What parameters are you using?
I can't reproduce your results using either Unibox or WinISD, I get to an F3 of around 32.2Hz using the specs from the Tang Band PDF and apparently some of the generated values are way off compared to yours.
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Eventhough it's not in my uploaded picture, I did that too. Didn't help.
Another question, maybe I want to use a slot instead of ports.
I remember reading that WinISD has trouble with that, as it assumes the end of the port(s) are in open space, as opposed to a slot that ends with 3 cabinet walls next to it.
Any tips on how to correctly calculate a slotted cabinet?
EDIT:
Here I read :
....that sounds like something someone pulled out of thin air to me? :-/
Another question, maybe I want to use a slot instead of ports.
I remember reading that WinISD has trouble with that, as it assumes the end of the port(s) are in open space, as opposed to a slot that ends with 3 cabinet walls next to it.
Any tips on how to correctly calculate a slotted cabinet?
EDIT:
Here I read :
....that sounds like something someone pulled out of thin air to me? :-/
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Note that Wolf has simmed a different version of the W6.
For the 1139SIF in Unibox, try 12L tuned to 40Hz with heavy stuffing, .2ohm resistance. A 5cm diameter port results in a port length of 21.79cm. Xmax and port resonances are acceptable well above 93dB which will be more than enough for your purposes. Now try 10L and look at the response and the port length. See what you can live with.
Note for the 1139SIF, if the TS parameters are accurate, you only need about 4L for a Qtc of .7 in a sealed box with heavy stuffing, which is a pretty typical alignment for sealed boxes. Given that musical content rarely goes below 40Hz and that you can easily get this result in a ported box, the only real reason to go sealed with dsp boost would be to meet an inflexible design criteria of a smaller cabinet size. But I might still go a little larger than 4L since a smaller box has the effect of limiting cone excursion which is what you will be trying to achieve with boost. Never having done this myself, I'm not sure what to recommend - 7 -10L?
It may also help you to define the maximum SPL you want these speakers for. No sense designing for 100dB if you will only play them at 80dB or so.
Any port shape will work more or less as long as they all have the same cross-sectional area. Just bang out some circle and rectangle area formulas to make the conversions.
For the 1139SIF in Unibox, try 12L tuned to 40Hz with heavy stuffing, .2ohm resistance. A 5cm diameter port results in a port length of 21.79cm. Xmax and port resonances are acceptable well above 93dB which will be more than enough for your purposes. Now try 10L and look at the response and the port length. See what you can live with.
Note for the 1139SIF, if the TS parameters are accurate, you only need about 4L for a Qtc of .7 in a sealed box with heavy stuffing, which is a pretty typical alignment for sealed boxes. Given that musical content rarely goes below 40Hz and that you can easily get this result in a ported box, the only real reason to go sealed with dsp boost would be to meet an inflexible design criteria of a smaller cabinet size. But I might still go a little larger than 4L since a smaller box has the effect of limiting cone excursion which is what you will be trying to achieve with boost. Never having done this myself, I'm not sure what to recommend - 7 -10L?
It may also help you to define the maximum SPL you want these speakers for. No sense designing for 100dB if you will only play them at 80dB or so.
Any port shape will work more or less as long as they all have the same cross-sectional area. Just bang out some circle and rectangle area formulas to make the conversions.
Sorry Wolf, your screen caps for Unibox labeled the W6 as an SG-442 so I wasn't sure what model you were using? Plus your xmax is set at 13mm instead of the published 11.5mm.
But you are right about the SI and SIF models - the only TS parameter that's different is the Fs, 35Hz vs 38Hz which makes only the smallest difference in the box sims. But that's not really enough to account for such a large difference for eg in your Standard Design Vb which is 33.1L whereas I'm getting 13.2L with published specs so I'm figuring you are using some different data to start off with.
However, Tang Band is kind of known for suspect specs, so I would easily trust Wolf or other experts who have actually used the driver for what works best. I've only used the W5 not the W6.
But you are right about the SI and SIF models - the only TS parameter that's different is the Fs, 35Hz vs 38Hz which makes only the smallest difference in the box sims. But that's not really enough to account for such a large difference for eg in your Standard Design Vb which is 33.1L whereas I'm getting 13.2L with published specs so I'm figuring you are using some different data to start off with.
However, Tang Band is kind of known for suspect specs, so I would easily trust Wolf or other experts who have actually used the driver for what works best. I've only used the W5 not the W6.
I would very much want and appreciate that!
I'm very keen to see the difference between actual measurement and the TB specs.
My parts have arrived from the US in the Netherlands, I should receive them any day now.
I think my first course of action will be to build a sealed cabinet, and then try one or more ported versions so I can measure and compare.
To power the speakers and perform crossover / filter / room correction duties, I've ordered:
- a pair of Sure Electronics AA-AB35281 3x200W Class D amps
- a pair of Dayton Audio DSPB-K DSP Kernel Boards plus rca expansion, and
- a programmer for the DSP boards.
I think I'll put the amplifiers and dsp in a single separate amplifier.
Now I'm looking for a power supply for the amps.
I'm wondering if the dual 36v 1000W version of this would be okay to use?
- a pair of Sure Electronics AA-AB35281 3x200W Class D amps
- a pair of Dayton Audio DSPB-K DSP Kernel Boards plus rca expansion, and
- a programmer for the DSP boards.
I think I'll put the amplifiers and dsp in a single separate amplifier.
Now I'm looking for a power supply for the amps.
I'm wondering if the dual 36v 1000W version of this would be okay to use?
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So while doing my research on the sub I'll start thinking about the mid. Again, this is all just thinking out loud here.
According to Parts Express the Tectonic driver works best in a sealed volume of 0.01 ft.³, or 283.16cm³.
I've decided to put it in a pentagonal pyramid shaped volume like was done in this project.
I've used this calculator : Pyramid Calculator
A bit of experimentation lead to 5 sides, triangle base length of 6cm, pyramid height of 13.8cm, slant angle of 73.342 resulting in 285cm3 volume.
To figure out the dimensions of the actual triangles, I've entered those values in the following calculator:
Pyramid Calculator - Dimensions Angles Volume - Animated Interactive Diagrams - Metric
and get a nice template to cut out in paper to test : https://i.imgur.com/XGShInr.png
I used this incircle calculator to find out the radius of the circle that fits into the dagger shape to make sure the Tectonic driver would fit:
https://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1223430310
Resulting circle radius for 5 sides with length 6cm is 4.12cm, which should be fine (driver radius is 3.4cm).
Thus if I'm not mistaken, I should be able to glue the pyramid to the back side of the baffle behind the Tectonics driver hole and get it airtight.
So for the workplan - I need to cut 5 triangles with side A=6cm, B and C = 14.7cm.
According to Parts Express the Tectonic driver works best in a sealed volume of 0.01 ft.³, or 283.16cm³.
I've decided to put it in a pentagonal pyramid shaped volume like was done in this project.
I've used this calculator : Pyramid Calculator
A bit of experimentation lead to 5 sides, triangle base length of 6cm, pyramid height of 13.8cm, slant angle of 73.342 resulting in 285cm3 volume.
To figure out the dimensions of the actual triangles, I've entered those values in the following calculator:
Pyramid Calculator - Dimensions Angles Volume - Animated Interactive Diagrams - Metric
and get a nice template to cut out in paper to test : https://i.imgur.com/XGShInr.png
I used this incircle calculator to find out the radius of the circle that fits into the dagger shape to make sure the Tectonic driver would fit:
https://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1223430310
Resulting circle radius for 5 sides with length 6cm is 4.12cm, which should be fine (driver radius is 3.4cm).
Thus if I'm not mistaken, I should be able to glue the pyramid to the back side of the baffle behind the Tectonics driver hole and get it airtight.
So for the workplan - I need to cut 5 triangles with side A=6cm, B and C = 14.7cm.
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If you want open (you need single supply)
RPS-400-36 MEAN WELL - Voedingseenheid: schakelende | 400W; 113/370VDC; 80/264VAC; OUT: 1 | TME - Elektronische Componenten
RPS-400-36 MEAN WELL - Voedingseenheid: schakelende | 400W; 113/370VDC; 80/264VAC; OUT: 1 | TME - Elektronische Componenten
Do I want open? I don't know..
My plan is to buy an aluminum amplifier case, slap these Sure amps in there and I need something to power 2 amplifiers.
In my TPA3116 amp I used a closed Meanwell 24v SMPS that I got from Marktplaats (
).Right now I'm just looking for the most budget friendly option to properly power these Sure amps...
I figured since it'll go into an "official" aluminum amp case, open would be fine.
Would this one be okay to power my 2 amps?
Edit:
Let me restate that I bought these amps overpowered. My WinISD sims show that at more than my probable max listening SPL I'll need 80Watts for the 1139sif driver.
So eventhough they are "3x200W" amps - which are probably "Chinese Watts" - I think a single 500W power supply would be moe than enough to power the 2 amps for all my drivers..
EPP-500-36 MEAN WELL - Voedingseenheid: schakelende | 500W; 127/370VDC; 90/264VAC; OUT: 1 | TME - Elektronische Componenten
I mean, if it's within budget I'd rather buy Meanwell than some random Chinese power supply.
Edit:
My WinISD sims show that at more than my usual listening SPL, I'd need 80W to drive the 1139sif. So I've bought these "3x200W" amps way overpowered, taking into account it's probably "Chinese Watts".
Hence I think a 500W power supply should be more than enough to power both the amps.
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Better pick one that is in stock
connexelectronics 300rs 38v would be enough too I guess, hifimediy or audiophonics probably sell those and ship from EU
Problem with big modern smps might be the amplifiers do not draw enough current and you get noises from smps trying to get into and out of powersaving mode. I think not using enough power is sooner a problem than PSU not being able to deliver the power you need for your amps/speakers
connexelectronics 300rs 38v would be enough too I guess, hifimediy or audiophonics probably sell those and ship from EU
Problem with big modern smps might be the amplifiers do not draw enough current and you get noises from smps trying to get into and out of powersaving mode. I think not using enough power is sooner a problem than PSU not being able to deliver the power you need for your amps/speakers
Better pick one that is in stock
connexelectronics 300rs 38v would be enough too I guess, hifimediy or audiophonics probably sell those and ship from EU
Problem with big modern smps might be the amplifiers do not draw enough current and you get noises from smps trying to get into and out of powersaving mode. I think not using enough power is sooner a problem than PSU not being able to deliver the power you need for your amps/speakers
Ouch, didn't know about that. Is there any way to figure out in advance whether or not that will be a problem with a certain power supply?
Just read idle consumption of the ampboards is around 10 watt, 20 watt for two, I think that is enough for the Meanwells
One could spec the ampboards as around 3x60 watt 8 ohm with little distortion, pick a supply, most of times power consumption will be close to idle I would guess. Pano's voltage test is nice test here on diyaudio.
One could spec the ampboards as around 3x60 watt 8 ohm with little distortion, pick a supply, most of times power consumption will be close to idle I would guess. Pano's voltage test is nice test here on diyaudio.
I've finally received my drivers.
I think I'll first design a proper baffle to suit them and build that - my first try at a faceted baffle - and when that's done design the cabinet to put them on / into.
I'm considering having a go at a curved cabinet as opposed to a standard box.
Creating the baffle as a separate unit gives me the option to try new stuff with the cabinet - if a design doesn't work out, I can slap the baffle on the next box design
I think I'll first design a proper baffle to suit them and build that - my first try at a faceted baffle - and when that's done design the cabinet to put them on / into.
I'm considering having a go at a curved cabinet as opposed to a standard box.
Creating the baffle as a separate unit gives me the option to try new stuff with the cabinet - if a design doesn't work out, I can slap the baffle on the next box design