I'd have to say, no not really
I'd have to go on people's "say so" I have no real favorites. I am torn between
1. Using what I have (DALI300) for the TV/living room, and figure out something for my computer/playroom that may be easier to position, or hang, or ... something clever, so I get some proper sound past the screens.
2. Or hanging the DALI's here- I can't figure out what else to do with them. And then building something specific for the tv as originally asked for. (back to your question about 2 and 3 way..)
Realisticly, I actually spend more time at the computer listening than at the tv/living room. - So if I build something for this room, they better be good.
Again, thank you all... and my apologies for my gnarly brain.
Attached an example 2.5cuft cabinet for a 3-way with 22cm front baffle and 8" side woofer. Can you bi-amp?
SB26ADC-4 Tweeter
SB17NAC35-8 MidRange
SB23NACS45-8 woofer
========
Build stands for the DALI300 to raise them above the computer monitor.
Do not drill holes in the DALI300. Maybe screw plywood to the back of your desk with L + R speaker stands.
A man's speakers should exceed his hearing ... or what's a credit card good for?
SB26ADC-4 Tweeter
SB17NAC35-8 MidRange
SB23NACS45-8 woofer
========
Build stands for the DALI300 to raise them above the computer monitor.
Do not drill holes in the DALI300. Maybe screw plywood to the back of your desk with L + R speaker stands.
A man's speakers should exceed his hearing ... or what's a credit card good for?
Attachments
Other more experience builders can help you with a design but as far as room placement and looks are concerned you can do a lot with cardboard and tape to make a full sized mock-up and see how they would fit. I hang some speakers from the wall using bits left over from an IKEA kitchen rebuild. Super strong
Attachments
Phwoar thats still a big speaker... (tall and deep) - I'm fine with the side-woofer thing, and width. - Smaller version possible? I know, a bit of wife-factoring here.
Planet10 mentioning smaller woofers x2, but I'm guessing that doesn't magically lessen enclosure volume need?
Bi-amping... pretty sure I cant. (integrated amp)
No mounting the dali's... for risk of driving a screw into the crossover?
No. If the woofers are similar. Given how many woofers there are you shoud be able to pick one that fits the size you can afford.
But it will dramatically lower the load on the box so it does not to be near as heroic. We have built successful 2 x 10” subwoofers out of 15mm BB. Box can b lifted with one hand, with drivers it is near a 2-man lift.
And if you go sealed a linkwitz transform can be used to push response down, you have tons of power. i’d look at something like 8 x SDX10 or 12 in 4 woofer boxes (~60 litres each, althou i took mine down to 44 litres hich worked fine even without a transform. Different choices in Europe. I did a design for at least 1 big Scan driver.
dave
One last look at 3-way side mounted woofer cabinets.
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Hobby HiFi magazine has a side woofer design named "scan by side" which provides design and build information.
Scan By Side
The kit is delivered with the following drivers:
- a Scan Speak D2905/930000 tweeter
- a SB Acoustics SB17NAC35-4 mids driver
- a Scan Speak 26W/4534G00 woofer
size (HxWxD): 1075 x 230 x 380 mm
Kit without cabinet, price per speaker EUR 462,00
speaker kits | hifisound.de | Your online hifi specialist
======
My DiyAudio side woofer design is based upon Troels Gravensen's Illuminator Floorstander construction techniques. You will need to sketch/CAD you final dimensions before you cut wood.
1) Height 1060mm = 41.7" Width = 220mm = 8.7" Depth = 430mm = 17" Total Volume ~ 2.4cuft
2) Drivers:
SB26STCN-4 = 1" fabric dome tweeter.
SB17NAC35-8 = 6" aluminum midrange. Butt tweeter to midrange for shortest C-to-C separation,
SB23NACS45-8 = 8" aluminum woofer
3) To reduce cost, use average quality passive LRC parts, start with Bennic Bipolar capacitors for large(150-200uf) values. Research bi-amping options.
4) Includes 2db of baffle step to compensate for adjacent room openings
======
If you feel you must reduce the cabinet depth, I can calculate the new -F3 and port dimensions
-----
Hobby HiFi magazine has a side woofer design named "scan by side" which provides design and build information.
Scan By Side
The kit is delivered with the following drivers:
- a Scan Speak D2905/930000 tweeter
- a SB Acoustics SB17NAC35-4 mids driver
- a Scan Speak 26W/4534G00 woofer
size (HxWxD): 1075 x 230 x 380 mm
Kit without cabinet, price per speaker EUR 462,00
speaker kits | hifisound.de | Your online hifi specialist
======
My DiyAudio side woofer design is based upon Troels Gravensen's Illuminator Floorstander construction techniques. You will need to sketch/CAD you final dimensions before you cut wood.
1) Height 1060mm = 41.7" Width = 220mm = 8.7" Depth = 430mm = 17" Total Volume ~ 2.4cuft
2) Drivers:
SB26STCN-4 = 1" fabric dome tweeter.
SB17NAC35-8 = 6" aluminum midrange. Butt tweeter to midrange for shortest C-to-C separation,
SB23NACS45-8 = 8" aluminum woofer
3) To reduce cost, use average quality passive LRC parts, start with Bennic Bipolar capacitors for large(150-200uf) values. Research bi-amping options.
4) Includes 2db of baffle step to compensate for adjacent room openings
======
If you feel you must reduce the cabinet depth, I can calculate the new -F3 and port dimensions
Attachments
I did a bit of a mock-up with rulers and cardboard... - thanks for the suggestion Moondog55. And I have to say that my previous estimation of available space was a bit optimistic 
Linesource: Your suggestion is unfortunately still way too big, I really appretiate it though. - Once I saw a real mock-up it was pretty clear it wont work.
Not entirely sure what path to take now, I did however buy some lovely wood for the front bezel for when I do decide, cause why not impulsebuy!
Perhaps the kit mattes suggested is the best bet still, both for ease of first build, and size.
Thank you all again... and again..
Linesource: Your suggestion is unfortunately still way too big, I really appretiate it though. - Once I saw a real mock-up it was pretty clear it wont work.
Not entirely sure what path to take now, I did however buy some lovely wood for the front bezel for when I do decide, cause why not impulsebuy!
Perhaps the kit mattes suggested is the best bet still, both for ease of first build, and size.
Thank you all again... and again..
I did a bit of a mock-up with rulers and cardboard... - thanks for the suggestion Moondog55. And I have to say that my previous estimation of available space was a bit optimistic
Linesource: Your suggestion is unfortunately still way too big, I really appretiate it though. - Once I saw a real mock-up it was pretty clear it wont work.
Not entirely sure what path to take now, I did however buy some lovely wood for the front bezel for when I do decide, cause why not impulsebuy!
Perhaps the kit mattes suggested is the best bet still, both for ease of first build, and size.
Thank you all again... and again..
And, Katrine, possibly quite good for "small" money as well. If you buy a kit, go for the more expensive crossover parts, it will be worth it. The slanted enclosure might not be your thing, but its easily changed to more conservative proportions, with which you´ll gain an extra compartment at the bottom, perfect for the crossover.
If you decide to go that way, invest a few Kronors first and get the magazine!
All the best
Mattes
Build a 1600mm tall cabinet. Paint it the same color as your wall.
Height = 1600mm
Width = 220mm mid6" + tweet1"
Depth = 310mm woof8"
You might be interested in a speaker system I just built. My version does have an active crossover and EQ circuit that goes ahead of poweramps (Is tri-amp'd). It could have been done with passive crossovers but I'm perhaps foolishly picky, and know how to do the electronics real well. I've been building speaker systems since the 1970's, and this one has a small footprint.
Bobs 2019 Hi-Fi Speaker Project
Bobs 2019 Hi-Fi Speaker Project
Bobs 2019 Hi-Fi Speaker Project
Bobs 2019 Hi-Fi Speaker Project
Looks like a nice project - fits the OP's requirement for a tall, slim floor stander. The components are available in Europe also.
I use a similar design and I can say that the filter from bass is not OK. It will not sound good. You need a high shape. I use 13mH and 200uf to gnd and is still needed minimul 4-5mH after fot phase correction.
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