2-way speakers

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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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...but 1kHz isn't too low? I mean the tweeter resonace frequncy is higher? And istn too big range for the tweeter from 1kHz to 22kHz ?

That tweeter cannot likely go that low. I don’t use domes so others will have more useful info on its specific use. Don’t worry about the top end, it is higher than you can hear (there are a few young “bat-ears” that can)/

Do you mean its good to cut it around 4kHz

No, i would be cuttin gthem 250-500 Hz but with a (much) different "tweeter”.

...but this is what I got...

OK, that answers that question from another poster. You have to workwith what you have, Chris & i were talking in a more general sense, which gives you a bit of what kind of compromises you will have to make.

dave
 
Online calculators have their uses, but simulators are better:

Software | Visaton

These designs can be imported to the projekte folder and modified quickly, The W200S-8 woofer and SC10N tweeter are typical and similar to what you have:

2 Wege – Boxsim Projektdatenbank

You will find some SEAS W22NY designs here, being a well-behaved 8" woofer:

SEAS Brand Archives - Madisound Speaker PDF Library

The SEAS Njord was about as simple as it gets:

540663d1459296030-seas-kits-seas-njord-jpg


540664d1459296030-seas-kits-seas-njord-filter-png


This sort of 8" CA22RNX woofer and 1" 27TFFC tweeter:

H1288-08 CA22RNX
H0881-06 27TFFC
 
Your best bet is to simulate the crossover. Of course this requires good data (garbage in = out). This guide is good:
http://audio.claub.net/software/DaveDalFarra/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf

There are a number of free programs. My favourite these days is VituixCAD2.

My advice is to go through the tutorial above over a few nights / weekends and replicate the example Dave provides.

Then you will have a proven method you can apply to your own combination.

I think ultimately - you'll get to a speaker you are satisfied with quicker, if you do a little learning legwork now.

The other option is to implore someone here to design you a crossover.
 
That schematic looks good, I'd omit the zobel on the tweeter (R1,C3), I don't think it's really necessary.
I can't comment on the component values, it's up to you to find a calculator/ formulas you trust.

So this will be the schematic, only left is to decide with all of you people what frequncy and value to set right ?

That tweeter cannot likely go that low. I don’t use domes so others will have more useful info on its specific use. Don’t worry about the top end, it is higher than you can hear (there are a few young “bat-ears” that can)/

No, i would be cutting them 250-500 Hz but with a (much) different "tweeter”.

OK, that answers that question from another poster. You have to workwith what you have, Chris & i were talking in a more general sense, which gives you a bit of what kind of compromises you will have to make.

dave

Okey so I will know for the next time when choosing drivers, and what are you suggesting for my case? Because if I cut it around 500-1000Hz there left a gap of 1000-1500Hz that will be not played from the tweeter.


Online calculators have their uses, but simulators are better:

Software | Visaton

These designs can be imported to the projekte folder and modified quickly, The W200S-8 woofer and SC10N tweeter are typical and similar to what you have:

2 Wege – Boxsim Projektdatenbank

You will find some SEAS W22NY designs here, being a well-behaved 8" woofer:

SEAS Brand Archives - Madisound Speaker PDF Library

The SEAS Njord was about as simple as it gets:

540663d1459296030-seas-kits-seas-njord-jpg


540664d1459296030-seas-kits-seas-njord-filter-png


This sort of 8" CA22RNX woofer and 1" 27TFFC tweeter:

H1288-08 CA22RNX
H0881-06 27TFFC
I like simulators but I have a hard time to work with them yet, I am triyng... but when I dont have the right file from manufucture is hard. I tried to search for the W200S-8 woofer and SC10N tweeter in the second link but I didn't find them ? I tried to input my values for the drivers but the graph dosen't come up... :/ :(
Your best bet is to simulate the crossover. Of course this requires good data (garbage in = out). This guide is good:
http://audio.claub.net/software/DaveDalFarra/Simple Loudspeaker Design ver2.pdf

There are a number of free programs. My favourite these days is VituixCAD2.

My advice is to go through the tutorial above over a few nights / weekends and replicate the example Dave provides.

Then you will have a proven method you can apply to your own combination.

I think ultimately - you'll get to a speaker you are satisfied with quicker, if you do a little learning legwork now.

The other option is to implore someone here to design you a crossover.
I tried Vituix but the big problem here is that I dont have and didn't find .frd file for the simulator.I think there isnt one... So I cant use the programa :( I will look up the pdf file you send.

... With the exception of different frequency response, T/S parameters, distortion performance etc, yes they're very similar.

Chris
This is ironicaly right ? Because you write down all the important parameters xaxa ? So they aren't the same ?


Greetings all!
 
... With the exception of different frequency response, T/S parameters, distortion performance etc, yes they're very similar.

Chris

Actually almost identical. Only thing I see different is the Monacor bass is 2dB louder. Not hard to adjust for that, if at all. Tweeter level is such a matter of taste.
W 200 S - 8 Ohm | Visaton
MONACOR: SPH-210

SC 10 N - 8 Ohm | Visaton
MONACOR: DT-107

People make things more difficult than they really are. Worry, worry, worry... :rolleyes:

Fosher, you might import this into projekte in Boxsim:
VIB 2000 GF – Boxsim Projektdatenbank

Now change the drivers, and adjust the crossover. See how it looks. You should be up and running in about half an hour. Most of the circuits I suggest work with almost any typical drivers.
 
Okey so I use the W 200 S - 8 Ohm and SC 10 N - 8 Ohm in boxsim and I ended with this grpah. And theese values. I was aiming for the almost perfet straight line but... Is it good? Is the drop from the tweeter around 1.8kHz and 2.5kHz bad one? The crossover meant to cut around 2kHz?

So are these good or bad graph ?

And are the phase response good ?

Greetings!
 

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Try it my way to start:

694035d1532786073-sb26adc-compared-sb29rdc-3rd-kef-style-png


You have just discovered how wrong online calcultors go with baffletep and tweeter level!

Mark some components in red and let the optimizer work it's magic. Like the 2.2R and most of the bass filter.

Phase is always a stinker with 8" bass. It has poor time-alignment.
 
Okey I will try it, but only 1sr order on the woofer isn't it a little ? Why not 2nd?
What optimizer, I have try it to put diffrent values till I like it , there is a auto calculating? :D What can i do to make the phase alignment good ?

And what is the purpose of the 2.2ohms resistor to the tweeter ? I see the tweeter has Zobel and 3rd order, for the 3rd order Okey, but how to calculate the Zobel when I dont have the parameters ?

Greetings!
 
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Boxsim is very clever stuff! Without being too difficult.

It knows what it is doing. Based on the mathematics. And has all the Visaton modelling files.

694035d1532786073-sb26adc-compared-sb29rdc-3rd-kef-style-png


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I usually post in Linux, so it is a bit of a bore to switch to Windows to run Boxsim.

The 2,2R tweeter resistor adjusts level. In reality, tweeters can be turned down a bit. Flat actually sounds a bit loud.

Trust me on this, Boxsim can calculate Zobels too. But I am about right here. And the3.3uF/0.2mH/10uf is just classic Celestion and KEF design. Why reinvent the wheel?
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Okey so I will know for the next time when choosing drivers, and what are you suggesting for my case?\

Ask that question when you are ready to start your next diy build — rarely do people start at one. You have already started on your 1st one having sourced the drivers.

What you learn will teach you a lot. Enjoy the journey.

dave
 
Hi I was off for a few days.

System7 that looks great, but the box is also important.

Lately I thinking of using transmission line. I draw a 38L transmission line box.The yellow in the botom is spake for sand maybe to control the low's. What do you think?

I still strugle with this ******* crossover.I really cant decide what type, and at what frequency to cut. Isnt 1sr order to low for the woofer ? I having really hard time here.

Cheers!
 

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