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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit
Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit
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Old 28th March 2020, 06:57 PM   #1
Kenmb is offline Kenmb  Canada
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Default Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit

Wondering if the capacitors may have failed on the crossover rather than going worst case scenario and thinking tweeters are burnt.

I pulled out the tweeter/midrange unit far enough to get an ohm meter on the speaker terminals and get 8.0 ohms on tweeter and 3.0 on midrange. Midrange is making sound. So I don't think the tweeter is open or shorted but don't know proper spec to be sure. Leads are soldered so haven't disconnected right at tweeter.

These speakers are 25 years old now so wondering if it could be a crossover issue.

I don't even know where the crossover is or how to access. No obvious panel unless I must pull one of the base drivers out to access.

Is it possible the input caps are gone or is it wishful thinking?
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Old 28th March 2020, 07:24 PM   #2
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit
Did you unsolder one end of the tweeter to check resistance? I don't think you did from what you say...

Your diagram shows a resistive path across the tweeter which would register even if the tweeter were open circuit.
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Old 28th March 2020, 08:06 PM   #3
Kenmb is offline Kenmb  Canada
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Missed that path through the inductor. I found the crossover is attached to base plate of speaker. The melted metal on 10w resistor seems out of place.

I will unsolder the lead on the crossover output and get a reading on tweeter tonight.
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Old 28th March 2020, 11:01 PM   #4
Kenmb is offline Kenmb  Canada
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Reading open circuit on tweeter with the one wire lifted off the crossover so looks like I need to find some tweeters. How would I go about finding replacements? I can try Klipsch since I understand they bought out Energy. Is there some company out there that I can contact who can offer a comparable replacement?

That 4.0 ohm 10w resistor with brown spot it is 4.3 ohm so is ok. Must be a stray dab of glue got on it.

Thanks
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Old 29th March 2020, 08:40 AM   #5
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit
In the picture it looks almost like a solder splash... it's local and looks to be caused by something external during assembly. I'd just pick it off.

Replacements... I'm afraid my expertise runs out with the circuit theory as I've no idea what would be a suitable replacement for these. Hopefully someone else will pick up on this and be better able to advise.
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Old 29th March 2020, 09:52 AM   #6
AllenB is offline AllenB  Australia
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Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit
This appears to have been rewired. Is the discolouration beneath the blue capacitors some kind of chemical residue?

To help you pick a replacement tweeter, is there some kind of technical specifications paper on the web or sticker or plaque on the speaker? I'd be interested in the sensitivity at least.

There are a few different levels of replacement method, maybe the nominal impedance of the original tweeter would come in handy?
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Old 29th March 2020, 03:26 PM   #7
Kenmb is offline Kenmb  Canada
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I have had these units since around 2004. Bought off a hifi salesman that had them at home, dealt with the guy for a few years so knew him well enough. Don't think they ever had work done on them since I never had reason to open one up. So any discoloration that is not an outright failed item would be from factory.

Can't find anything on the internet with any other specifics to the tweeters. The crossover diagram came from this site. I can attach the specs from my owners manual but no other details can be found going through the booklet.

I admit that perhaps it is time to get into some new speakers but would like to make these fully serviceable again so they have some resale. I could part them out I suppose. I do lots of things myself but speakers are not something I ever looked into so have no idea how I could go about this or what resources are out there to assist me. And the fact that the mid and tweets are in a sub assembly makes it even more challenging for someone with no background at all in such diy work. And so I am here posting.


Any help would be greatly appreciated. If they weren't such a nice speaker for my tastes I would toss them and move on.
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Old 29th March 2020, 04:12 PM   #8
EarlK is offline EarlK  Canada
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Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit-20200329_090137_resized-jpg
Click the image to open in full size.
Energy Veritas 1.8 tweeters quit-20200329_090203_resized-jpg

I'd suggest that you completely remove that tweeter ( from the plastic housing ) and then take a series of pics showing the tweeter from all angles.

The aluminum dome and large/thick ceramic magnet imply a certain level of quality.

The fact these speakers were from the 1990's ( when Dynaudio still supplied components directly through Solen in Montreal ) suggests a possible supply chain.

There are plenty of 1" ( aluminum dome ) enthusiasts around here ( and other forums ) that can should be able to make an educated guess at to what manufacturuer that tweeter was sourced from ( if you can just get the necessary pics put up ).

Also, quality substitutions can be had ( and most likely fitted ) once you provide the necessary mechanical specs/details.

If you can't manage the above > you could always ship off the modules to Florida ( won't be cheap ) to have SpeakerX see what they can do for you ( though Solen might be a better choice ).

Click the image to open in full size.

Something to keep in mind here, your network has a few LCR notch filters dialed in to deal with the inevitable aluminum breakups >> those will need to be tweaked by a Pro if you substitute in a different tweeter.


Last edited by EarlK; 29th March 2020 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 29th March 2020, 05:01 PM   #9
raymondj is offline raymondj  United Kingdom
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Is there some more information to be gathered by peeling of the label ?

There is some info just visible underneath the label in your images.

A long shot but worth a try.
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Old 29th March 2020, 05:09 PM   #10
raymondj is offline raymondj  United Kingdom
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I also imagine that the width of the mesh covering the midrange and tweeter, when measured horizontally across the tweeter face is the diameter of the faceplate for a replacement tweeter. Give or take a mm.

You will also need to measure across the disconnected good one to find the resistance of the coil.

I would hang in there and try and get them working again, especially as you have had them so long and have been happy, a lot of effort went into the crossover, you don't very often see something as complex as that.
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