Energy Pro 22 tweeter replacements, And now a crossover question.
Edit - Additional question at the bottom....
Yes I saw the other threads about this, but thought I'd ask (again) anyway
A friend has handed me 2 pairs of energy pro 22 speakers to repair.
One pair has original tweeters that are close to burnt out.
The tweeters measure ~7k ohm and have no output.
The other pair have mismatched tweeters.
One is the normal aluminium fascia, the other is a plastic fascia.
And just for fun, they neither measure or sound anything like each other.
Unless I am mistaken, if the voice coils are gone, then no one can repair it.
That's ABI Tech and Human Speakers.
Has there been any development in replacements or repairers since the older threads ?
My worst case scenario is to find a similar electrical match tweeter then graft that onto the old face plate followed by a little crossover tweaking.
Thoughts Comments Suggestions ?
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Late edit - 5-4-2020 - Crossover question.
I have found a crossover schematic which shows the changes between the Pro 22 and the Reference 22.
I will add the sales brochure and schematic in a new post as I can't add it in on this post.
The changes are oh so subtle.
Looks like the reference version;
Raises the tweeter level half a db.
Lowers the bass drivers crossover and increases the roll off by a
minuscule amount.
Is this possibly a tweak to account for the port being moved to the front on the Reference version or is there another reason ?
(port is on the rear of the Pro, and the front on the Reference)
And yes I know it'll be pure speculation without the driver parameters for proper simulation.
Edit - Additional question at the bottom....
Yes I saw the other threads about this, but thought I'd ask (again) anyway
A friend has handed me 2 pairs of energy pro 22 speakers to repair.
One pair has original tweeters that are close to burnt out.
The tweeters measure ~7k ohm and have no output.
The other pair have mismatched tweeters.
One is the normal aluminium fascia, the other is a plastic fascia.
And just for fun, they neither measure or sound anything like each other.
Unless I am mistaken, if the voice coils are gone, then no one can repair it.
That's ABI Tech and Human Speakers.
Has there been any development in replacements or repairers since the older threads ?
My worst case scenario is to find a similar electrical match tweeter then graft that onto the old face plate followed by a little crossover tweaking.
Thoughts Comments Suggestions ?
------------------------------------------------------
Late edit - 5-4-2020 - Crossover question.
I have found a crossover schematic which shows the changes between the Pro 22 and the Reference 22.
I will add the sales brochure and schematic in a new post as I can't add it in on this post.
The changes are oh so subtle.
Looks like the reference version;
Raises the tweeter level half a db.
Lowers the bass drivers crossover and increases the roll off by a
minuscule amount.
Is this possibly a tweak to account for the port being moved to the front on the Reference version or is there another reason ?
(port is on the rear of the Pro, and the front on the Reference)
And yes I know it'll be pure speculation without the driver parameters for proper simulation.
Attachments
Last edited:
Nearly impossible to repair. You would have to find a voice coil in the correct diameter and impedance and hope for the best. Huw at Human Speakers may be able to rewind the voice coil. AB Tech services in Hopedale, MA is no longer in business. I may have another source for voice coil repair in New Jersey. I have a Pro22 tweeter to repair also, so let me ask him and if he says he can, I'll DM you his info. (He's not a "retailer" so I don't think he wants to be inundated with requests)
The owner of these found some info with possible options.
Audax TW034X0
Dayton RS28F (no longer available)
Dayton DC28F 8ohm (4ohm no longer available)
I ended up trying the DC28F 8ohm.
I used a dats v2 to measure the free air parameters of this against two of the working (sort off) original tweeters
Electrically it looks like a great match when compared to the better of the originals I have.
The dats sweep also sounds like perfect match.
I didn't bother with a proper mic'd test. Rather pointless when I'm not sure how good or bad the one possible original is.
I spent some time getting it to fit.
Ok some won't like how I've done this, but it works and sounds like a great replacement.
Strip the old tweeter.
All you need is the aluminium face, foam facing, small aluminium face ring.
Drill out the old terminal posts and notch out three spots on the back to allow for the face screws on the new tweeter.
Cut the face down on the new tweeter about 15mm to give extra clearance between it and the cabinet cutout.
Silicon new tweeter onto the old face plate.
Change the cabinet connectors to a pair of 5.2mm females. (Blue = Negative)
Put it all back together and done
Of the two pairs I have here, there are minor differences.
One has three screws to mount the tweeter to the cabinet, and the cabinet is a pure straight hole.
The other has four mounting screws and has 'ears' cut in the cabinet for the terminals.
Let the pics be worth a few hundred words
Please note.
I am not the one that dug the tweeter out by the rim with a screwdriver.
The damage was already there long before my friend bought them.
Audax TW034X0
Dayton RS28F (no longer available)
Dayton DC28F 8ohm (4ohm no longer available)
I ended up trying the DC28F 8ohm.
I used a dats v2 to measure the free air parameters of this against two of the working (sort off) original tweeters
Electrically it looks like a great match when compared to the better of the originals I have.
The dats sweep also sounds like perfect match.
I didn't bother with a proper mic'd test. Rather pointless when I'm not sure how good or bad the one possible original is.
I spent some time getting it to fit.
Ok some won't like how I've done this, but it works and sounds like a great replacement.
Strip the old tweeter.
All you need is the aluminium face, foam facing, small aluminium face ring.
Drill out the old terminal posts and notch out three spots on the back to allow for the face screws on the new tweeter.
Cut the face down on the new tweeter about 15mm to give extra clearance between it and the cabinet cutout.
Silicon new tweeter onto the old face plate.
Change the cabinet connectors to a pair of 5.2mm females. (Blue = Negative)
Put it all back together and done
Of the two pairs I have here, there are minor differences.
One has three screws to mount the tweeter to the cabinet, and the cabinet is a pure straight hole.
The other has four mounting screws and has 'ears' cut in the cabinet for the terminals.
Let the pics be worth a few hundred words
Please note.
I am not the one that dug the tweeter out by the rim with a screwdriver.
The damage was already there long before my friend bought them.
Attachments
Energy 22 replacement
To put another option out there.
I recently acquired some pro 22s, with one dead tweeter, and one that hardly worked. I tried the Seas 27tbfc in them, with pretty good success so far! They sound great, and I think they look really cool.
To make them fit, I made some adapter plates from some fairly thin aluminum I had around. I imagine a baking sheet or something similar would work well. Cut it to the size of the original tweeter (a little smaller), and make a hole that fits the new one in the center. I used an aircraft snips for this- not ideal, but it gets hidden! Drill holes to correspond to the three mounting holes in the original, and the four mounting holes in the new tweeter. Use machine screws/nuts to attach new tweeter to adapter. I used a layer of black foam craft sheet as a gasket here, cut to the size of the original tweeter (with an xacto knife).
Then I attached the wires (I soldered them, but would recommend purchasing the correctly sized plugs), and screwed the whole assembly down using new pan head wood screws in the original mounting holes. I left the original gaskets in place for this.
I then made and fitted a trim ring using the same craft foam. In the layer of foam underneath, I used a hole punch to remove material where the pan head screws would otherwise raise the foam.
Unfortunately I didn't take pictures of the process, but here's the finished product:
To put another option out there.
I recently acquired some pro 22s, with one dead tweeter, and one that hardly worked. I tried the Seas 27tbfc in them, with pretty good success so far! They sound great, and I think they look really cool.
To make them fit, I made some adapter plates from some fairly thin aluminum I had around. I imagine a baking sheet or something similar would work well. Cut it to the size of the original tweeter (a little smaller), and make a hole that fits the new one in the center. I used an aircraft snips for this- not ideal, but it gets hidden! Drill holes to correspond to the three mounting holes in the original, and the four mounting holes in the new tweeter. Use machine screws/nuts to attach new tweeter to adapter. I used a layer of black foam craft sheet as a gasket here, cut to the size of the original tweeter (with an xacto knife).
Then I attached the wires (I soldered them, but would recommend purchasing the correctly sized plugs), and screwed the whole assembly down using new pan head wood screws in the original mounting holes. I left the original gaskets in place for this.
I then made and fitted a trim ring using the same craft foam. In the layer of foam underneath, I used a hole punch to remove material where the pan head screws would otherwise raise the foam.
Unfortunately I didn't take pictures of the process, but here's the finished product:
Attachments
I used the Dayton RST28F-4 with beautiful results. Smooth. I made the adapter plate from 1/4" hardboard. I have installed these while my original tweeters are on the way to Fab Audio in Ontario to have the ferrofluid replaced.
Attachments
What made you choose the RST28F-4 vs the DC28F-8?
The RST seems to have higher sensitivity, 93db vs 89db.
Does the RST sound overly bright?
The slightly smaller overall diameter of the RST28F-4 would make fitting an adapter plate easier.
A friend gifted me a pair of Reference 22 Connoisseur with no tweeters and I would like to get them up and running.
The reason I chose the RST28F-4 is because of this article.
https://speakerholic.blogspot.com/2013/11/energy-22-tweeter-replacement.html
Maybe I should have done more research as I am now reading that an 8 ohm would have been the better choice as the crossover would be effected by the 4 ohm replacement. To me they sounded alright. The original tweeters are now back in the speakers and I am now debating whether I will keep the Energy Reference 22's.
Sigh.
$300.00 to have the tweeters rebuilt and I just don't like the sound of the speakers. I think parting the Energy speakers will be the only way to recoup some of my costs.
Down another rabbit hole I guess.
Attachments
Thanks a ton for the info.
I hate that you don't like the sound with your rebuilt tweeters, that's a bummer. I know the feeling of investing into something and being somewhat let down by the results. I couldn't tell you how much I've spent and bartered away only to keep coming back to my $25, yard sale bought, Boston Acoustics A150's, apparently they just play nice with my current system and space. Although it's not really something I put much stock into maybe the tweeters will "break-in" over time?
I never heard the original tweeters, but I used Vifa and they sound similar to the RC70 now.
https://solen.ca/products/speakers/home-speakers/tweeters/d19td0508/
https://solen.ca/products/speakers/home-speakers/tweeters/d19td0508/
Hello everyone
If the the tweeters voice coil measure ~7k ohm (Something) , the ferrofluid may be just to old.
After 20 years or so , this can it get pretty thick , and probably gives a false reading...
You have nothing to lose , take them apart , and clean then up ... and re measure the coils
You can then re try to put in new ferrofluid
The tricky part is aligning the coils , when reassembling them
For Chris chris@abitech.ca , he's not really a guy that's respectful of his customers.
Charges more than 400$ (Can) for the restauration of a pair of tweeters
And can be very easily distracted , from his work-in-progress ...
I waited more than 2 months for 2 Woofer coil replacements .
While he was sitting comfortably at his Florida Condo ,
while my woofers were still in his Work Shop in Nova scotia (Can)
And that's when he replies to his emails
Good luck with Chris
If the the tweeters voice coil measure ~7k ohm (Something) , the ferrofluid may be just to old.
After 20 years or so , this can it get pretty thick , and probably gives a false reading...
You have nothing to lose , take them apart , and clean then up ... and re measure the coils
You can then re try to put in new ferrofluid
The tricky part is aligning the coils , when reassembling them
For Chris chris@abitech.ca , he's not really a guy that's respectful of his customers.
Charges more than 400$ (Can) for the restauration of a pair of tweeters
And can be very easily distracted , from his work-in-progress ...
I waited more than 2 months for 2 Woofer coil replacements .
While he was sitting comfortably at his Florida Condo ,
while my woofers were still in his Work Shop in Nova scotia (Can)
And that's when he replies to his emails
Good luck with Chris
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