Focal 826 Tweeter Removal

Yes, just don't try to see how loud it can go! :forbiddn:

I also have Pioneer SC-75 and Marantz SR7005. Will they able to push my Focals? Pioneer is rated 4ohm. I don't see Marantz rated 4ohm. The reason I am asking , I was playing for last few hours and I am not impressed with Integra 9.9 Pre with Arcam p1000 combination with Focals. I want to try Marantz and Pioneer with Focals and I am really afraid.
 
Account Closed
Joined 2018
I also have Pioneer SC-75 and Marantz SR7005. Will they able to push my Focals? Pioneer is rated 4ohm. I don't see Marantz rated 4ohm. The reason I am asking , I was playing for last few hours and I am not impressed with Integra 9.9 Pre with Arcam p1000 combination with Focals. I want to try Marantz and Pioneer with Focals and I am really afraid.


Within reason, any solid state amplifier can drive any speaker made for home use.
The 4 ohms/8 ohms is relatively irrelivant, it's the specified power (watts) that is more important.
Know your speaker power requirements as suggested by the manufacturer, and use an amp within those ratings.
Very simple.
 
All this time there was a key to remove the tweeters? :rofl:
Yes, Mani himself actually referred to it in post #7, but we contributors failed to catch on! Instead of the key, two small screwdrivers can be used to rotate the tweeter counterclockwise to release its bayonet fitting, and that was what the photo in post #8 was trying to convey. Still, the thread has provided the opportunity for discussion and it's been a fun ride! :)

P.S. Focal seem well geared up when it comes to providing relacement tweeters, but I won't draw any conclusions from that!
 

Attachments

  • Remove Chrous Tweeter with the key.png
    Remove Chrous Tweeter with the key.png
    158.1 KB · Views: 121
  • IMG_20200207_163732285.jpg
    IMG_20200207_163732285.jpg
    253.7 KB · Views: 114
Hello manizkrishnan,

Sorry to resume this thread but I'm in the same your condition.

I would like to know, once that you have extracted the tweeter, what do you need to do for actually replace it?
Do you need to unsolder the old one and resolder the new one, or is it just a matter of unplug/replug the contacts?

Thank you!
 
Thanks, I was afraid about that.

Maybe it's just a stupid question or maybe it doesn't matter but, at this point I have a doubt.

Should not be better, then, cutting the connection cable of the old tweeter and soldering it together with the new one (so that there is a clean copper to copper contact), in place of soldering two already tinned contacts?
Practically, in the second case there will be a thin film of solder alloy between the contacts, while in the first case the solder alloy will just sorround the contacts.

Hope you can understand what I mean.
 
Should not be better, then, cutting the connection cable of the old tweeter and soldering it together with the new one (so that there is a clean copper to copper contact), in place of soldering two already tinned contacts?

Remove the existing wire from the old tweeter. Tin the end of it first ... press it into place, heat it up, add just a bit of new solder and it's good as new. In the end it's all one solid mass of metal...
 
Actually looking at this picture it looks that there is a connector at the end of the tweeter cable.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Jd4AAOSw~15eWauX/s-l400.jpg

So, apparently, I will have to remove the mid-range first for reaching the connector on the crossover.
This for sure would be a more clean work than resoldering the cable, but it requires more effort on dismounting and remounting the speakers back.

Does anyone of you know if the screws that hold the speakers (the mid-range in my case) needs to be fastened back with a specific tightening torque like for a engine crankcase?
 
Depends on whether your replacement tweeter comes pre-wired or not, but access to the crossover is indeed through the midrange aperture if required.

No specific torque. Use a hand screwdriver to nip up the screws sequentially, a little bit at a time, until resistance is felt. Do not force the screws beyond this point of resistance.
 
Hello manizkrishnan,

Sorry to resume this thread but I'm in the same your condition.

I would like to know, once that you have extracted the tweeter, what do you need to do for actually replace it?
Do you need to unsolder the old one and resolder the new one, or is it just a matter of unplug/replug the contacts?

Thank you!

Sorry for the delay. No soldering is needed. It is just a clip which will attach to existing wires.let me know if you need any help.
 
Wow amazed with number of ignorant people only comment by looking at size and appearance of the tweeter.many of them also claim they sound bad although even didn't see them forget about listening :D.
If the tweeter magnet is small it is bad/cheap? These people are used to with 20years old ferrit magnet tweeters with big magnet but they never know about neodymium magnets which is dozens time stronger with 1/4 size of ferrit magnets.
There's a good r&d behind those tweeters to align with mid range smoothly also to provide great sound stage, that's why it has concave membrane made of ultra light & durable materials. Amazing people just talk BS without knowing nothing.