I've a pair of Seas ER18 RNX - reed paper cone version.
In my tropical country, humidity is real problem with paper cone.
Some friends have the same problem with Scan speak woofer classic when the humidity destroy the join welding of voice coil wire with the terminal lead wire ( through the paper cone!).
If I spray a clear coating of atm painting on the cone, is this affect (much) to specs of woofer enough to change the sound?
In my tropical country, humidity is real problem with paper cone.
Some friends have the same problem with Scan speak woofer classic when the humidity destroy the join welding of voice coil wire with the terminal lead wire ( through the paper cone!).
If I spray a clear coating of atm painting on the cone, is this affect (much) to specs of woofer enough to change the sound?
Visaton produce a paper cone coating liquid. It is black and is water resistant when hardened completely.
Coating liquid for paper cone, Visaton LTS 50 mL
Coating liquid for paper cone, Visaton LTS 50 mL
Thanks for advice. I think with clear spray painting, I can apply a very thin layer on "top" of the cone. Just to protect the cone from humidity.
Can you get scotchgard where you live? It's great for repelling water but will add next to nothing to the cone weight.
Any way to add coating to paper cone woofers?? -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
If you decide to go with a spray varnish/or other, it's probably a better idea to use a high gloss version. That will have smaller amounts of sheen "flatterer".
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
If you decide to go with a spray varnish/or other, it's probably a better idea to use a high gloss version. That will have smaller amounts of sheen "flatterer".
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Going back many years (1985/6) a friend and I bought two SEAS 25F-EWX woofers to make sub-base units. According to the spec sheet the Fs=26 Hz and the Qts=0.23 We set up a test "jig" and system to measure the Fs and got a measurement of 27 Hz and 0.23 for each parameter. We then doped both cones to "stiffen" them, and then retested 24 hrs later. We obtained an Fs=23 Hz and a Qts=0.275
For the life of me I cannot recall what equipment we used etc. but the final result with the sub-base enclosure we made and mounted the one unit in was quite gratifying.
I don't think it will hurt to try coating the cone, but try to ensure an even coat. As I recall we worked from the dust cap outwards, using a 25 mm brush (the dust cap on this unit is also paper.
We didn't have access to any fancy lacquers so we used RC model plane dope, as it was the lightest and quickest drying stuff we had readily available. I still have my driver carefully stored with some large silica gel packs, and in a zip-lock bag. I'll get around to using it sometime - I hope. Best of luck Dragous
For the life of me I cannot recall what equipment we used etc. but the final result with the sub-base enclosure we made and mounted the one unit in was quite gratifying.
I don't think it will hurt to try coating the cone, but try to ensure an even coat. As I recall we worked from the dust cap outwards, using a 25 mm brush (the dust cap on this unit is also paper.
We didn't have access to any fancy lacquers so we used RC model plane dope, as it was the lightest and quickest drying stuff we had readily available. I still have my driver carefully stored with some large silica gel packs, and in a zip-lock bag. I'll get around to using it sometime - I hope. Best of luck Dragous
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I have recently used this 'wet look' coating on the fullrange driver. I have measured fr response before and after coating. No discernible difference. I do not believe one would be able to hear the difference too.
Wet Look 4 oz. Black
Wet Look 4 oz. Black
I have been doing this for 40-some years. Not specifically for moisture issues, but to make them sound better. Sealing the top layer of paper fibres locks them down from moving reducing cone self-noise.
I have tried many things, but keep coming back to puzzlekoat/ModPodge. This is a PVA specifically for coating and sealing puzzles after completing them. How much is used depends on the drivers one is using. I mostly do FRs now, so it becomes essential to use as little as possible and still achieve the goals, and not kill off the top end. With woofers one has a bit more latitude, but heavy multiple coats will increase cone mass, push Fs, and move other parametres around. With the minimal coats i use the T/S are not significantly affected, changes falling below normal driver variation and the differences when measuring T/S on a day with different weather (mostly temp/pressure) so one treats them the same as stock as far as boxes go.
The commercial stuff is BL100, but the smallest quantity you can get is more than a diyers lifetime need. There are variations on this.
C37 is a popular lacquer. Used in small quantities it works much like puzzlekoat, has a lovely smell, and goes on weird. Too many coats will stiffen the cone and ruin the driver. It is horridly expensive (someone was kind enuff to give me a bottle to try).
dave
I have tried many things, but keep coming back to puzzlekoat/ModPodge. This is a PVA specifically for coating and sealing puzzles after completing them. How much is used depends on the drivers one is using. I mostly do FRs now, so it becomes essential to use as little as possible and still achieve the goals, and not kill off the top end. With woofers one has a bit more latitude, but heavy multiple coats will increase cone mass, push Fs, and move other parametres around. With the minimal coats i use the T/S are not significantly affected, changes falling below normal driver variation and the differences when measuring T/S on a day with different weather (mostly temp/pressure) so one treats them the same as stock as far as boxes go.
The commercial stuff is BL100, but the smallest quantity you can get is more than a diyers lifetime need. There are variations on this.
C37 is a popular lacquer. Used in small quantities it works much like puzzlekoat, has a lovely smell, and goes on weird. Too many coats will stiffen the cone and ruin the driver. It is horridly expensive (someone was kind enuff to give me a bottle to try).
dave
These Seas woofer have hard pressed paper cone. If sitff to weight ratio change, the cone breakup frequency will change. We get it from FR measurement and fine turn by nortch filter.
And with very little weight of one (or two) layer coating, fs might be slighly lower and Qts raised. I think it's ok.
One more thing, I only coating only the outter side of the cone. And the inner side will be solved with some silica gel packs in the cabinet ( reflex type)?
And with very little weight of one (or two) layer coating, fs might be slighly lower and Qts raised. I think it's ok.
One more thing, I only coating only the outter side of the cone. And the inner side will be solved with some silica gel packs in the cabinet ( reflex type)?
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