I agree that the STAC is a great tweeter, and not much beats it at its price point. I also really like the XT25TG30. Another you should add is the DX25BG60. You get a cast face, a double magnet, very low Fs and HD, and a very mild-mannered great sounding tweeter for $35 that can xover 1.5k+.
Later,
Wolf
Later,
Wolf
-to me the double ring's lack depth, and though clear on-axis - they do "dull" a little off-axis.
The STAC really hits its "stride" above 3.5 kHz (..sounding more than a little like a nice planar with better vertical dispersion). Below that it's still good, but not quite as "meaty/3d" as some of the better Morels (or other Dynaudio variations).
Yeah, the "D" Peerless and Scan-speak variations: good tweeters, BUT their best application is probably with a waveguide where with the right guide they load wonderfully broad-band.
If I was trying to do an inexpensive 2-way with around a 6" woofer, it would be with the STAC and the Dayton DSA175. Designed properly that combo. should give a very clear result.
The STAC really hits its "stride" above 3.5 kHz (..sounding more than a little like a nice planar with better vertical dispersion). Below that it's still good, but not quite as "meaty/3d" as some of the better Morels (or other Dynaudio variations).
Yeah, the "D" Peerless and Scan-speak variations: good tweeters, BUT their best application is probably with a waveguide where with the right guide they load wonderfully broad-band.
If I was trying to do an inexpensive 2-way with around a 6" woofer, it would be with the STAC and the Dayton DSA175. Designed properly that combo. should give a very clear result.
Any of the suggested domes are fine, just make the decision and start playing with the xover, which is way more important.
Here are 2 xovers > I'm still on learning process
1. Peerless 830875 and SB26STAC
2. Peerless 830875 and D2608-91300
Note: FRD/ZMA worked from 2 Pi specs chart using spltrace in vituixcad
Don't know how to convert to 4Pi. Want some explanation how to proceed.
I had less trouble working with the scanspeak tw.
There is still a peak with the P830875 spl at around 875 hz.
Your comments how to smooth the overall spl and get a better xover.
Lastly what should be your ultimate choice if you had to choose. tks
p.s left images with SB26STAC and right Scan D2608-91300
1. Peerless 830875 and SB26STAC
2. Peerless 830875 and D2608-91300
Note: FRD/ZMA worked from 2 Pi specs chart using spltrace in vituixcad
Don't know how to convert to 4Pi. Want some explanation how to proceed.
I had less trouble working with the scanspeak tw.
There is still a peak with the P830875 spl at around 875 hz.
Your comments how to smooth the overall spl and get a better xover.
Lastly what should be your ultimate choice if you had to choose. tks
p.s left images with SB26STAC and right Scan D2608-91300
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Sorry forgot to inchude the xovers . Here they are. Welcome improvements
Attachments
In VCad, you use the Diffraction module found in the tools menu.
Create your baffle using the dimension controls, then import your traced FRD in the field described "Half Space Response", play with driver positioning to get the smoothest result within practical constraints (make sure you don't move the driver outside the baffle for example!) then export - it'll save a set of multiple FRD's, one for each off axis angle.
It is these FRD's you use in the main crossover designer instead of your original trace.
You will end up completely re-doing your crossovers, but at least your first attempts give you useful practice.
HTH,
David.
Just a few thoughts:
It would be great to measure why 2 very similar (but different dome material) tweeter sounds so different and one is bad and the other is great. Both measures well, but the sound is greatly differ from each other (or not?).
Again, it would be great to measure what is "detail". Some say, detail is adequate high frequency reproduction, that would be all? Good spectral decay? Both tweeters have it, with ferrofluid or without. So what?
I prefer hard dome tweeters since they deliver transients better than soft domes. Why is that ? All energy from the voice coil should be transferred to the dome and all energy from the dome should be transferred to the air - in perfect world. With soft domes more energy is absorbed by the dome itself (same goes for ferrofluid in a gap) and hard domes are a bit better in that area. Most soft domes goes in to breakup at around 10kHz but since it is very mild breakup (low Q) and being high enough, it doesn't sound insulting. Hard domes are pistonic up to breakup point but when they get in to break up region, they don't do it subtly at all (high Q large peak). Notching that breakup in hard domes (no matter if it is out of our hearing range) is one option to tame the alu dome tweeter.
That doesn't mean that i can't enjoy soft dome tweeters as well. I'm listening XT25 variant of tweeter in a waveguide and i really like Morel and Dynaudio tweeters. I just didn't like the Seas 27TFFC in particular.
For comparison between tweeters with different dome materials i don't think there is a better reference that what Yevgeniy from HiFicompass did here:
BlieSMa T25A-6, T25B-6, T25D-6, T25S-6 | HiFiCompass
They share the same magnetic structure and faceplate, the differences being in dome material and geometry. Oh, and none of them have any ferrofluid in the gap. That stuff was needed maybe 10/15 years ago when people were trying to make 6dB/o electrical crossovers with large format midwoofers. FF damps the coil and makes the sound a bit murky but the tweeter lives to play another day. Now, with all software and online help and tutorials available, it is needed only for the ones that are listening very loud with tweeters being crossed very low. Once you put some juice in it, the tweeter with ferrofluid comes to life. I listen at lower volume most of the time and i know how to make a decent crossover that will not damage the tweeter so i don't need that stuff in magnetic gap.
That doesn't mean that i can't enjoy soft dome tweeters as well. I'm listening XT25 variant of tweeter in a waveguide and i really like Morel and Dynaudio tweeters. I just didn't like the Seas 27TFFC in particular.
For comparison between tweeters with different dome materials i don't think there is a better reference that what Yevgeniy from HiFicompass did here:
BlieSMa T25A-6, T25B-6, T25D-6, T25S-6 | HiFiCompass
They share the same magnetic structure and faceplate, the differences being in dome material and geometry. Oh, and none of them have any ferrofluid in the gap. That stuff was needed maybe 10/15 years ago when people were trying to make 6dB/o electrical crossovers with large format midwoofers. FF damps the coil and makes the sound a bit murky but the tweeter lives to play another day. Now, with all software and online help and tutorials available, it is needed only for the ones that are listening very loud with tweeters being crossed very low. Once you put some juice in it, the tweeter with ferrofluid comes to life. I listen at lower volume most of the time and i know how to make a decent crossover that will not damage the tweeter so i don't need that stuff in magnetic gap.
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Yes I agree with that. In our other speaker the JBL-HP8B has a titanium tweeter and the sound is very very airy and has huge detailed presentation without being harsh or edgy. Comparing with the soft dome tweeter, yes the titanium sounds better. Even if we think the whole crossover is only pure and old electrolyt caps. Funny 
Hi,
I understand all the tweeters have not the same patern, but please how will you rate these inexpensive drivers please for a passive simpliest XO as possible (2nd HP? 1st order?) for something between 3K5 hz and 4K hz ?
SB STAC (on the paper I like the recess around 4K, flat here is fatiguing to my hear)
SB ADC
Peereless brandnewTextrene (worths the little extra cost?)
Peereless XT25G
all the efficienty are ok, despite the mids I think could be 3" to 4" and 8 ohms... but as far they are minimum 88 db/2.83v it's ok (well I can forget the impedance flatness as a trade off)
Many thanks, hope not too much off topic
Edit my room is well damped and the sweet spot is longer distance than the triange base of the two speakers!
I understand all the tweeters have not the same patern, but please how will you rate these inexpensive drivers please for a passive simpliest XO as possible (2nd HP? 1st order?) for something between 3K5 hz and 4K hz ?
SB STAC (on the paper I like the recess around 4K, flat here is fatiguing to my hear)
SB ADC
Peereless brandnewTextrene (worths the little extra cost?)
Peereless XT25G
all the efficienty are ok, despite the mids I think could be 3" to 4" and 8 ohms... but as far they are minimum 88 db/2.83v it's ok (well I can forget the impedance flatness as a trade off)
Many thanks, hope not too much off topic
Edit my room is well damped and the sweet spot is longer distance than the triange base of the two speakers!
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Yes I agree with that. In our other speaker the JBL-HP8B has a titanium tweeter and the sound is very very airy and has huge detailed presentation without being harsh or edgy. Comparing with the soft dome tweeter, yes the titanium sounds better. Even if we think the whole crossover is only pure and old electrolyt caps. Funny
That is also a matter of preference. Some people find the hard domes fatiguing or overly detailed.
I have a friend that works as a salesman and spends most of the day in his car. He said to me once that after dealing with all sorts of people he comes home, sits in his chair and plays some music. I'll paraphrase him - i don't want to be held at the edge of my seat when i get home stressed like this, i want to relax and listen music without being distracted by too much details.
Zvu, thanks for the answer. My main loudspeaker is alum 1" dome and i'm ok with that : he is not fatiguing cause i notched -5db between 3k to 5 khz (-5db is in the midle), and no break ups below 20k...
looking for something cheap and minimalist with the passive parts though for this short list : less caps, resistors and coils, the better due to the price of the tweeter here.
i agree with the friend , just want a triangle, cymballs sounds like they are with the extra of power they can generate with dynamic behavior and the tweeter is good enough for the harmonics to help the uper bass driver to stay tight with a subjective fastness behavior : that's what I just waiting from a tweeter
looking for something cheap and minimalist with the passive parts though for this short list : less caps, resistors and coils, the better due to the price of the tweeter here.
i agree with the friend
, just want a triangle, cymballs sounds like they are with the extra of power they can generate with dynamic behavior and the tweeter is good enough for the harmonics to help the uper bass driver to stay tight with a subjective fastness behavior : that's what I just waiting from a tweeter
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@Zvu
I agree and I using a metal tweeter without ff, and replaced a cheaper (27TFFC) and a more expensive soft dome (SS Illuminator) tweeter.
However, earlier, I was told that ferrofluid should not be disadvantageous, because how detailed Dynaudio tweeters with ff are even at low volume and they are the best dome tweeters ever made and are also by soft material, not even hard.
I agree and I using a metal tweeter without ff, and replaced a cheaper (27TFFC) and a more expensive soft dome (SS Illuminator) tweeter.
However, earlier, I was told that ferrofluid should not be disadvantageous, because how detailed Dynaudio tweeters with ff are even at low volume and they are the best dome tweeters ever made and are also by soft material, not even hard.
If you like recessed at 3.5kHz, go for STAC. Here is an example of a three way with same drivers, same cabinet and different tweeter crossover. At upper the crossover is electrical 12dB/o and on lower it is 24dB/o. Both measure nice and linear but the sound is quite different.
No one can tell you how complicated the crossover might be for a particular driver. It is all in the hands of the one who designs the loudspeaker.