fact a strengthening brace, or a full division, creating a separate enclosure. Possibly does it have a reflex port or circular hole as well.
Basically, looking at the rear of the box can you see how it is formed, usually it is possible to see the size of the wall of the enclosure, 12, 15, and 18mm etc. You can then make an estimate for the internal dimensions, for the depth you can measure from the rear wall to the inside of the front wall. Now with the dimensions you can work out the internal volume with reasonable accuracy. If the box is not rectangular you will have to apply some more maths to account for baffle slope etc.
Is it in fact a strengthening brace, or a full division, creating a separate enclosure. Possibly does it have a reflex port or circular hole as well.
Basically, looking at the rear of the box can you see how it is formed, usually it is possible to see the size of the wall of the enclosure, 12, 15, and 18mm etc. You can then make an estimate for the internal dimensions, for the depth you can measure from the rear wall to the inside of the front wall. Now with the dimensions you can work out the internal volume with reasonable accuracy. If the box is not rectangular you will have to apply some more maths to account for baffle slope etc.
Hi, sorry I've just seen your message now, I've had so much work on lately with all the job losses I've not really had time to read this. I'd be willing to sell the working woofer, it actually works out nicely for me as I can't get a replacement so it goes towards the price of finding an alternative. Obviously price becomes a difficult point though as by selling my working woofer to you as opposed to buying yours off you for example; I'm left in the more difficult situation of finding an alternative. Let me know what sort of price you were thinking and PM me. I'll try respond ASAP.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
Hi,
Sorry to take so long to get back to you when you're helping me but life got in the way I suppose. The piece I was talking about covers the full area of the cross-section of the speaker (i.e. no gaps) so I'd consider it to be a division rather than a brace. There is a port at the top on the back; it starts at a diameter of roughly 72mm (the most largest possible diameter to measure on the plastic/most flared point), quickly moves to around 49mm and then tapers down slowly to 42mm. The length of the port is around 140 or 141 mm.
It took me a while to calculate the internal volume as its a parallelogram shape so estimating the angles was difficult as I couldn't find my sliding bevel but turns out it actually made very little difference to the end figure. I included the small extra volume gained by the cut out for the speaker and I subtracted the volume of the internal bracing; I haven't yet bothered to try calculate the volume of the crossover and have no idea how you calculate the volume of the sound absorption material.
The overall figure using the calculations I made was 0.01902 m3.
Again, cheers for all the help guy, I'm eternally grateful.
Mike
If the cut out diameter is around 145mm, and you have 19 litres with a 42mm x 140 mm port my first guess would be simply try Sb Acoustics 6” SB17MFC35-8. and work from there.
I think they will tune, have you downloaded Vituix cad 2 and have a play with that. I am sure the Sb acoustics driver is in their list of drivers and simply set custom cabinet size to 19Litres and see what the software delivers for a reflex enclosure.
It might even sound OK to good without touching any components of the crossover. Worth a try in my opinion.
I think they will tune, have you downloaded Vituix cad 2 and have a play with that. I am sure the Sb acoustics driver is in their list of drivers and simply set custom cabinet size to 19Litres and see what the software delivers for a reflex enclosure.
It might even sound OK to good without touching any components of the crossover. Worth a try in my opinion.
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