Yesterday I downloaded the HFD for free,without registration and it works without any codes.
Perhaps you can find some Win emulator for your Mac? Or go to flea-market or borrow a friend's laptop? Be prepared to spend at least a weekend to find best settings. you must have a measurement system too, like REW and UMIK-1.
Perhaps you can find some Win emulator for your Mac? Or go to flea-market or borrow a friend's laptop? Be prepared to spend at least a weekend to find best settings. you must have a measurement system too, like REW and UMIK-1.
@Juhazi --
Thanks for the news on the software, it eases my mind.
Can you provide the link for the download? I wonder if I've gotten to an inactive link?
I figured I need to buy a UMIK-1. I built the earlier version of my speakers as a test platform for different drivers. The Hypex FA123's give me a great way to do that. A UMIK-1 seems like a good/necessary investment.
miniDSP has a UMIK-1: miniDSP UMIK-1
Any other recommendations?
Thanks for the news on the software, it eases my mind.
Can you provide the link for the download? I wonder if I've gotten to an inactive link?
I figured I need to buy a UMIK-1. I built the earlier version of my speakers as a test platform for different drivers. The Hypex FA123's give me a great way to do that. A UMIK-1 seems like a good/necessary investment.
miniDSP has a UMIK-1: miniDSP UMIK-1
Any other recommendations?
The link is in my post #13. You must enable cookies to download
Then read through the FA thread I linked! Lots of useful info and hints there!
Some practical info perhaps here too
SEAS MR18 3-way
Then read through the FA thread I linked! Lots of useful info and hints there!
Some practical info perhaps here too
SEAS MR18 3-way
Horny? (strike 4)
The latest "Trio15 Horn1" design uses and LOVEs a HORN mid-bass!
Investing some study time on 3-way speakers blending dipole woofers with a horn tweeter and a sealed midrange can get you great sound in your room. A LARGE horn with a coaxial compression driver is the next expensive leap of faith.
====================PAP website=
"All wrong. These perceptions were all wrong, obliterated by the experience of hearing the PureAudioProject Trio15 PAP Horn-1.
I have been pinching and kicking myself for the past several weeks as I have been romancing the Horn-1; pinching myself to see if this is not an illusion, that the experience is as magical as I’m hearing, and kicking myself because I have been a reviewer for more than 12 years and only now I’m relishing lower power/HE in a big way. The truth is that I likely would not have trod the low power/HE path had I not been engaged in the series of reviews of the Trio15 variants for PureAudioProject. I have several iterations with the Horn-1 to explore, but already the few configurations I have assembled would quality as most ardent audiophiles’ end game masterpiece.
New ! PAP-Horn1 Trio15 Speakers - PureAudioProject
========
========
WIKI
"The on axis, free space Directivity Factor for sound sources with several common free space radiation patterns are as follows: Monopole: DF = 1.0, Dipole: DF = 3, Cardioid: DF = 3, 90x90 Horn: DF=8.27. What this means is that if these three different sources are to radiate the same total acoustic power then if the monopole has an on axis intensity of 1.0 the dipole and cardioid will have an on axis intensity of 3.0 or 4.77 dB greater, and the horn will have an on axis intensity of 8.27 or 9.2 dB greater. Conversely, if the different sources are to have the same on axis intensity then the dipole and cardioid will radiate 1/3 the acoustic power of the monopole, and the horn 1/9 the acoustic power of the monopole. When studying room acoustics and reverberation this means that the "critical distance" from the speaker will be greater for a dipole or cardioid or horn than for a monopole. The "critical distance" is the distance at which direct and reflected sound are equal. The level of the reflected sound, above the modal region of the room, is usually considered constant and proportional to the total radiated power. Thus when sitting the same distance from a conventional speaker and a dipole/horn, the dipole/horn can potentially sound more detailed since at the position that ratio of direct to reflected sound is greater. "
=========
Both dipoles and horn designs control directivity to reduce early reflections from hard walls and floors. Draw your room floorplan and overlay Left+Right horn 80-degree H-polar patterns directed to the listener to see if early wall reflections can be reduced. A tweeter horn with a 40-degree vertical polar pattern will reduce early reflections off your hard floor and low ceiling.
The latest "Trio15 Horn1" design uses and LOVEs a HORN mid-bass!
Investing some study time on 3-way speakers blending dipole woofers with a horn tweeter and a sealed midrange can get you great sound in your room. A LARGE horn with a coaxial compression driver is the next expensive leap of faith.
====================PAP website=
"All wrong. These perceptions were all wrong, obliterated by the experience of hearing the PureAudioProject Trio15 PAP Horn-1.
I have been pinching and kicking myself for the past several weeks as I have been romancing the Horn-1; pinching myself to see if this is not an illusion, that the experience is as magical as I’m hearing, and kicking myself because I have been a reviewer for more than 12 years and only now I’m relishing lower power/HE in a big way. The truth is that I likely would not have trod the low power/HE path had I not been engaged in the series of reviews of the Trio15 variants for PureAudioProject. I have several iterations with the Horn-1 to explore, but already the few configurations I have assembled would quality as most ardent audiophiles’ end game masterpiece.
New ! PAP-Horn1 Trio15 Speakers - PureAudioProject
========
========
WIKI
"The on axis, free space Directivity Factor for sound sources with several common free space radiation patterns are as follows: Monopole: DF = 1.0, Dipole: DF = 3, Cardioid: DF = 3, 90x90 Horn: DF=8.27. What this means is that if these three different sources are to radiate the same total acoustic power then if the monopole has an on axis intensity of 1.0 the dipole and cardioid will have an on axis intensity of 3.0 or 4.77 dB greater, and the horn will have an on axis intensity of 8.27 or 9.2 dB greater. Conversely, if the different sources are to have the same on axis intensity then the dipole and cardioid will radiate 1/3 the acoustic power of the monopole, and the horn 1/9 the acoustic power of the monopole. When studying room acoustics and reverberation this means that the "critical distance" from the speaker will be greater for a dipole or cardioid or horn than for a monopole. The "critical distance" is the distance at which direct and reflected sound are equal. The level of the reflected sound, above the modal region of the room, is usually considered constant and proportional to the total radiated power. Thus when sitting the same distance from a conventional speaker and a dipole/horn, the dipole/horn can potentially sound more detailed since at the position that ratio of direct to reflected sound is greater. "
=========
Both dipoles and horn designs control directivity to reduce early reflections from hard walls and floors. Draw your room floorplan and overlay Left+Right horn 80-degree H-polar patterns directed to the listener to see if early wall reflections can be reduced. A tweeter horn with a 40-degree vertical polar pattern will reduce early reflections off your hard floor and low ceiling.
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Progress!
The Hypex Fusion FA123s arrived.
Amps mounted to the base of the open baffle speakers.
Hypex Filter Design software loaded to a "new" PC laptop.
"Master" amp and crossovers configured (these will need a bit of tuning).
With just one speaker playing and no room measurements yet, the project has begun to sound very promising!
Some background for a few more questions...
As I stated early in the thread, I use a Mac Pro as source for all digital music.
I currently connect the Mac Pro to the "Master" FA123 (just the first one I've configured) by a TOSLINK fiber optic cable.
Source to amps connections?
It appears that I can hook up the speakers by using a splitter on the end of the TOSLINK cable and then run two short TOSLINK cables from the splitter to each FA123.
Rather than that, does anyone know if I can go from the Mac Pro - TOSLINK - Master FA123 - S/PDIF - Slave FA123?
If they both work, does one have any advantage over the other?
Thanks to all.
The Hypex Fusion FA123s arrived.
Amps mounted to the base of the open baffle speakers.
Hypex Filter Design software loaded to a "new" PC laptop.
"Master" amp and crossovers configured (these will need a bit of tuning).
With just one speaker playing and no room measurements yet, the project has begun to sound very promising!
Some background for a few more questions...
As I stated early in the thread, I use a Mac Pro as source for all digital music.
I currently connect the Mac Pro to the "Master" FA123 (just the first one I've configured) by a TOSLINK fiber optic cable.
Source to amps connections?
It appears that I can hook up the speakers by using a splitter on the end of the TOSLINK cable and then run two short TOSLINK cables from the splitter to each FA123.
Rather than that, does anyone know if I can go from the Mac Pro - TOSLINK - Master FA123 - S/PDIF - Slave FA123?
If they both work, does one have any advantage over the other?
Thanks to all.
I've got both speakers up and running. No equalization, no time correction, and no room correction yet but they already sound every bit as good (if with slightly different strengths and weaknesses) as the previous configuration.
This has become fun!
To do this and control the volume of both speakers from the remote control, I had to set both amps as "Master". To adjust the volume of the speakers using the remote, one has to aim the remote right between the amps so that both pick up the IR signal.
Off center only one of the amps goes up or down in volume.
Hmmm...?
This works, at least the Hypex Manual says it works. I just haven't tried it yet ;-)
_____________
More to come...
This has become fun!
To do this and control the volume of both speakers from the remote control, I had to set both amps as "Master". To adjust the volume of the speakers using the remote, one has to aim the remote right between the amps so that both pick up the IR signal.
Off center only one of the amps goes up or down in volume.
Hmmm...?
This works, at least the Hypex Manual says it works. I just haven't tried it yet ;-)
_____________
More to come...
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